Engine keeps breaking motor mounts

[696969]

I have a small block 318. Nothing fancy, but has headers, duals, eddy carb and intake. Had the motor mounts replaced a year ago and now they're coming loose again under hard acceleration.

I understand that some folks chain or cable the engine to chassis (?) to restrain it further to prevent this. I hear some classic era Fords had the same problem in terms of the engine breaking away from mounts.

Has anyone experienced this problem and/or has a solution/tip in this case?

 

[tallhair]

Here's one idea. Drill and bolt the drivers side together like in this DC thread

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.msg984872.html#msg984872

 

[Propwash]

Had the same problem in a couple of dodge darts....Those 318's can get a feisty I guess. I used chains in both of them. Not show cars, didn't have a lot of money to spend, so the chains worked. Bolt in a motor mount sound like it would work well too! Otherwise you have other options like a solid mount, lock mounts or torque straps, if you want to spend a bit of money. I have a Dynamax mighty mount (locking) on the drivers side of a 700 Ft/lb TQ stroker that has yet to bust apart, even after a few pretty hard launches at the track.

Good luck

 

[696969]

Had the same problem in a couple of dodge darts....Those 318's can get a feisty I guess. I used chains in both of them. Not show cars, didn't have a lot of money to spend, so the chains worked. Bolt in a motor mount sound like it would work well too! Otherwise you have other options like a solid mount, lock mounts or torque straps, if you want to spend a bit of money. I have a Dynamax mighty mount (locking) on the drivers side of a 700 Ft/lb TQ stroker that has yet to bust apart, even after a few pretty hard launches at the track.

Good luck

Good call. I found this http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/66.72bBody.html and I have a feeling I'll be purchasing the torque strap from them. I think that the way the 318 and mounting locations were designed, they didn't take into account performance upgrades making the engine more squirrelly, if you will.

 

[Propwash]

One thing to mention on the torque straps, and i'm gonna play Switzerland/neutral here (being I have never had or have one), is a couple guys here have heard or had them them break off the forward block mount ear, and others (including drag racers) swear by them. Like I said, no experience with them myself, so take it with a grain of salt.

Best of luck which ever route you go 696969.

 

[clemul]

Have you thought about the poly locs..

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

 

[696969]

View attachment 161610

Have you thought about the poly locs..

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

i'd consider those, but holy cow! $175 for a pair!

 

[cr8crshr]

Worth the purchase price. I was going to use a pair but opted for the standard types with a torque strap from them. If done properly they will prevent the motor from over torquing to the left and ripping the rubber insulator. The only way one would be able to snap one of the motor mount ears is by using the wrong type bolts and home made gear as it is really next to impossible to rip the metal apart unless there is already a crack of weakened metallurgy all ready or the horse power is so high that it literally implodes the mounting ear.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I run those from Schumacher, best damn money I've ever spent. One thing to take note on is that the factory used a small bolt, 3/8 I think, and the Schumacher mounts use a 1/2 bolt. Look at any factory set up and watch the engine rock when goosed, that doesn't happen with the Schumacher poly locks. Just putting that out there.

 

[sleepr64]

I've used hardware store aluminum turnbuckles with good results

 

[coloradodave]

Homemade from internally threaded aluminum and a couple of heim joints. Grade 8 hardware. This is my third car with a similar set-up and never a problem... I did run solid mounts on my race cars, but they transmitted too much vibration for my liking on my street car. To each his own...

 

[67Satty]

Here's one idea. Drill and bolt the drivers side together like in this DC thread

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.msg984872.html#msg984872

This is what I did, cheap, simple and effective.

 

[747mopar]

Homemade from internally threaded aluminum and a couple of heim joints. Grade 8 hardware. This is my third car with a similar set-up and never a problem... I did run solid mounts on my race cars, but they transmitted too much vibration for my liking on my street car. To each his own...

I like this idea, I built a shaker hood car with tight scoop to hood clearance and liked this because you can run the softer motor mounts keeping the vibes down and also control the motor movement. Schumacher makes a kit like this, I also like they're poly locks but have been told they rattle the car a bit more than the factory mounts???

 

[q-ship]

I have a Dynamax mighty mount (locking) on the drivers side of a 700 Ft/lb TQ stroker that has yet to bust apart, even after a few pretty hard launches at the track.

Good luck

Without question the best option for a street car.

All the others, including bolting/chaining, are pretty much the same as solids. Some like the solid/polly/bolted/chained feel, but if you want a near stock, smooth feel, the Mighty Mounts are the only option.

The reason that over the counter mounts today are so delicate is that they are made offshore, of poor quality rubber. The 60's stuff would hold up for a reasonable time, but new stuff won't even handle a stock 318, as you have discovered.

Mighty Mounts are one of those rare aftermarket parts that work perfectly, lasts close to forever, and is reasonably priced also.

 

[Dennis H]

Schumaker Interlockers on the big block. The best. Smooth and problem free for ten years.

 

[RS23VOA]

I bought the Shumaker mounts at Carlilse for $150 a couple years ago. Cheap insurance to protect an airgrabber hood and a 956 radiator.

 

[conv67bdere]

i'd consider those, but holy cow! $175 for a pair!

As the saying goes . . . you get what you pay for . . . and if you keep breaking them, how long before you have that much invested in broken trash ? ?

Sorry - just my $0.02 worth . . . and that's all it probably worth too . . . ( smile )

 

[tallhair]

Here's another option. Anyone tried these?

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/maheduenmo.html

Bolt-through design locks up under acceleration, prevents blow-outs - provides the durability of a solid mount without sacrificing the smooth ride of rubber.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Had the same problem in a couple of dodge darts....Those 318's can get a feisty I guess. I used chains in both of them. Not show cars, didn't have a lot of money to spend, so the chains worked. Bolt in a motor mount sound like it would work well too! Otherwise you have other options like a solid mount, lock mounts or torque straps, if you want to spend a bit of money. I have a Dynamax mighty mount (locking) on the drivers side of a 700 Ft/lb TQ stroker that has yet to bust apart, even after a few pretty hard launches at the track.

Good luck

Without question the best option for a street car.

All the others, including bolting/chaining, are pretty much the same as solids. Some like the solid/polly/bolted/chained feel, but if you want a near stock, smooth feel, the Mighty Mounts are the only option.

The reason that over the counter mounts today are so delicate is that they are made offshore, of poor quality rubber. The 60's stuff would hold up for a reasonable time, but new stuff won't even handle a stock 318, as you have discovered.

Mighty Mounts are one of those rare aftermarket parts that work perfectly, lasts close to forever, and is reasonably priced also.

Any link to the mighty mounts? I did a google search and came up with nada!

 

[snakeoil24]

The sandwich Motor mounts are made in India and all suck. Get a few Clevis ends and make a Torque strap. If you want to get fancy add a small Shock absorber from a tractor and your going to have less problems.