Engine swap mount help

[win32exe]

Hey Team, seems my motor mounts are getting tired, too much movement when under torque, so i want to replace them with solids motor mounts.

Can someone tell what i have in there now, its a 67 belvedere ii, someone put a 360 in it, so its been modded

Questions:
Is what you see in the pics an "engine swap" motor mount set?
Are there any differences between the driver\passenger sides, the metal that bolts to the engine or rubber part in between?
Is it ok to use wood and a jack on the oil pan or do i use to bare part towards the rear of the engine? I'm told there is a bare spot.
Will solid motor mounts drop right in with the engine swap mount? in the new pic below

Moroso Solid Motor Mounts Steel Chrysler Mopar Car 66-74 V8
Part # 62520

• All Chrysler V8 440 383 340 318 except Hemi
• (.187" Thick)
• Fits 1966-1972 Coronet, Super Bee, Belvedere, Polara, Road Runner
• Fits: Satellite, GTX, Fury & 1970-1974 Barracuda, Challenger
• Replaces OEM #2536121

 

[win32exe]

also, can the swap be done from the engine bay or do i need to get under the car, other than to raise the engine?

 

[Cranky]

The 340/360 engines use different block brackets than the 273/318's do but the 273/318 brackets can be used with spacers or washers....but not sure what's going on with the passenger side but the brackets shouldn't have to come off....just the old biscuits and getting at them will be both from the bottom and the top. Been a long time since doing that job. You will have to lift the engine up some to get things out and back in. And if it were mine, I would use the solid 'replacement' on the driver's side only and stick in a new rubber mount on the passenger side. What I did on my 95 Dakota 20 years ago was to install a chain instead of replacing the broken mount. Yeah, it's just a V6 but I've pulled trailers with it too and the truck has had 1600 lbs in it more than once and the chain works fine and pretty much can't be seen. If the engine isn't producing a ton of power, a 1/8" chain is more than enough.

 

[win32exe]

The 340/360 engines use different block brackets than the 273/318's do but the 273/318 brackets can be used with spacers or washers....but not sure what's going on with the passenger side but the brackets shouldn't have to come off....just the old biscuits and getting at them will be both from the bottom and the top. Been a long time since doing that job. You will have to lift the engine up some to get things out and back in. And if it were mine, I would use the solid 'replacement' on the driver's side only and stick in a new rubber mount on the passenger side. What I did on my 95 Dakota 20 years ago was to install a chain instead of replacing the broken mount. Yeah, it's just a V6 but I've pulled trailers with it too and the truck has had 1600 lbs in it more than once and the chain works fine and pretty much can't be seen. If the engine isn't producing a ton of power, a 1/8" chain is more than enough.

Thx for the info, why solid mounts on the drivers side only? because that's the side with torque when in drive, and the rubber on the passengers side will provide some anti vibration?

 

[Cranky]

Thx for the info, why solid mounts on the drivers side only? because that's the side with torque when in drive, and the rubber on the passengers side will provide some anti vibration?

It also will help alleviate the strain on the trans mount that both solid mounts will impart on the trans mount. One mistake some make is to use solid on all 3 points. Never do that unless you like broken transmission cases/tail shafts.

 

[win32exe]

It also will help alleviate the strain on the trans mount that both solid mounts will impart on the trans mount. One mistake some make is to use solid on all 3 points. Never do that unless you like broken transmission cases/tail shafts.

great point, what did you mean when you said you were not sure what's going on, on the passenger side, does something look odd?

 

[win32exe]

great point, what did you mean when you said you were not sure what's going on, on the passenger side, does something look odd?

should i swap the transmission mount at the time?

 

[Cranky]

great point, what did you mean when you said you were not sure what's going on, on the passenger side, does something look odd?

Wasn't able to really get a good look. Just might be the design of the mount.

should i swap the transmission mount at the time?

At least check it to see if it's in good shape. If it looks old and starting to get some cracks in it, may as well change it.

 

[win32exe]

Wasn't able to really get a good look. Just might be the design of the mount.

At least check it to see if it's in good shape. If it looks old and starting to get some cracks in it, may as well change it.

Thx again, ill take a look.

 

[win32exe]

Thx again, ill take a look.

any tips on the best way to raise the engine? i know i have loosen or remove the throttle cable, kickdown linkage, trany mount, i have to remove my fan cuz i have a handmade shroud and its kinda close, also i am replacing all of the exhaust, so i am removing the exhaust manifolds too, that should help with clearance

 

[beanhead]

any tips on the best way to raise the engine? i know i have loosen or remove the throttle cable, kickdown linkage, trany mount, i have to remove my fan cuz i have a handmade shroud and its kinda close, also i am replacing all of the exhaust, so i am removing the exhaust manifolds too, that should help with clearance

A floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan, taking care that it extends beyond the edges so as not to dent anything.
I've done I-don't-know-how-many B-body mount/bracket swaps through the years with engine in car, and all that was ever needed was a slight raising of the engine to take the pressure off the bolts. Never unhooked any cables/linkages or worried about the fan or trans mount, etc...there's enough wiggle in things to let it happen and we're talking only 16ths of an inch of movement to let the bolts spin out.
It's really not that bad a job. You can do this!
If you were closer, I'd come help and we'd nail it in like 30 minutes!

 

[win32exe]

A floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan, taking care that it extends beyond the edges so as not to dent anything.
I've done I-don't-know-how-many B-body mount/bracket swaps through the years with engine in car, and all that was ever needed was a slight raising of the engine to take the pressure off the bolts. Never unhooked any cables/linkages or worried about the fan or trans mount, etc...there's enough wiggle in things to let it happen and we're talking only 16ths of an inch of movement to let the bolts spin out.
It's really not that bad a job. You can do this!
If you were closer, I'd come help and we'd nail it in like 30 minutes!

thank you for you vote of confidence!! i will keep you posted, thx!

 

[win32exe]

thank you for you vote of confidence!! i will keep you posted, thx!

ok, i swapped out the motor mount, confirmed, you can raise the engine with a wood under the oil pan, making sure its a little bigger than the pan, pan doesn't crush.

One has to raise the engine 4 or 5 inches, to get the mount and isolator out as one piece.

Did it in my driveway by myself, the old drivers side isolator was split in half, i replaced it with a solid mount, no more split isolators!

i did have to remove the transmission mount bottom nut, and the throttle linkage, also loosened the exhaust manifold to pipe hardware for safety sake.

its all good now!

thank you!!