Engine Torque Strap

[Mike Gaines]

Hi Mike, never had any problems, for years same set up motor making close to 825 hp at the flywheel. strap is a 1/2" stainless steel with two hyme joints (fancy turnbuckle.)
street/ strip driven motor don't budge. i would preload the strap slightly since its sitting on the rubber mount

View attachment 374871

DO you have solid steel mtr mts or standard ruber motor mounts with ur torque strap?

 

[Budnicks]

The motor/engine front plate will transfer torque better
& to the outsides of the frame rails instead of the K member &
thru the mounting bolts & various hardware
like a solid Moroso type mounts or a quality torque strap in a bracket car...

I never ran rubber mounts even in a bracket car thou...
I never really noticed any real vibrations difference either,
it's funny how much crap you'll put up with thou...

IMO with a 9 - 10 second {or slower} types of combos
I personally don't see any big advantage to go with a
motor/engine front plate "elephant ears"
{it will costs more & have to either mill stuff &/or deal with more pulley alignment issues etc.,
albeit gives you places to mount stuff too, great if your pulling the engine in & out a lot too}

A Full on dedicated racecar {especially tube chassis} use the "elephant ears"
mostly electric water-pump & fans too, lightweight alum pieces etc.
1 belt for an alt. maybe or an oil-pump or fuel pump etc.
That's how real racecars are set up, they usually have a mid plate too...

a fast street/strip or bracket-car the solid mounts will do & work just fine...

as a few others have stated above

 

[Mike Gaines]

The motor/engine front plate will transfer torque better
& to the outsides of the frame rails instead of the K member &
thru the mounting bolts & various hardware
like a solid Moroso type mounts or a quality torque strap in a bracket car...

I never ran rubber mounts even in a bracket car thou...
I never really noticed any real vibrations difference either,
it's funny how much crap you'll put up with thou...

IMO with a 9 - 10 second {or slower} types of combos
I personally don't see any big advantage to go with a
motor/engine front plate "elephant ears"
{it will costs more & have to either mill stuff &/or deal with more pulley alignment issues etc.,
albeit gives you places to mount stuff too, great if your pulling the engine in & out a lot too}

A Full on dedicated racecar {especially tube chassis} use the "elephant ears"
mostly electric water-pump & fans too, lightweight alum pieces etc.
1 belt for an alt. maybe or an oil-pump or fuel pump etc.
That's how real racecars are set up, they usually have a mid plate too...

a fast street/strip or bracket-car the solid mounts will do & work just fine...

as a few others have stated above

The reason that I need the motor to be stationary aND not "move" is because I want to install a sealed carburetor airscoop...

 

[Budnicks]

The reason that I need the motor to be stationary aND not "move" is because I want to install a sealed carburetor airscoop...

I'd go with the std. solid engine mounts
& use a rubber seal from the carb plate, to the underside of the hood
a little movement won't hurt you that way, it may torque a bit still,
but still redirect the air thru the carb for a cooler denser air/ram air effect...

If the whole front end is excessively torqueing/twisting/lifting ?
than you need to add forward bars from the cage to stiffen stuff up,
the chassis, even with a "elephant ears"
it wont stop the whole front end twisting...
It may even make it worse, think about it,
because the leverage points are father "out to the outsides of the frame",
it doesn't hurt you if you have forward bars,
it helps to transfer torque better thru the whole chassis/cage that way,
use the torque to your advantage...

It's wasted motion/energy that should be going thru the chassis
& getting to the ground thru your suspension otherwise...

Anyway

good luck

 

[MOPOWER871]

DO you have solid steel mtr mts or standard ruber motor mounts with ur torque strap?

Hi Mike , running standard rubber mounts only thing I did to them was run a stainless steel countersunk 1/4 20"bolt though them with a nylock nut on the motor side of the mount to keep them from separating. but the strap took care of the movement.

 

[pwDave]

Mike, the very set-up that you describe has been in my car for 40 plus yrs, 426 hemi, 4 speed, 5.38 gear, side step the clutch @ 6000rpm, 10.5 M+H slicks, man, you talk about **** happening quick, shift @ 8300,(yes you read that right 8300), never had any kind of a snafu with my tourque strap. A large alumiman turn buckle!! looks woefully inadiquite, but held that hemi fine. 'bout a week ago installed a 509 rb in the same car, guess what I put in for a strap? yea, that same turn buckle thats been there for 40 yrs. Dave.

 

[gtxracer]

I have used a motor plate for many years after using the Moroso solid mounts prior. The motor plate takes the worry out and race cars do vibrate a bit. Go with the plate!

 

[Frustration]

Here are some photos of our '63 N/SS car. It runs 10.90's at 3600 lbs. We've run our's this way for 20+ years...no problems.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Here are some photos of our '63 N/SS car. It runs 10.90's at 3600 lbs. We've run our's this way for 20+ years...no problems. View attachment 396205 View attachment 396206 View attachment 396207

Thanks to everyone....perfect info...Mike

 

[oldbee]

Mike still have my Moroso solid mtr. mounts in after 30+ years. I can't even remember what the car felt like 40 yrs. ago. I am afraid I'm going to have to find a way to quit following you on the forum; can't afford to try to follow you on my income! Gotta stop the "juices" from flowing, LOL!!Course mine never went as fast as your's.Jeff

 

[69 GTX]

Mike here's the one I made for my car. Came off motor mount bolt. I used a rubber sway bar bushing to kill some of the vibration but in your set up you could a poly one to avoid squeaks.

 

[RT K_line]

I have had the same solid mount on the driver side for 10+ years with no issue of movement or vibration. That's all you need IMO.