Engine Will Not Stay Running

[QueBlaq]

There's a lot of great information in this forum. I apologize if this question has been addressed already.
I have a '69 RR that I just had a 440 put into. She has been running fine until last week when she just cut off on me. Luckily, I was on a street where I could coast to a turning lane.
When I turn the key to the 'ON' position and hold it in a "sweet spot" she stays running. When I let go of the key she turns off. I thought it may have been a bad ignition switch so I replaced it. Same issue. I checked the bulkhead connector and noticed a loose wire. Not it. There is a wire that has a 'fresh' end revealed that I honestly do not recall seeing in such a state before. I do not want to just go stuffing it into the connector and risk messing something else up. The wiring diagram is quite busy for me. Attaching a photo below.
Also, could the ignition key cylinder be bad since the key will not stay engaged in the 'ON' position?

Please excuse the wiring mess.

I would love to resolve the issue in order to take her out for a spin over the long weekend.

 

[Red63440]

Do you have a ballast resistor on your firewall, if so it sounds like it’s bad. The ballast resistor changes the voltage for starting and running which is why it will run with the key in the start position and not the run position. I would also put that wire back together and maybe see if you can clean up your wiring.

 

[QueBlaq]

Do you have a ballast resistor on your firewall, if so it sounds like it’s bad. The ballast resistor changes the voltage for starting and running which is why it will run with the key in the start position and not the run position. I would also put that wire back together and maybe see if you can clean up your wiring.

Awesome advice! I will check this evening after work. Is this type of resistor found in a local auto parts (i.e. NAPA) store, or do I need to go ahead and make an online order?
I want to disconnect the battery and re-connect the wire on the left. My concern is blowing something and push me back to square one. I will need to study the bulkhead connector diagram to see what goes where to see if that leads me to a "Well that isn't presently working. So..." moment. Who knows, that may resolve my left turn signal issue (secondary concern).
The wire on the right marked with the 'X' has been that way since I have own the car. Not sure of its purpose.
My next big investment will be to have the entire car rewired to get rid of the visible/non-visible messes.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Red63440]

NAPA may carry it if not they can be found at many on line outlets. If your engine harness is really chopped up a replacement can be purchased.

Good luck!

 

[Red63440]

Awesome advice! I will check this evening after work. Is this type of resistor found in a local auto parts (i.e. NAPA) store, or do I need to go ahead and make an online order?
I want to disconnect the battery and re-connect the wire on the left. My concern is blowing something and push me back to square one. I will need to study the bulkhead connector diagram to see what goes where to see if that leads me to a "Well that isn't presently working. So..." moment. Who knows, that may resolve my left turn signal issue (secondary concern).
The wire on the right marked with the 'X' has been that way since I have own the car. Not sure of its purpose.
My next big investment will be to have the entire car rewired to get rid of the visible/non-visible messes.

Thanks for the input!

If if were me I would want to know where that wire goes to before connecting it back up, it may have been disconnected under the dash.

 

[QueBlaq]

Roger that. I will check the wiring diagram. There are a couple of hanging wires that I need to resolve.

 

[Ranger16]

Also, could the ignition key cylinder be bad since the key will not stay engaged in the 'ON' position?

That sounds more likely to me than the ballast resistor.

 

[QueBlaq]

At this point in the season, I am testing every angle. Thanks!

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

I have temporarily bypassed the resistor to see if will run but only for a test.
AutoZone sells ballast resistors.
Buy 2 and keep a spare.
It will come in handy.

 

[QueBlaq]

I have temporarily bypassed the resistor to see if will run but only for a test.
AutoZone sells ballast resistors.
Buy 2 and keep a spare.
It will come in handy.

Good point!

 

[Ron H]

Hope it is as simple as a BR. I had the same hassle in my ride and ruled out the BR and ignition switch. BUT, after considerable time I found the ignition wire at the BH was making a poor connection evidenced by some heat damage. In my case I had a new engine harness in. The harness wasn't giving a tight fit so it would vibrate down just a tad causing immediate motor die. Lift the harness up and a go...until the next time. The BH in my car was in lousy shape prodding me to install a new one. Well go figure! I still had hassles. It was within the harness itself. The prior heating caused the ignition wire to become loose in the harness itself...so pulled that out and replaced the connector (it was for chit...cheap harness). Got that all tight and been all good since.

 

[440beep]

Unsure if you have the Mopar electronic ignition setup, but if you do, here's some reference material addressing the ballast resistor and the symptoms you are dealing with. Also, that loose wire, with the X, in your photograph near the starter relay, wonder if it is this extra wire that the MP starter relay comes with (which can just be cut off, looks to be an additional grounding wire).

 

[QueBlaq]

Unsure if you have the Mopar electronic ignition setup, but if you do, here's some reference material addressing the ballast resistor and the symptoms you are dealing with. Also, that loose wire, with the X, in your photograph near the starter relay, wonder if it is this extra wire that the MP starter relay comes with (which can just be cut off, looks to be an additional grounding wire).

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Yeah, I am seeing that it is a collectively agreement from all on this thread to have backups to the backups when it comes to parts prone to failure.

I do not have the electronic setup. However, I will take a line from the provided info, "Defective components cannot be repaired, but must be replaced." I am going to update any and every firewall component that I can, and have extra on deck for when I decide to journey 50+ miles to car shows, meet-ups, etc.

 

[QueBlaq]

Hope it is as simple as a BR. I had the same hassle in my ride and ruled out the BR and ignition switch. BUT, after considerable time I found the ignition wire at the BH was making a poor connection evidenced by some heat damage. In my case I had a new engine harness in. The harness wasn't giving a tight fit so it would vibrate down just a tad causing immediate motor die. Lift the harness up and a go...until the next time. The BH in my car was in lousy shape prodding me to install a new one. Well go figure! I still had hassles. It was within the harness itself. The prior heating caused the ignition wire to become loose in the harness itself...so pulled that out and replaced the connector (it was for chit...cheap harness). Got that all tight and been all good since.

Do you now have some type of heat barrier in place to help shield the engine harness from impeding heat?

I am going to start replacing components. Knowing if there are specific products to look for or knowing how to protect them from heat would be good info to have.

 

[Ron H]

Do you now have some type of heat barrier in place to help shield the engine harness from impeding heat?

I am going to start replacing components. Knowing if there are specific products to look for or knowing how to protect them from heat would be good info to have.

I didn't add any heat barriers there, the BH is high up on the firewall. The heat/damage I mentioned was due to a poor male/female connection at the BH. I'm surprised the ignition wire wasn't a heavier gauge wire from ma mopar. But they didn't make cars to last half a century, lol.

 

[kbfallon]

Awesome advice! I will check this evening after work. Is this type of resistor found in a local auto parts (i.e. NAPA) store, or do I need to go ahead and make an online order?
I want to disconnect the battery and re-connect the wire on the left. My concern is blowing something and push me back to square one. I will need to study the bulkhead connector diagram to see what goes where to see if that leads me to a "Well that isn't presently working. So..." moment. Who knows, that may resolve my left turn signal issue (secondary concern).
The wire on the right marked with the 'X' has been that way since I have own the car. Not sure of its purpose.
My next big investment will be to have the entire car rewired to get rid of the visible/non-visible messes.

Thanks for the input!

This reminds me of a Cuda i had awhile back and put off the wiring clean up and smelled something burning and then smoke from under the dash.......got the car stopped as fast as i could and found a wire smoking that went into the main harness and recall my heart beating like a big bass drum. Luckily it went out with the power to it off. Lesson learned.