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Exhaust Manifold removal

Poster should just drive it like it is as it takes a skill set and out of the box thinking to solve it. Ultimately the motor most likely has to come out.
 
I do not believe that there is anything to get ahold of with a socket. Looks like that is what is left of the picture in post #29.
 
What would be the possibility of using a small hole saw to cut the nut off the stud? Use an angle drill or maybe a long extension through a gap or hole in the inner fender. Similar to using a hole saw to remove the swage from front hub lug bolts when replacing front drums. A little outside the box maybe, just another idea.
 
this is a tough one, keep us updated. It would still require lifting the engine for clearance, but I would try an end mill or Blair cutter I’ll try to find a pic. I guess everyone agrees you will have to sacrifice the stud.

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Engine has to come up , unbolt the trans, the linkage and convertor, lines ect and support trans.
Radiator and fan out. Batt, unhooked, mount bolts out,
Get that sucker up to eye level then use a hole saw with the same Inside dia. As the stud.
If you need to thin the hole saw down a bit.
Or go with dad's bee and grab the piece of pipe, tombstone and a 6010 stick.
 
I'm trying to remove my exhaust manifolds to send them out for ceramic coating. How do I remove the 2 bolts that are in the water jacket holes on the manifold?
Is there a special tool or is it a 9/16" socket grinded down to fit in the opening?
Many thanks
It looks more like a piece of tubing than it does a sleeve nut.

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Exhaust manifold sleeve nut A.jpg
 
I remember doing a few ball-buster jobs that weren't worth it. Afterwards, turning away those same type of jobs. This would be one of them.
 
I like the idea of the hole saw. Get one that the inner diameter just fits over a 3/8" bolt. Stick it down the hole and work slowly. I've cut swedged wheel studs this way. It worked very well.
Doug
 
I like the idea of the hole saw. Get one that the inner diameter just fits over a 3/8" bolt. Stick it down the hole and work slowly. I've cut swedged wheel studs this way. It worked very well.
Doug
Would be nice if the pic was a bit clearer. I know it's hard for some cameras to focus down a hole, but it seems to me that there is some hex shape to that fuzziness down there to what if that's a header bolt?!

Another possibility, still based on fuzzy pic what if there is no nut and it's just rusted tight on the stud?
 
Yeah, I agree with the above post, looks like a hex to me to... Like the stud was removed and a bolt was used... Either grind a socket down to fit or use a sleeve to hold a drill bit on center and drill the head off then when the manifold is gone grab the rest of the bolt & back it out...
 
I would have already purchased and installed a new manifold by now! No, I don’t always let patience run my actions!
As has already been mentioned the drivers side manifold is off a 73-74 anyway... No chance I'd throw $$$ at it....
 
You do know that the casting numbers for HP manifolds are the same for 71-74, only dif is the date on them.

Mark
 
You do know that the casting numbers for HP manifolds are the same for 71-74, only dif is the date on them.

Mark
The butt ugly late model manifold being used on the O/P's 67...

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The casting number and date code off the manifold..

MVC-102S.JPG


The cleaner looking early manifold that would be more period correct on the O/P's 67

MVC-108S.JPG


And the casting number/date code for that...

MVC-110S.JPG


FWIW I have a set of those with an early 67 date code...
 
yea I would cut that bitch off and get the correct manifolds
 
sorry I was unable to respond as my wife had heart surgery and I was unavailable for awhile. But no further development since my last post. The studs in the 3 holes are definitely nuts. Here are some pics that I took. I purchased a 14mm 12 pt thin wall socket and it was too big. The hole is approx .650" and the nuts are 9/16". I can't seem to find a thin socket which the od is .650" or smaller. Any further help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

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