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extremely cold blooded

adk-roadrunner

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So my 73 roadrunner with a 318 is extremely cold blooded and takes forever to warm up I can let it sit and run for 20 minutes and it stays in the cold zone on the gauge. The problem is until it warms up it runs crappy it stutters and tries to die on acceleration from a stop it just seems to not want to take the fuel. Once it is warm it runs good besides the fact that it seems to run pretty rich the exhaust is very strong smelling. What do you guys think.
 
Any ideas I've never seen a car this cold blooded and its getting into the 20s and 30s at night up here in the Adirondacks.
 
The temp gague on my 73 318 gets to about halfway between the first mark and the "C".
If it goes any farther, it's actually running hot. It does almost make it to the "C" if the A/C is on and I'm in traffic.

Do you have the standard dash? What does the temp indicator show?

Do you have a thermostat installed? Is it stuck open?
Is the heat block-off thing in the pass side exhaust manifold free and opening?

That's all I can think of.
 
Yup, stuck stat, or a 160 degree which is bad in cold weather. Heat riser valve stuck open (preferable to being stuck closed, but still...) will delay choke opening on all but electric choke stats. And YY, you do mean "H" don't ya?
 
Can you give us some specifics on the build? Compression, cam specs, type of intake, all that kinda stuff?

If you have an intake manifold that blocks the heat crossover, that could be one issue. A lot of times, a cold natured engine is one that runs lean. You seem to debink that theory right off the bat, but still carburetor type and size would help. Also sometimes, an ultra lean condition can actually make the carburetor go the other way to try and compensate. Without a little more info, it's a tough call.
 
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im betting the upper hose is ice cold and the lower hose is hot as hell. thermostat i would say
 
No, the "C".

If it gets anywhere near the middle of the guage, I'd better have already pulled over and shut down.

It likes to run where the blue line is, unless I am in heavy traffic, or have the A/C on, or both.
Car is super dependable, starts every time, runs great, no throttle lag or bog, etc.
I am, however chasing something more than 13.5 MPG (up from 11 when I got it)
 

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I think I would adjust that gauge to run more centralized when at operating temp.
 
Will look if I ever take it apart.

Didn't know you could do that, thanks.
 
It is a completely stock with 318 with stock 2 barrel when mine is at a good normal operating temp it runs in the low mid range on the gauge just past that first line out of the c range. I have a new thermostat I think its a 190 I'll put it in today and see what happens.
 
It is a completely stock with 318 with stock 2 barrel when mine is at a good normal operating temp it runs in the low mid range on the gauge just past that first line out of the c range. I have a new thermostat I think its a 190 I'll put it in today and see what happens.

test it in a pot of boiling water , ask me why ....lol

1 day, 3 thermostats, all brand new , only one worked.
 
Stock intake manifolds are notorious for plugging up full of carbon and blowby oil. If you pull the intake there are two twist thread rivets that hold the plate over the cavity under the carb. Probably 50% of the time this is the problem. If the heater blows warm air before it begins to run good I,d bet this is the problem. If the water flows strong in the radiator right away the stat may be stuck open. Stuck closed is a completely different ser of problems,like pegging gauge too quickly.
 
So my 73 roadrunner with a 318 is extremely cold blooded and takes forever to warm up I can let it sit and run for 20 minutes and it stays in the cold zone on the gauge. The problem is until it warms up it runs crappy it stutters and tries to die on acceleration from a stop it just seems to not want to take the fuel. Once it is warm it runs good besides the fact that it seems to run pretty rich the exhaust is very strong smelling. What do you guys think.

Reading this again are you sure the chokes closing. Any chance someone adjusted the carb really rich to compensate for no choke? Do you have to pump the hell out of it when its cold to get it to start. Check the plugs. If they are black maybe its a too rich condition. Float adjustment incorrect maybe.
 
is the choke working?with air cleaner out of the way and car cold does it shut when you actuate the throttle one time?if it does,tap with your finger,it should be pretty tight and not all floppy.
 
Replaced thermostat will wait till tomorrow to give it a try. As far as the choke goes should it be fully.open once the engine warms up.
 
Cold Running

I used to go to Lake George in the late 70's during the Summer ..Warm days turned into cold nights...What you and your car need is a vacation to Sunny Florida that will cure the cold running issues for you..
:sunny:

Replaced thermostat will wait till tomorrow to give it a try. As far as the choke goes should it be fully.open once the engine warms up.
 
So when I looked at the choke this is with it not running at all today it was almost closed after after working throttle it closed completely and seems the only way it will open is if the unit mounted down in the intake does it. I'm guessing this must be some type of thermostat that opens the choke once.the.engine is up to temp. I will have to check this when i start the car this evening. With aftermarket intake and aftermarket carbs what is used to control choke function.
 
So when I looked at the choke this is with it not running at all today it was almost closed after after working throttle it closed completely and seems the only way it will open is if the unit mounted down in the intake does it. I'm guessing this must be some type of thermostat that opens the choke once.the.engine is up to temp. I will have to check this when i start the car this evening. With aftermarket intake and aftermarket carbs what is used to control choke function.
A lot use an electric choke that activates by switched power.
 
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