F*cked up 8-3/4 rear end.

[__Larsson____]

Okey, about 1,5 year ago i sent my diff to a guy 400km away that i had heard did good jobs on rear ends...... somethings still wrong. the gears had rust on them, like rust holes =S Sooo i have been lookin at Dr Diff for some new bearing kitt, new ring and pinion.

so i wondered if this kit on Dr Diff with the options i selected is the correct about the carrier/suregrip type? I know its a 742 housing and 8-3/4

 

[Dajkzo]

Hi,

Email DrDiff/Cass. He is excellent at answering questions.

 

[__Larsson____]

Hi,

Email DrDiff/Cass. He is excellent at answering questions.

Thanks! Will do!

 

[khryslerkid]

It's hard to see your screen shot.

Here's the same link. If it's a clutch suregrip, click on that one. Click on N/A then click on Timkin bearings.

You can email or call him with any questions to be sure. He's great to deal with!

Should look like this if yours is the clutch suregrip. I see '67 on your ring gear, that should be a 1967 if it's still original.

https://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-bearing-rebuild-kit.html

 

[Fran Blacker]

That kit pictured has a crush sleeve. 742 housings no crush sleeve and carrier bearing could be for a cone type S/G.

Dajkzo said call.

 

[khryslerkid]

That kit pictured has a crush sleeve. 742 housings no crush sleeve and carrier bearing could be for a cone type S/G.

Dajkzo said call.

I think thats his generic pic he uses on all his kits. It has the 742 option.

 

[__Larsson____]

It's hard to see your screen shot.

Here's the same link. If it's a clutch suregrip, click on that one. Click on N/A then click on Timkin bearings.

You can email or call him with any questions to be sure. He's great to deal with!

Should look like this if yours is the clutch suregrip. I see '67 on your ring gear, that should be a 1967 if it's still original.
View attachment 792054


https://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-bearing-rebuild-kit.html

How to tell if its a cone or clutch?

 

[khryslerkid]

How to tell if its a cone or clutch?
View attachment 792062

That's a clutch.

 

[__Larsson____]

That kit pictured has a crush sleeve. 742 housings no crush sleeve and carrier bearing could be for a cone type S/G.

Dajkzo said call.

How can i tell if its a cone o clutch? I think its a clutch

 

[__Larsson____]

That's a clutch.

You sure?

 

[Crackedback]

It's a clutch style sure grip.

Hard to find a better vendor than Cass. He can get you what you need with an email and some pics if you are unsure.

Khryslerkid has the set up on the webiste right from what I see in your pics and description.

 

[33 IMP]

That is definately a clutch sure grip.
Clutch style suregrips are rebuildable and adjustable for tightness, therefore more desired and valuable than cone type, which are generally considered not rebuildable, though it definately has been done.
I agree, Dr Diff is the much preferred source for parts and info for our mopar rear ends.

 

[khryslerkid]

You sure?

Here is a cone type. See the springs.

 

[Crackedback]

Clutch

Cone

A couple of ways to identify that are easy.
Clutch, the barrel/housing of the carrier is a somewhat consistent diameter, the cone steps down.
Clutch has no springs
Bolts that hold the two halves together enter from opposite sides. The clutch has bolts holding it together entering opposite side of ring gear. (knew it was a clutch from the first pic in your post) Cone has the bolts entering same side as ring gear, you'll see the ring gear bolt heads and another set of bolts on a smaller diameter/circumference.

Cone bolt halves

 

[__Larsson____]

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help! =D

 

[slepr1]

Wow great info here!

 

[Sahara]

Yup, Dr. Diff.
I’m in the wilds of far northern Canada. The good doctor set me up with a top quality rebuild kit for my diff. Top quality parts, top quality service, great price. Zero hassle.

 

[R413]

The cone bolt heads are on the same side as ring gear bolts. The clutch bolt heads are on the opposite sides as ring gear bolts.

Housing #489 is the only one with a crush sleeve. All the others have a spacer, but it doesn’t crush, you change shims to adjust bearing preload.