Firewall wiring questions

[BamaCharger66]

I meant LOWER RIGHT

 

[ruffcut]

Yes, that stud is either a ground if you have a manual trans or neutral switch if automatic

 

[BamaCharger66]

I’m getting 12 volts to the firewall stud…. The thickest wire that comes out of the plastic square harness was cooked and crusty. So, that’s why I’m not powering the accessories. And again, I see a fuse panel but not sure that’s my issue…
Thoughts?

 

[BamaCharger66]

I can jump my starter with a screwdriver through the starter relay. I turn key with test light on the yellow ignition wire, nothing. Then I tried investigating the amp gauge by shoehorning my 47 year old carcass upside down to try testing the red and black wires with a test light. Couldn’t see/reach them. As I was getting out, 3/4 interior lights came on. Played around for a few more minutes and managed to get both front turn signals lights to come on (solid no blink) with the turn signal stalk. Before ending my late night, the two front interior lights cut off and stayed off…… Key won’t turn motor over BUT the key switch works because it had to be in start position for the turn signals to kick on. I also see the amp gauge drop when I turn the key to start… So I think my amp gauge is my main issue. I’ll get back after it tomorrow.

 

[BamaCharger66]

So someone pointed out to me, if I have any life inside the car, it is not the amp meter.
I have both headlights (on bright) and all 6 tail lights. I’m back down to one of four interior lights. Heater blower doesn’t work. Wiper motor doesn’t work. Cig lighter either. Most importantly, I cannot spin the motor over with the key. But the key switch at least has some connection as I’m able to get solid turn signal (right and left). I’ll run down the flasher. That should easy.

So now I’m facing shorts and grounding issues, yes/no? I bought a power probe this morning. Love it. It is how I determined grounding issues for my tail lights.

 

[RemCharger]

This may fall on deaf ears but run a hot wire from your new starter relay post straight to your ammeter. Sounds like your bulk head main feed connection is toast.
Oh, and a suitable fusible link inline

 

[AR67GTX]

If you decide to replace your crusty bulkhead connector in lieu of complete rewiring, do not order from Classic Industries. The one I got was apparently some Chinese casting that was junk. Instead try one from Kramer Mopar parts. It was an exact replica of the original - except for the melted area.

 

[BamaCharger66]

What is the pigtail hanging off of the fused link wire? Where does it go?

 

[RemCharger]

What is the pigtail hanging off of the fused link wire? Where does it go?

View attachment 1707416

That should feed the horn relay.

 

[BamaCharger66]

That should feed the horn relay.

Thank you!

 

[WileE]

Not for nothing, but with all your trials and tribulations with your rusty/crusty bulkhead connector and wiring, I would seriously consider a replacement of all. Electrical failures, or worse, may be looming ( pun intended ).

 

[AR67GTX]

Yeah, I would tend to agree with total replacement. If you do, be sure to save all the accessory and optional wire harnesses, some of which plug into the back of the fuse box and some may connect to main harness plugs. A lot of them are not reproduced so inspect them closely and repair as needed.

I just replaced the bulkhead connector on my 67 because the original harness is in good shape, never butchered and everything works. But I had a melted alternator lead on my 66 and I just ended up replacing all of the engine bay, interior and forward light harness, reusing only the accessory harnesses and tail harness.

 

[69_A12_6BBL]

Trying to figure out wiring on my ‘66 Charger with its ‘65 413 that I just installed. My other ‘66 Charger had an obvious bolt that my battery’s pos cable terminated to to ultimately power the car’s ignition and dash/lights/horns/etc.
I don’t see the same type termination point on this ‘66. Where’s that post/bolt?

View attachment 1706091

The.Relay youre pointing to, should have a Bolt where the mess is. A nut secures Pos batt cable, voltage turns around there into Bulkhead

 

[eldubb440]

I opened up a visibly good starter relay once, and the inside was basically gone (rust)