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first rebuild/restoration

cadeedmiston

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Oct 23, 2024
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tennessee
Hello,
I recently bought a 1972 coronet w/340 4bbl. I've been restoring it as my first real project car, and its come down to the ignition wiring for it to run and I have no spark whatsoever. Honestly don't know how to wire much of anything. Ill attach my current wiring for reference. The car has no wires other than what is pictured as I'm just trying to run the engine.
I've replaced
coil pack
distributor
ballast resistor
ecu (electronic control unit)
spark plugs
battery (has 12v)

As of tonight
I do not have the factory connector for the ecu or the voltage regulator and have improvised connectors. I have tested all connections via multimeter and all the connections have continuity.
I also sanded and prepped all grounding points so they are bare steel on steel.
The coil is receiving a constant 12v once I connect the battery and the opposite end of the coil wire has the same voltage
The starter turns the engine over and has no issue the starter is a double hot starter
Nothing is too hot or smoking
I have fuel/air
I did have a kill switch wired but removed it to reduce potential loss in continuity

I'm not concerned with how pretty the wiring is, lights, or anything that does not pertain to the essentials for the engine to run properly.
The carb does have an electronic choke but i have not wired it. The sparkplug wires are plugged in properly I didn't include them in the diagram to save space, and I apologize for the crude diagram. The only wire I have not installed in the third terminal on the alternator the the battery to charge. I didn't think it would have any impact on just running the engine. But will be installed once the engine runs.
I just don't have anyone around me that has wired a classic Mopar nor the skill to solve the issue myself. If anyone could help I would greatly appreciate any and all tips/fixes/diagrams to solve the issue.
Many thanks.

IMG_20241023_195630298.jpg


coronet wires.png
 
Welcome Cadeed. Looking at the image I would say start with connecting the battery. :lol:
Your diagram looks good from my house and far better than the crap I draw up. Sorry I can't help much but I'm sure the gurus on here will help you sort it out in no time.
 
"The coil is receiving a constant 12v once I connect the battery and the opposite end of the coil wire has the same voltage"

Double check ECU wiring. When the ECU is connected and grounded correctly it should be trying to ground the ignition (-) negative terminal when powered, but not running.
This will cause the voltage at the coil (+) positive to drop lower than battery voltage through the ballast resistor.

The distributor pickup wires to ECU should be twisted for noise rejection.

Alternator output connect to battery, regulator blue ignition power wire to battery through ignition switch (when you have one.)

I would use the starter neutral safety relay switch to trigger the starter just to make sure car is in neutral when cranking the engine.
 
You should be looking into the ballast resistor and how its wired. You show only 2 wires going to the ballast resistor. One from the ECU and the other going out to the coil. You should have a run wire and a start wire there on the ballast resistor as well.

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So I tried your first diagram because I'm getting rid of the starter relay, and I have a 4 pin ECU. I still have no spark. I don't know if it's the switch I bought tonight but I don't understand why it's not sparking. I can get some pictures tomorrow of all the connections if need be.
You should be looking into the ballast resistor and how its wired. You show only 2 wires going to the ballast resistor. One from the ECU and the other going out to the coil. You should have a run wire and a start wire there on the ballast resistor as well.

mopar_4pin_ign-jpg.1715240699


Or


Page10-1.jpg
 
Is there a reason for not getting new firewall forward harnesses? It's all plug and play.
 
I'm broke. And their like $500
....I get it....but, man oh man....I'd invest in a fresh harness before trying to improvise. Best investment in these old cars is a stock harness.
 
I would check the reluctor gap in the distributor and the polarity on the pickup coil to ECU.
With electronic ignition you can plug in a loose distributor and spin it with your fingers to verify if you have spark.

Also put a fuse on that power wire to the coil and ECU before something bad happens.

See if you can find a couple plugs similar this for the pickup coil wiring:
1730207135849.png
 
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