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First Runs of 2014

Today was my first time at the track since 2005 before tearing car down for paint and body ect., I didn't run so well and too excited just spun the tires mostly. I tried to leave @3k rpm spun and wouldn't hook ran high 14. left around 2500 feathered throttle and ran low 14. left again @ 2500 but didn't mash the throttle down and went 13.79. was told had to have helmet. good thing I brought mine! One thing with a helmet I noticed that it seemed to calm me down and focus more on the lights and track. I have mild 440/727 and 294s out back. all in all the kiddo and I had a great time even drove 50 miles to the track and drove home!
my best time.
rt. .514
60 ft. 2.21
330. 5.85
1/8. 8.86
1/8 mph. 82.03mph
1/4. 13.69
1/4 mph 96.61
 
the RPM heads are worth about 50-70hp done right {something like 70 lbs too}, over stock iron replacements & more if ported correctly, used with the right camshaft... the weight off the nose is a good idea too, less weight, better reaction times, better shock response, better weight transfer, better/quicker cooling & braking too, less wear & tear when weight is reduced... It's a win-win removing weight from the front of the car... move the battery to the trunk also {get a lightweight racing battery if fund allow}, if you haven't already... weight saving anywhere is good for the power to weight ratio, as long as you don't compromise structure & strength, you still will have the same HP with a lighter car, just means more power to weight ratio... hood, bumpers & brackets, doors, trunk lid, side glass to Lexan, front fenders, rims, driveshaft, replace anything cast iron or steel with aluminum or fiberglass, like heads, acc. brackets, water pump housing & radiator, nut's & bolts even, body panels etc... even stuff like titanium or aluminum bolts here & there, can make a difference you can do a few at a time, just be aware of when you change parts, not to use heavy crap if it's not needed for strength, but you don't have to go crazy, some of the smaller nuts, bolts & washers are relatively cheap, to go to aluminum or titanium components... also remove carpeting, insulation, sound deadening, undercoating, stock interior, back seat, crap in the trunk etc.... replace using lighter materials, light racing seats aluminum panels etc. or just remove altogether, when going to the track... spend some time with a few various sized hole saws or drill bits, in areas that are NOT structural or in plain site, that could be lightened... there's always places you can go lighter... good luck, have fun

Fiberglass bumper, fiberglass hood, and moving the battery to the trunk are definitely in the plans. Full interior will have to stay because I like to go to cruise nights with the whole family of five.

I'm talking to an guy that is kind of an old-time legend in SoCal in regards to porting iron big block Mopar heads (from the era before readily available aftermarket aluminum heads). He's saying he can do me up a set of 906s that will outflow Stealths for less than the cost of Stealths, so I'm tempted to go that direction. He's been around forever and is well-known with testimonials from lots of local racers, so I trust him.

I'd be giving up closed chambers/quench and the weight savings of aluminum heads and I'd be taking the chance that the iron heads could crack someday but I'd be saving considerable money over the cost of aluminum heads plus the additional cost to have them gone through and prepped to the same level and with springs matched to my cam, good hardware and a good valve job.
 
went to the track yesterday with a buddy of mine. I was able to pick up a little more than a 10th by leaving at 1k rpm. Still spinning, slicks will be here soon (should have already been here) I was much more focused too. Best part had a great time!

rt. .5287
60 ft. .2.16
330. 5.78
1/8. 8.78
1/8mph. 82.25
1/4. 13.56
1/4mph. 100.36
 
went to the track yesterday with a buddy of mine. I was able to pick up a little more than a 10th by leaving at 1k rpm. Still spinning, slicks will be here soon (should have already been here) I was much more focused too. Best part had a great time!

rt. .5287
60 ft. .2.16
330. 5.78
1/8. 8.78
1/8mph. 82.25
1/4. 13.56
1/4mph. 100.36

Getting a little better traction will help for sure... I see your driving a ways to the track, probably like them freeway gears, but them 2.94 gears are killing any decent chance at a low et., unless your making gobs of HP/TQ... IMO having fun is what it's all about, with a little friendly competition, bettering you car & as long as you like what your doing & your satisfied, then the world is a much better place for it... Happy Happy Happy... Good Luck & Have fun !!
 
Thanks Budnicks! Do you know how much a stock 8 3/4 u joint will take before it will break?
 
I've never broke one, but I keep on-top of maintenance, don't wait for stuff to break, don't penny pinch, by the best parts I can afford & use... I had a 68 RR 3520lbs on CalTrac & 315 Drag Radials 750+HP go thru a 2790 universals on a 742 case/ring & pinion ran it for years, put about 100 passes on it the last year I had it, the guy who bought it still uses it & it's still going strong, it also had a back braced housing, Mark Williams axles, Richmond 3.73, 3.91 & 4.30:1 Gears at different times, even a 300 shot of N20 for some test & tune sessions with the 3.73:1's, but that's really pushing it I'm sure... I wouldn't suggest doing it... But if everything is set up properly they can live "pretty well", the 1350 U-strap type universals & yoke are much stronger {so is the Dana 60}, but the 8.750" aren't really the strongest, but they can take quite allot of abuse, but when you start adding slicks or drag radials, good old "murphy's law" will always come into play, what can go wrong will & the weak link will be found... Good axles, good bearing, good gears properly set up, good quality hardware & parts will always help, not a place to skimp... Some lower rear gears {higher numerically} will help allot too, with torque multiplication & getting the car moving easier initially, with less breakages... IMHFO if you spend a bunch of $$$ on a 8.750" your $$$ is better spent on going to a "Dana 60 they're nearly Bullet Proof"
 
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