First start with new cam/ heads won't stay running

[Don Frelier]

There is also 12V at the distributer. Ignition on or off.

There shouldn't be something is wrong.

 

[turbine68rt]

If it’s the ballast resister it will shut off as soon as you release the key from star to run. If it continues to run for a bit after releasing the key and takes a few seconds to die, it’s not the ballast resister.

Correct, which is why I suggested trying a different resistor to rule that out since the op says "it starts but dies right away". Markrr doesn't agree.
Since we're not there, we don't know exactly how long or short of a time it runs after releasing the key.

 

[Myasylum]

It dies right after the key is released. It just starts, release key... Dies.

 

[Fran Blacker]

As has been said bad resistor probably. Jump the resistor temporarily and try starting.

 

[Don Frelier]

He

As has been said bad resistor probably. Jump the resistor temporarily and try starting.

Already tried a new one.

Seems like you have no run feed from the bulkhead connector. Despite what your voltage readings indicate. Can't explain that one.

Check the engine wiring harness to the bulkhead.
Inspect all the terminals and cavities they snap into.

I would pull the coil wire off the distributor tower hold 1/4" from a ground. With key in run position jump the starter relay and observe the spark.
Should be blue/white and crisp. You only need to see a couple sparks

 

[Myasylum]

When you say "jump the starter relay" you mean to turn it over? I'm trying to avoid that. What a bad time for this to happen.

 

[Don Frelier]

You only need to see a couple sparks.
If you're really worried then pull the distributor and spin the shaft.
With points you will need to ground it.
But I don't think it's necessary.
You need to get spark in run position.

 

[Myasylum]

You know I always thought I knew stuff about cars, so I took on this challenge. Only to two
Realize I know nothing and probably shouldn't have started this. It doesn't help these are 50 year old wires and a rats nest.
However I found this wire disconnected and it's yellow...

 

[Don Frelier]

I think you need an engine wiring harness.
I can't help you with that over the internet.
That's a mess

 

[Myasylum]

Well... that was it! It shockingly started! But now it idled for about 30 seconds and I went to ramp up the RPMs to 2000 and it started squealing at me! So now what's that about? It sounds like the belt but idk?! So I shut it down.
What would be squealing?

 

[RemCharger]

Hopefully belt, did you have oil pressure?

 

[Myasylum]

The belt is tight. I primed it with 60lbs of oil pressure, but it wasn't even running long enough for me to check. It runs nice though

 

[Gold Rush]

Believe it or not, the belt can be too tight. My '74 SE would squeal like crazy until I had the alternator off once and when I put it back on accidently found the tension sweet spot.

 

[Myasylum]

Ok... an update. I didn't want to start it up again, I was just freaking out. I looked over the alternator and even though the belt was tight, a bolt was missing on the bottom bracket (whoops!) I installed the bolt and tighten it back up. I started it again, and no noise! So I got it up to 2000 RPM for 20 minutes, and per Lunati instructions brought it up to 3500 RPM. That's when the engine was getting hot! REAL hot! I know aluminum heads can warp very easy but I was so close to the end. I was using the stock heat gauge and it was at the first line of being hot. So I brought it down slowly to 1000 RPM, and it shut down. Which was fine... It made the 30 minute break in. I was still worried about the heads warping and how the engine just quit on it's own at 1000RPM , So I waited an hour... and restarted it. It was fine. There is a transmission leak around the shifter linkage which sucks but considering everything I've been through I'll take it. I'm going to drain the oil today and put in some VR1. See what happens next!

The valvetrain does seem noisy like a sewing machine, but from what I read that is fairly normal with aluminum heads.

 

[4speed68rt]

Glad you got it going. Have patience and make sure everything is hooked up and tightened up before you fire it up the first time, or the next time.

 

[Myasylum]

Do I have to still baby this cam for a few hundred miles, or since it's broke in I can let it rip?

 

[sam dupont]

Now you need to break in the rings. There are others more knowledgable who can advise you on that

 

[Myasylum]

The bottom end is original. With who knows how many miles. Should be interesting.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

When I worked at the local Gulf station in the late 70's they rebuilt engines all the time and half the mechanics said after break-in to drive it like you stole it and the other half said baby it for 500 miles. Never say a problem with either way.
The oldest mechanic Lester told my to drive it like you drive normally, If you haul *** all the time then break it in that way and if you drive like an old lady then break it in that way.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

The bottom end is original. With who knows how many miles. Should be interesting.

Well then the rings are already seated then. You may be rebuilding the bottom end soon though.