FiTech

[DAVID SWEET]

Hoping someone with experience with the FiTech system can help. I've been in contact with the Fitech support people but progress is painfully slow. I've spent the last 2 weeks with little success.

Fitech Go EFI 4 600 HP system.
Timing Control via Fitech. MSD Pro billet with an MSD 6A ignition.
440 Mopar, Cam is a Comp Cam 21-225-4, 110 lobe separation, 240 lift at .050 Intake, 246 lift at .050 exhaust, total lift is .507 Intake and .51 Exhaust.
Compression reported at about 10.5:1

The engine has run with an Edelbrock carb and Mopar electronic ignition. No internal work has been done since it last ran.

Base timing is set at 8 BTDC with an idle setting on the controller of 18 BTDC.
I've checked and verified voltage to the Fitech and MSD units during cranking and run at +12V.
Fitech controller shows that I'm getting a tach signal and I've had the engine running twice but only for short periods. Lots of cranking and controller changes in between runs.

I've tried cam settings 2 and 3 with no noticeable changes.

The engine acts as if it wants to start, noticeable cylinder firing but won't catch and run. Partial throttle seems best but only early on in the cranking process. If it cranks for a while the firing drops off regardless of throttle location.

I've increased the cranking fuel values at 65F and 170F at the advice of the Fitech reps. It was during the changing of these values, +10 each time that I got the car to run for about 1 to 2 minutes. It then died and it hasn't started again.

I've slowly increased the crank fuel and afterstart fuel settings at 65F and 170F until they were maxed out with no noticeable changes in firing.

The unit did post P0505 IAC fault codes on 3 occasions now and Bryce at Fitech is supposed to be sending me a new IAC. Hoping that's it but wanted to see if anyone out there had any other ideas or experience.

Thanks

 

[1967coronet440]

Refer to the manual for exact specs but engine must crank at a certain speed for fitech to engage and send fuel to the cylinders.

 

[coloradodave]

David,
When you set your base timing did you, did you use an adjustable rotor and 'phase' it? At a minimum, set the 8* timing mark at the TDC marker, on the compression stroke and see if the rotor is pointing 'right at' the #1 tower on the distributor cap.
Yes, the battery needs to be fully charged.
Do you get a prime fuel shot when you turn the key to "on", not start? With the air filter off can you see the fuel shooting into the venturis?
Do you have a tach that shows where the redline is set when you turn the key to "on"?
Answers to these questions will help diagnose the problem. Also, pull a couple of plugs and see if they're wet.

 

[Lets Roll]

Is your battery good? Low voltage can do some crazy things with some aftermarket electronics.

 

[coloradodave]

I guess the OP dropped off the face of the earth. End of problem...

 

[451Mopar]

I'd suspect rotor phasing too?

Anyone know what the power off battery draw is on the FiTech?
I went to start my car today after is sat for a few months and the battery was dead?
Put a good battery in and it fired up fine. Just curious if anyone measured the amount of current use when the key is off?
Also, would it make a difference if the controller is connected or disconnected?

 

[coloradodave]

I'd suspect rotor phasing too?

Anyone know what the power off battery draw is on the FiTech?
I went to start my car today after is sat for a few months and the battery was dead?
Put a good battery in and it fired up fine. Just curious if anyone measured the amount of current use when the key is off?
Also, would it make a difference if the controller is connected or disconnected?

From FiTech:

Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro
January 6, 2017
"It constantly draws power even in sleep mode though it is a vary low draw. To stop the draw just disconnect the handheld. It is a tuner and was never thought to be a permanent install."