Flameless wrist pin install

[3sloppydogs]

I have new pistons for the 383 that goes back in Ruby and was going to take the rods and stuff to a machine shop for the install. I have done wrist pins before but I am not a fan of using a torch or propane heater. It is really that I'm not fond of an open flame in the shop and will avoid it when I can.
Then it occurred to me to use the induction heater which I mainly use to heat rusty stuck things. So i figured why not, it worked like a champ. It actually took less time to heat the rod and was more uniform during the process. No open flame and the only thing hot is the rod. It was perfect

 

[PRHeads]

Great idea!!

 

[69Bee]

I use a cutting torch secured in a vise so that I can heat the rod pin end. I takes me about 20 minutes to set out the pistons, identify the front, ID the rod number and front, lube the pins and pistons, then heat and install 8 pistons to rods. The torch is below the overhead propane shop heater too, LOL... I ain't skeert!!!

I am not sure how much current that unit uses, but the Induction heaters I have seen in videos (very impressive) heats to cherry red in seconds. I hope you don't heat your rod ends to cherry red because they will be destroyed. That hot will over expand the ends, and they will not contract all of the way down. I had a customer watch me do some rods, and thought he would help out his buddy installing pistons on his new Eagle rods. Well, I pushed out the pins with my finger and installed the pistons on a NEW set of Eagle rods the way I do it. I heat while constantly rotating the pin end until blue, then go to a golden "Straw" color, then put it in the piston and push the pin in place. If the lights are down, you can see a very dull red glow and you do not want to go past this.

 

[RJRENTON]

I have new pistons for the 383 that goes back in Ruby and was going to take the rods and stuff to a machine shop for the install. I have done wrist pins before but I am not a fan of using a torch or propane heater. It is really that I'm not fond of an open flame in the shop and will avoid it when I can.
Then it occurred to me to use the induction heater which I mainly use to heat rusty stuck things. So i figured why not, it worked like a champ. It actually took less time to heat the rod and was more uniform during the process. No open flame and the only thing hot is the rod. It was perfect View attachment 1761755View attachment 1761756

Induction heating is an excellent solution. It is used in industry all the time to heat bearing races, roller bearings, etc just about any application requiring a press or clearance fit. Rather than the "Army method" of brute force and blind ignorance, Suggest using a TEMPLE STICK, of the maximum temperature range expected, to determine the temp of the item being heated, so as not to exceed it's anneal or softening point. Just a thought.......
BOB RENTON

 

[3sloppydogs]

it only took about 30 seconds to heat it up and they never got red. The loop went around the whole rod end so the heat was applied uniformly at one time. The pins slid in easily and still had enough time to center them before it contracted and set in place. I didn't have my Lazer temp thing to check the heat, wish I did out of curiosity.

 

[dvw]

Either method will work. Like anything else do it correctly and there won't be an issue.
Doug

 

[RJRENTON]

Out of curiosity, does anyone ever use FULL FLOATING WRIST PINS?? Slip fit in he piston pin boss and slip fit in the rod. The piston is machined to accept: EITHER a SPIROLOX RING OR a WALDES I.D. TRU-ARC RING. Double retainer rings both sides to prevent excessive Axial pin movement. Thoughts??????
BOB RENTON

 

[Gunner1]

You can put the wrist pins in the freezer also. Shrinks them so you don’t need as much heat.

 

[dvw]

Out of curiosity, does anyone ever use FULL FLOATING WRIST PINS?? Slip fit in he piston pin boss and slip fit in the rod. The piston is machined to accept: EITHER a SPIROLOX RING OR a WALDES I.D. TRU-ARC RING. Double retainer rings both sides to prevent excessive Axial pin movement. Thoughts??????
BOB RENTON

The only reason to full float would be for ease of disassembly. If that were the case? The application would probably have pistons and rods that were set up that way from the start and not be using cast pistons and stock rods.
Doug