Flat tappet camshafts

[Mebsuta]

Okay. In 1989 I successfully installed and used an Isky 270 Mega Cam (hydraulic flat tappet) in 383 RR using Sta Lube assembly lube and whatever motor oil was available at the time (probably SG). I only used it for a little while, driving here and there, but still have that cam around. It's not too wildly different from the factory one as far as lift and duration. I remember driving it around some before I changed motor oil. It has a 108 degree LSA, so it sounded different from the factory cam; like it had a mean streak.

I have had a few different cams and sets of lifters in mine over time, but they have been factory or pretty close. Most people use more agressive stuff now, I think, so FWIW.

 

[383man]

I am running a solid flat tappet in my new 493 eng. Its a custom grind by Dwayne Porter. Just broke the cam in last month. Valvoline racing oil and a bottle of Comp oil additive. No problems at all. Ron

 

[67 B-body]

After inspection, it appears as if the plating is coming off of the lifter body. There is spoting of little specs of this even on the side of at least one of the lifters so far. When I remove the rest of them, a closer inspection will be made. A couple of the spots on the lifter side can catch your finger nail when inspecting. I didn't realy look for this prior to installation so I can't comment on condition prior to install. Kofells is selling me a cam / lifter set that they like to run in 440's. They said to use Brad Penn oil and plenty of the moly on lifters and cam at breakin. They have had complete success using this method on solid lifter flat tappet cams.

 

[383man]

Forgot to mention that I am using EDM lifters which have the tiny hole in the bottom for oiling the lobe. Ron

 

[GTXKen]

I'm running a custom grind comp cam, hydr/flat lifter at about .560 lift. Assembled and broken in by yours truely with comp break in lube and Retella 15w40. Ran it for the 20 minutes and changed oil and filter and filled it with Retella 15w40 and ZDDP additive. Change oil every 3K, its been 2 years now.

 

[67 B-body]

Cam showed up at the speed shop today. Picking everything up including the Brad Penn oil tomorrow on my way home from the airport.
Then it's finish tear down, clean up and re-assembly. Hopefully running on Sunday

 

[bbeep69]

Comp XE275HL-10 flat tappet hydraulic cam with CAT 1.6 aluminum roller rockers (for an effective lift of .560") in my 383. Using synthetic oil and STP additive. No problems to report.

 

[67 B-body]

Forgot to mention that I am using EDM lifters which have the tiny hole in the bottom for oiling the lobe. Ron

Who manufactured yours?

 

[ChgrSteve67]

Hydraulic flat tappet
Valvoline VR1 20w50 rading motor oil
NAPA Gold 1515 filter

Crankcase drained and filled with new oil and a filter

Before installing the camshaft and lifters wash them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits to remove the rust preventative that is placed on the cam prior to shipping.

DO NOT "pump-up" hydraulic lifters before use.

Using good cam lube (ask cam manufacture for recomendation), coat the bottom of the lifters, cam lobes and distributor gear.

Adjust valves if they are adjustable. Try to minimize the number of times that you rotate the engine, as this can displace the cam lube from the lobes and lifters.

If possible prime the oiling system. I like using an electric drill to spin the oil pump priming the engine. Valve covers should be off to assure that all rockers are geting oil.

Preset the ignition timing to start the engine at a fast idle.
Also prefill the carburetor, a electric fuel pump works well for this.
The engine needs to start quickly without excessive cranking to insure immediate lubrication to the cam lobes.

Start the engine and immediately bring to 2,500 rpm.
Timing should be adjusted to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. I set my 383 between 12 and 15 BTDC

Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow acceleration/deceleration cycle for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 - 30 minutes.

Let the engine cool, and then drain the oil and remove the filter. I like to cut the filter apart and look for any forign material. Refill the crankcase with oil and install a new filter. At this point the initial "break in" is complete. Drive the vehicle in a normal manner.

Never use old lifters on a new cam. If you replace the cam, replace the lifters. You can install new lifters on a previously used cam.

Hope this helps.
-Steve

 

[67 B-body]

Hydraulic flat tappet
Valvoline VR1 20w50 rading motor oil
NAPA Gold 1515 filter

Crankcase drained and filled with new oil and a filter

Before installing the camshaft and lifters wash them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits to remove the rust preventative that is placed on the cam prior to shipping.

DO NOT "pump-up" hydraulic lifters before use.

Using good cam lube (ask cam manufacture for recomendation), coat the bottom of the lifters, cam lobes and distributor gear.

Adjust valves if they are adjustable. Try to minimize the number of times that you rotate the engine, as this can displace the cam lube from the lobes and lifters.

If possible prime the oiling system. I like using an electric drill to spin the oil pump priming the engine. Valve covers should be off to assure that all rockers are geting oil.

Preset the ignition timing to start the engine at a fast idle.
Also prefill the carburetor, a electric fuel pump works well for this.
The engine needs to start quickly without excessive cranking to insure immediate lubrication to the cam lobes.

Start the engine and immediately bring to 2,500 rpm.
Timing should be adjusted to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. I set my 383 between 12 and 15 BTDC

Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow acceleration/deceleration cycle for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 - 30 minutes.

Let the engine cool, and then drain the oil and remove the filter. I like to cut the filter apart and look for any forign material. Refill the crankcase with oil and install a new filter. At this point the initial "break in" is complete. Drive the vehicle in a normal manner.

Never use old lifters on a new cam. If you replace the cam, replace the lifters. You can install new lifters on a previously used cam.

Hope this helps.
-Steve

I too use the drill to prime the system after assy. 2500rpm for 30 minutes as well. I like to run a hose into the radiator neck with the drain opened up to help with temps for the long breakin run. Fortunatly, I already have the ign timing set from the previous cam, so I'll mark the dist and re-install at the same mark.

 

[383man]

My EDM lifters were by Comp. Ron

 

[67 B-body]

Dissapointed in Mopar Performance!

Well, another chapter begins in the Mopar saga!
I ordered my cam and lifters a week agao tomorrow "wednesday" and I still only have the cam with no lifters or assy lube! I arrived at the store, spoke with the owner for a bit and jokingly said "are the lifters and lube in that box?"... I went out to the car, opened the package, and would you believe it,,,,, NO LIFTERS OR LUBE!!!!!!!!!
It's now Tuesday and still no damn lifters!!!! I feel sorry for the shop I got it from, but the only corospondance I get from them regarding this huge mistake is when I call asking what the status is! I'm becoming dissapointed in them too at this point.
I went to Moparts and seen lots of people complaining about cams going bad, and one post mentioned going to the Mopar booth with a bad cam "lobes worn off" and the representitive said to the other rep, "Another bad cam?". Now I'm told that there is no real time frame for the lifters availability and that I'm stuck waiting. I called summit and they said it's on back order not to be expected to them no sooner than the end of the month, Jegs website says not available.
I'm so sick and tired of being dicked around! When I order something from Mopar, pay for it, have half of it shipped to me without mention of any issues of completely fullfilling the order, I get MAD! What the hell is Mopar trying to pull here?