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Flat tappet solid or hydraulic

Beekeeper

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What the consensus on a solid flat tappet vs hydraulic for a 492 rb stroker on the street?
Trying to decide which way to go for my new build.
 
For me, it would be determined by the flow potential of the heads. Rpm or better, solid flat tappet. Cast iron, unless well ported, nice smooth hydraulic. Simplistic answer, i know.
 
Will be using the Trick flow 240 heads and plan to use Harland sharp 1:5 rockers
 
Both have pros & cons... If you want to spin big RPM's solid, you want zero maintenance (in theory) go Hydraulic...

I like solids, they don't need to be adjusted all that often unless it's a serious race piece, Something in the 550 or less lift range won't need weekly/monthly adjustments.... After the initial set-up re-check the lash after a thousand miles or so to verify things are normal, typically two or three valves will need a small adjustment .002-.004, after that plan to run the valves again in 4-5000 miles, You'll probably be ready for valve cover gaskets by then anyway...

If you decide to go solid plan on using lifters with an EDM'ed oil hole on the face, it helps prevent flat cams by always keeping oil on the lobes....
 
do the hs or other roller tip rockers require a b3 kit or did TF relocate the stands enough?
what compression, etc
how hardcore is rhe rest of the build?
 
If you have the budget hydraulic roller will out perform a solid flat tappet on torque and horsepower in a street motor to 6500 rpm. More manifold vacuum also.
Longer stroke motors make torque but I am not a fan of revving them too high. Not much point.
No need for bullshit cam run in or the associated stress of wondering if the cam is going to fail.
In saying that you can get problems with any type of system. A coin toss unfortunately.
I have done a number of hydraulic rollers and no issues at all so far.
If someone is paying for a motor I will still do a solid flat tappet but no more hydraulic flat tappet. Had one fail that was my fault so no more flat tappet hydraulic for me.
You should consider the Hughes rockers. The oiling on the Hughes system is well thought out when compared to the Harland Sharp. I had a set of Harland Sharp for my 340 and the rocker geometry was terrible. Not to mention I ordered 1.5 ratio and got 1.6 in the incorrectly labelled packaging. They look the **** but I never even used them and got the Hughes ones.
It was my own engine and I was using a hydraulic flat tappet cam and was paranoid about using the higher ratio and losing another cam during run in. The cam is OK and the engine goes good but that was the last one I will use.
 
I’m still open on which rockers to use. I have a set of Harland sharp rockers but they are roller rockers and i'm not really sold on
needle bearing rockers for the street. I don’t
plan to go crazy with the cam just match it to the combo for street use.vacuum is important i plan to run a six pack set up not looking to twist this thing up much past 5500 anyhow. Low end torque is more important to me than the upper high end.
The gear in it currently is 3.91 with a 4 speed and have some thoughts of changing
to a 3.55
 
Well I'm just a Joeblow nobody but I would use a solid. I'm tired of the issues and instability with hydraulics in a performance engine with stiff springs, and most hydraulics making any power are noisy anyway so what's really the upside anymore?
I've had good results running the Mancini/Harland-Sharp rockers. They are roller only on the tips, and about the cheapest ones I would use on anything. Figure in the extra couple hundred clams for a geometry correction kit right off the bat too...and if those new trick-flows get you a narrow enough valvestem pattern without it then, Score!! You're money ahead.
 
On my 451 I found the best results for the $$$ with Solid flat. We managed to make over 600 on both sides along with 13" vaccum. On a few build a nice custom ground solid flat outperformed the Hyd rollers. Maintenance wise yes Hyd was better. I would suggest call Bullet, howards or my Builder TK race 514-920-0094 and he can spec out a cam for your application.
 
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I’m using a custom ground Crower solid flat tappet with Crower EDM lifters.
Also, runnning an old set of Isky ductile iron rockers with the RAS spacers and hold downs. (The old ones with the hardened tips).
I too, debated the issue. For me, I like the simplicity and reliability of the bushes, non roller, arms and the mech cam.
I run the valves each year, and they are always within a .001 or so of where I set them last. (Probably didn’t move, and the .001 is a product when I tighten the jam nut).
 
do the hs or other roller tip rockers require a b3 kit or did TF relocate the stands enough?
what compression, etc
how hardcore is rhe rest of the build?
I talked to Trick Flow at the PRI show, and the rep said they have the mounting bosses located in a “good” spot for a .550ish lift cam with HS rocker arms.
Obviously, each case will be slightly different depending on the build.
 
Thanks for all the great input this is why this site is so valuable :thumbsup:
 
Solid flat tappet. Call PRH and he’ll spec one out for your combo. I run one of his in my 511, very happy with it.
 
Looks like 100% vote for solids. Solid roller in my tina, solid flat purple shaft In my 62, my max had a solid roller when I was running it, and my opel will get a solid flat tappet voodoo when I put the aluminum head stroker in it.
 
There are a lot of good solid grinds available and the newer grinds are much quieter and a little tighter on the lash settings.
The engine will go well and it is more cost effective for sure.
Good luck with the build.
 
I paid up bought a Mike Jones SFT you get what you pay for
he has the best lobes (and does not chase the last .010 lift just for braging rights)
FYI He did post up that it takes a 1.7 rocker to get a similar curve to a HR (I think he was referencing his boat with a chevy motor) (both not race only lobes)
with a .903 lifter and Mopar lobe they are pretty much the same with a 1.5 rocker till you get inot the high lift area where the roller pulls away
 
Solid flat tappet. Call PRH and he’ll spec one out for your combo. I run one of his in my 511, very happy with it.


Same here as I run a Porter solid flat tappet in my street/strip 493. Its been together over 9 years and still running great. As for rockers I use these Hughes roller tip rockers and they also have been in my eng over 9 years with great service. Ron

413108541.jpg
 
Same here as I run a Porter solid flat tappet in my street/strip 493. Its been together over 9 years and still running great. As for rockers I use these Hughes roller tip rockers and they also have been in my eng over 9 years with great service. Ron

413108541.jpg

Are the hughes rockers bushing or needle bearings on the rocker shaft?
 
I have a set of Hughes rocker arms on my 340 and there is no bush or needle bearing. The aluminium of the rocker arm runs directly against the shaft.
 
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