flex sockets

[BeeKool]

Good thread.
Ive been wanting a good set (metric & standard) for awhile.
Local store sells SK which I really like but $100 for 6 sockets is a bit steep. Take that times two because I want metric and standard....

Another question, is whether to go with 6 or 12 point. Any input on that?

 

[MarPar]

 

[ksurfer2]

maybe I should approach this a different way. I'm trying to space the starter on a 440 in a 63 B body. the top mounting bolt is impossible to get on without removing the dr side exh man (magnum) and dropping the head pipe off the man. I'm unable to do it myself and want to avoid asking one of my sons for help. they are always there for me but I realize they have families and jobs of their own. anyone been thru this before? the bolt just needs loosening so I can pry the starter away from the ring gear.

I struggled with the same bolt for a long time until I realized that my 9/16" distributor wrench is perfect for holding the top side of the bolt while I have a ratchet on the nut. I can reach both from underneath the car this way and no assistance is necessary!

 

[old guys rule]

Good thread.
Ive been wanting a good set (metric & standard) for awhile.
Local store sells SK which I really like but $100 for 6 sockets is a bit steep. Take that times two because I want metric and standard....

Another question, is whether to go with 6 or 12 point. Any input on that?

 

[old guys rule]

saw a 6 pc set at northern tool today for $17 6pt...have never seen them in 12pt..that would be advantageous in such tight spots. I ordered a single socket o/L. will try it. Why I didn't buy the northern set is a mystery, brain fart!

 

[old guys rule]

I struggled with the same bolt for a long time until I realized that my 9/16" distributor wrench is perfect for holding the top side of the bolt while I have a ratchet on the nut. I can reach both from underneath the car this way and no assistance is necessary!

 

[old guys rule]

excellent idea, but as per my luck I have a Keisler bellhousing and it takes a 7/16 bolt so it has a 5/8 head. My dist. wrench is 1/2 & 9/16. A shame, your idea would have worked. Thanks, Dave

 

[old guys rule]

Can you get on it from the bottom with a starter wrench like this?https://www.harryepstein.com/index....MIofX3oNfN3wIVizRpCh3I2gHZEAQYAiABEgKFB_D_BwE

going to try that tomorrow. the ad says starter and dist. wrench...never knew what it was for, just bought it at the time cause I didn't have one

 

[old guys rule]

can't believe this is happing. dropped the head pipe and pulled the exh manifold to get at the starter but it has no play. is it possible I have the wrong starter? they are the same across the board as I remember it for big blocks and S/6. worse yet the problem is the starter gear teeth are too large and won't fit into the ring gear teeth. could it be I have a SB starter? never seen this before. taking it to a shop that rebuilds starters & alts tomorrow for an education. maybe there is a smaller starter gear that will fit it. Counted the ring gear teeth-143, correct for an 11" clutch. at wit's end!+

 

[old guys rule]

no nuts on this. bolts thread directly into threaded holes in the bell housing.

 

[oldkimmer]

Obviously somethings not right. What’s is the application u used to get ur starter. Is it a mini or factory old style. Kim

 

[Ironbuilt]

Do you have a Y or an X pipe connecting your exhaust pipes? If so, you might have to unbolt the header on the other side and drop the exhaust enough to remove the starter. I would definitely replace it with a mini starter and stud that difficult bolt. That will also make installation easier. Good luck. I didn't have any of those issues on my 63 Dodge with a 440 and headers.

 

[old guys rule]

the starter is oem rebuild. I do have tti exhaust so I had to drop the head pipe and remove the exh header. a local Mopar expert told me to count the teeth on the flywheel and when I did (143, correct for 11" clutch), I got a good look at the starter gear and found that the teeth on the starter are visibly larger than those on the ring gear (?!!??). went to a starter/ alternator rebuild shop whose owner has been rebuilding since before they invented the automobile and he had no idea, so, I stopped at the parts store where I bought it and asked for the part no. tomorrow I will pull the starter out and check the PN. If it's not a match I will maybe have found the problem. if not I guess I'll get back to the expert (a lot of you guys probably know him--Jerry from Starke FL-- he's at all the swap meets) or maybe I'll lose it and go out and buy a Ford! sorry, didn't mean to swear! really appreciate the help fellas, never seen this sort of nonsense before. Dave

 

[yella71]

sounds like the bell housing is the issue. wrong size fly wheel for that bell housing. its not a factory one? is that what you said?

 

[old guys rule]

The bell is a Keisler so I have no recourse. I'm thinking it is the problem. Will figure out Sunday when I get back out to the garage.

 

[khryslerkid]

Take the starter to the parts store and have them pull one for a 90's Dakota V8 and compare the starter gears. The one you have might be wrong.

Also think about useing a stud for the top bolt hole.

 

[BeeKool]

If you want some pictures of a Dakota starter, Im currently parting a Dakota out. It would be know trouble

 

[yella71]

so im guessing that you never had this set up together and working. the trans and bell is new to the car. a starter for a Dakota/mini starter will make no difference it is a bolt in replacement for a reular starter. all mopar gear reduction starters are the same except for the motor part (more torque or less torque) . the direct drive hemi starters were different. they used a different bell. call keisler and see what they recommend . could be you need the smaller 132 tooth flywheel. you might even want to post in the trans forum and ask there, someone must have a trans setup like yours . they can tell you their flywheel clutch starter set up