FNG from MT

[Parts Finder]

Hi All,
I grew up with in a GMC family. Dad said Fords were fixed or repaired daily and on a quite day you could hear the Mopars rust. I found a 67 SS Camaro in HS that needed fixing and then after it was gone bought a 68 RS/SS in College (and fixed it some more). Still like the 1st Gen Camaros but don't like havin to unhook my battery every time I stop for more than 15 mins.
I was bitten by the Mopar bug about 15 years ago when a regular customer in my business was talking up how rare the old Mopars were compared to Camaros and Mustangs. Soon after, I bought a 73 Challenger body and motor the year the new Challenger prototypes came out with the 73 grill style. Unfortunately, the next year Dodge released the new Challeger with the 70 grill so I sold the 73 and I went on to have and sell a 71 RR and a 71 Cuda until finally settling on my original FJ6 71 GTX, now running its numbers matching 440 and trans.

 

[66383]

from Ky. I like them all!

 

[Parts Finder]

TY, do you have any opinion on whether I should fix an old steel hood or buy a new fiberglass one?

 

[yella71]

I have a factory glass T/A hood on my challenger. I have the correct springs so its hinged and hood pins to keep it closed. I like it. I don't think I,d want a lift off on a street car.

 

[Parts Finder]

I have a factory glass T/A hood on my challenger. I have the correct springs so its hinged and hood pins to keep it closed. I like it. I don't think I,d want a lift off on a street car.

Does the factory glass hood have a latch under the hood in addition to the pins? If not, do you use locks on your pins?

 

[mr. b]

welcome to FBBO nice looking mopars fix the steel hood i like the stock hood on 71s

 

[70chall440]

I voted get an entire new hood based on the concept of bolting on a fiberglass scoop to the steel hood. If there was a 3rd option of fixing the steel hood and running it that way, I might have voted for that. I am not a fan of fiberglass scoops bolted to steel hoods usually, unless a lot of work is done to the scoop so that it is bolted down securely.

 

[Blake67GTX]

Totally redeemed yourself purchasing the Challenger and then Roadrunner...

Keep your steel panels unmolested. Cut up the fiberglass stuff. My opinion. You will likely have some bodywork on the glass parts too- they’re rarely perfect.

Welcome to forbbodies!

 

[GetX'd]

Welcome to FBBO from SoCal

 

[polywideblock]

g'day from Australia

 

[dryheat]

Welcome to the site. What part of Montana?

 

[Budnicks]

welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras

put the org. hood aside in the corner

buy a good quality fiber-glass hood with a scoop molded in
& either use really lightweight hood springs
or some sort of prop-rod to hold it up

do not buy a race-weight hood, they're way too flimsy
need to have a bunch of dzus fasteners or pins all over

I have an A12 lift off hood on my 68 RR, 4 pins & short lanyards
it can be a PITA at times
I carry a blanket to throw on my roof or ground
just to set the hood on
But;
it does make it extremely easy to work on stuff under hood though
it can be drawbacks on a reg. street car

try AAR see if they have a hood for that year too

 

[Parts Finder]

Welcome to the site. What part of Montana?

Beautiful Butte, Mt. ;)

 

[68sprtsat383]

Welcome

 

[Hey-O]

Welcome from Missouri!! Very nice!!!

 

[HD539]

Welcome from the Pacific Northwest

 

[dryheat]

Beautiful Butte, Mt. ;)

Ah ... a 1-plater ... I am a 4-plater by birth.

 

[Parts Finder]

Thank you all for your input so far. Based on everyone's unanimous opinion that I should buy the fiberglass hood, I ordered one today from USBody. I now have for sale ($285 + shipping): a decent sandblasted and primed original hood for a 71-72 Satellite, or the beginning of an air grabber hood for a Road Runner or GTX. Two different shops said that it would require 1 or 2 days worth of metal work to remove the dents and make it straight.