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Freshly rebuilt 727 help

New converter, flexplate, flexplate bolts, torque converter bolts and gasket kit ordered. Got an 11" 24 spline 2400 stall. Should arrive friday hopefully so I'll be doing a late one that night with an early start Saturday to see if I get it on the road
 
Hopefully I do but I'm unsure if my luck will be any good. I'm only ordering these parts to diagnose issues so I got cheap parts from rock auto. If they solve the issue I'll save up to get a branded torque converter and swap them out
 
If these rock auto parts sort it out I'll talk to him and get a converter. I've mostly been dealing with John Cope and A&A for parts. Didnt have anyone for torque converters as I've never had to buy one before. Always great to get info on good vendors
 
Next question. I have a rebuild kit sitting here already. I installed Teflon seals last rebuild. Should I install steel rings or keep the Teflon? Anyone have any preferences
 
That answer is good enough for me
 
So did I miss it? Or were the results the same with the 2nd valve body? If the converter was bad there wouldn't be a difference between manual low and low in D. The converter doesn't care what gear seletion is made. How did 2nd, 3rd and R operate? I'm assuming you reused the original hard parts; reaction shaft support, input shaft, and front drum? Need a little more info. Did you drive it or just set in the garage? How many quarts of fluid did you put in it? Deep or standard pan? Were the reaction shaft bolts tight? What are the clutch pack clearances?
Doug
 
Next question. I have a rebuild kit sitting here already. I installed Teflon seals last rebuild. Should I install steel rings or keep the Teflon? Anyone have any preferences
I know it's old.. but teflon for sure.. i paid $300 for a rebuild kit from a performance place and it came with stock steel rings.. kinda pissed at every part i bought from them.
 
So did I miss it? Or were the results the same with the 2nd valve body? If the converter was bad there wouldn't be a difference between manual low and low in D. The converter doesn't care what gear seletion is made. How did 2nd, 3rd and R operate? I'm assuming you reused the original hard parts; reaction shaft support, input shaft, and front drum? Need a little more info. Did you drive it or just set in the garage? How many quarts of fluid did you put in it? Deep or standard pan? Were the reaction shaft bolts tight? What are the clutch pack clearances?
Doug
I didnt try the second valve body as when I drained the oil it was showing some metal in it so I decided to pull the trans and check the damage which I didn't find any. The internals were immaculate. I checked all bushings, pump, clutches, snap rings and seals. For the life of me I cannot remember off the top of my head as to what the clearances for the clutches was but it was within the tolerence range in the manual. All bolts were oiles and torqued to spec. I recently got my torque wrench calibrate and it reads perfectly. The weak point to me and the possibly cause was the used converter. My buddy is tough on cars so I have a feeling that the used converter I got from him contained metal pieces from his trans as my internals were perfect. I reused all internal drums and planetary gears. New bands were installed and torqued correctly and backed off to the required amount.
My new converter arrived today so I'll install it tomorrow and should have the car moving on Saturday. On Sunday when I tried to test drive the car it wouldn't give any indication that it was in gear until I reverse it to 2k and it would slightly move but felt like the brakes were dragging. In reverse it was the very same but in 1low it would move without feeling like it was dragging the brakes. I cycled through the gears and checked the fluid in neutral. Fluid level was perfect. I have a deep pan from John Cope installed with spacer plate. I put 1L of fluid into the torque converter before I installed it and when I filled the trans it tool 9.5L
 
I didnt try the second valve body as when I drained the oil it was showing some metal in it so I decided to pull the trans and check the damage which I didn't find any. The internals were immaculate. I checked all bushings, pump, clutches, snap rings and seals. For the life of me I cannot remember off the top of my head as to what the clearances for the clutches was but it was within the tolerence range in the manual. All bolts were oiles and torqued to spec. I recently got my torque wrench calibrate and it reads perfectly. The weak point to me and the possibly cause was the used converter. My buddy is tough on cars so I have a feeling that the used converter I got from him contained metal pieces from his trans as my internals were perfect. I reused all internal drums and planetary gears. New bands were installed and torqued correctly and backed off to the required amount.
My new converter arrived today so I'll install it tomorrow and should have the car moving on Saturday. On Sunday when I tried to test drive the car it wouldn't give any indication that it was in gear until I reverse it to 2k and it would slightly move but felt like the brakes were dragging. In reverse it was the very same but in 1low it would move without feeling like it was dragging the brakes. I cycled through the gears and checked the fluid in neutral. Fluid level was perfect. I have a deep pan from John Cope installed with spacer plate. I put 1L of fluid into the torque converter before I installed it and when I filled the trans it tool 9.5L
Good luck, interested to find out what it was...
 
I'll do an update over the weekend as soon as the job is done
 
I guess the moral of the story is that if you get a used convertor, put some trans fluid in it and
swish it around and see if anything comes out? Sorry you got burned!
 
Here's the funny thing. I dumped the fluid that was in the converter and put fresh fluid in. Stupid mistake I made was I didnt shake it up before I dumped the fluid. You live and you learn. Only way to learn is make mistakes and use them a lessons. Hopefully I'm right in thinking it's the converter. Time will tell. Hopefully I can get out of work early tomorrow and get to my car. Thats the sad part about life in dublin. Its a 1 hour drive to my car from work and 30 mins from my house. I. Hoping in the near future to build my own house and build a nice big garage
 
In all the years I've been doing transmissions. I've had one converter that wouldn't move the car. I've had broken converters as well. But the car always moved. Earlier this summer my sons racecar had been having issues. Finnaly it wouldn't move. Pressure testing showed weird results. Pulled the trans. Trans guts looked fine. When we disassmbled the valve body we found a crack in the converter fill circuit of the valve body. You'll know soon enough. My bet is that it's one or the other
Doug
 
When I lived in alabama if I need parts for anything it was so easy to get. Unfortunately in ireland american parts are rare so I'm very lucky to have the spare valve body from my buddy. If his VB works and mine doesn't ill get a new one from John and ill be guaranteed it will be fine for years to come
 
I agree with Doug, I've yet to see a converter completely give up.
Ground down bushings ,yes.
Hoping for the best for ya
 
If the pump is worn, you can get odd problems. Have you checked the line pressure?
I had a problem with a Transgo TF-3 kit where I had to give the engine some rpms in 3rd gear before it would move from a standstill. I contacted TG & they said the pump was worn.
 
Just cause somebody might find this useful.... A sure way of keeping the convertor seated when installing a trans or an engine....

IMG_8207.jpg
 
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