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From Magnum Force Back to Stock Suspension

Next video will deal with a comparison of KYB Gas Adjust and Bilstein shocks. I personally have done this on my stock 69 Coronet suspension and found no noticeable difference in ride quality. Certainly, not enough to justify the expense.
 
Is this one of the three B body's that did an IFS "soft" IMO lame on road video comparison on with aftermarket track and pinion/coil overs a few months back?
 
Is this one of the three B body's that did an IFS "soft" IMO lame on road video comparison on with aftermarket track and pinion/coil overs a few months back?
They did a road test, as most of us are able to do, comparing three similar cars with different suspension systems drivingthe samecourse with each one. One car had a stock suspension and two were modified.
 
I have never been a fan of "upgrading" to Magnum Force IFS. It is nice video and took a lot of effort. My puzzlement here is though I never heard the case of why return to completely stock with all that effort. The broken weld on the inner tower brace is not proven to be attributed to the MF over loading of the OEM upper shock towers.
The MF? Wilwood brake selection is something one might see on early Slant 6 A body, and was without a doubt a poor choice, and easy to correct and have a much better solution than any OEM disc package intended for performance use. The brake rotor warping concern voiced here is debatable. The car is beautiful, and the father should be very pleased for his expected use. Strange how much the MF IFS used was in demand when up for sale. Where are these buyers hiding? I can't believe anybody with internet would ever buy a MF IFS.
 
Next video will deal with a comparison of KYB Gas Adjust and Bilstein shocks. I personally have done this on my stock 69 Coronet suspension and found no noticeable difference in ride quality. Certainly, not enough to justify the expense.
I've personally done this with A and B bodies from KYB to Bilsteins and will always. I also did PST torsion bars. Huge noticeable difference.
 
Is this one of the three B body's that did an IFS "soft" IMO lame on road video comparison on with aftermarket track and pinion/coil overs a few months back?

They did a road test, as most of us are able to do, comparing three similar cars with different suspension systems drivingthe samecourse with each one. One car had a stock suspension and two were modified.
The road test was lame. It was just some dude making a casual drive and commenting on it. No slalom to compare body roll, no stopwatch, no skid pad, no course with undulations to assess ride quality.
The guy that makes the videos for the channel seems like a nice dude. The videos may just be a tool he uses the get the word out for his business. I doubt he makes the videos to generate money from YouTube.
 
The MF? Wilwood brake selection is something one might see on early Slant 6 A body, and was without a doubt a poor choice, and easy to correct and have a much better solution than any OEM disc package intended for performance use. The brake rotor warping concern voiced here is debatable.
I ran brake torque numbers on every combo from stock 11" to the 11.75" a couple 13" setups, and up to the 14" 4 piston Wilwood. The winner... the factory 11.75" setup. Now I realize that for racing there are heat management and pedal feel issues, but for a performance street car, I can't see spending the several grand for Wilwood/Baer etc.
 
You likely are correct, bang for buck, Oem is best deal. Performance wise not so much. Regardless, the ultimate goal is stopping one's car. and brakes only stop the wheels, tires stop the car, and are often most likely stopping determining factor.
 
You likely are correct, bang for buck, Oem is best deal. Performance wise not so much. Regardless, the ultimate goal is stopping one's car. and brakes only stop the wheels, tires stop the car, and are often most likely stopping determining factor.
Best brake torque with less than a 6 piston caliper is the factory 11.75", that's going to be the best performance, at least for a single stop. And ya, "brakes stop the wheels, tires stop the car" is absolutely true. So on that end you're 100% correct.
 
Brake choices normally consider a number of factors, brake torque is only one, and likely everyone values each differently, and I don't want to broad brush here.
One final test to determine if a brake choice is adequate given the application, can you simply lock the tires at a pertinent speed under expected driving conditions, if not you do not have adequate braking IMO.
 
I switched from the 12" Cordoba brakes to the Dr Diff 13" kit and for the first time ever, I got the front brakes to skid.
 
FYI, he posted the video comparing the KYB Gas Adjust shocks to the expensive Bilstein shocks. He addressed some of your complaints about his road tests, as well.


 
Any seat of the pants road test is going to be worth just that. Unless you have professional level drivers and timed and measured results you must take it all with a grain of salt. And then, assuming you have actually improved anything, there is the cost-benefit analysis... e.g "was it worth spending $xx,*** to get x% improvement", and did I just lose X% of the market of people who will eventually buy this car by modifying it with non-stock components that a part of this hobby find objectionable.

One thing is for sure. I'm glad other people do this stuff and take the time to post it up for consumption.
 
I think they often can be misleading for the less knowledgeable and become more marketing tools and foster group think that is very hard to dislodge over time.
A big giveaway is what disclaimers/qualifiers the producers include upfront, which is rare, seldom, and tellingly would counter their underlying narrative.
There is I admit, an entertaining value for some. :popcorn:
GIGO in my book still holds true.
 
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