Front End Alignment

[Moparfiend]

So I have a few questions and Ill just bang em out right now.

Front wheels are squealing over 20mph driving straight. Car does not pull but IS A BIT TWITCHY. I am not to familiar with bbodies drivability because all I have been doing for the last year is work on it lol.

Bbody with a small block. Original suspension but using gas shocks not hydraulic. Also front tire size is 235x60x15
Rears 275x60x15

Q1. I assume it needs an alignment but my question is does a squealing tire indicate more a toe in is off as compared to camber or caster?

Q2. I assume if it’s over twitchy that an alignment would help. If not what should I be looking at?

Q3. Do you guys to your own alignments or does it really require a rack with lasers and computers? Like they had that in 1970 lol.

Happy New Years to ya gents!

1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......

 

[R413]

Generally yes To all. I do my own with a gauge on the spindle. Just because a shop has a modern machine doesn't mean they have a person that can use it to success on an old car. Better not drive it much with those new tires or they could be worn wrong in no time.

A helper and a tape measure can measure toe. Adjust as needed. Camber you can look at and get close. Caster is not a tire wearing angle.

 

[Moparfiend]

Generally yes To all. I do my own with a gauge on the spindle. Just because a shop has a modern machine doesn't mean they have a person that can use it to success on an old car. Better not drive it much with those new tires or they could be worn wrong in no time.

A helper and a tape measure can measure toe. Adjust as needed. Camber you can look at and get close. Caster is not a tire wearing angle.

Thanks! Can you suggest any threads or good reads on how I can learn to do a manual alignment? What type of gauge or level do you use and where do you attach it on the spindle? How do you support the vehicle to do an alignment or is it done with full vehicle weight on its wheels?

 

[Darter6]

Your description sounds like a toe problem. Caster/camber has to be really bad for tires to squeal.
Moving the cams for caster/camber affects toe. Toe doesn't affect caster/camber.
You Tube is your friend. Many videos on the subject. Tape measure and bubble gauge works just fine.
In a pinch a 6'' level works too. And don't be too concerned being dead on with specs, you may have to compromise .

 

[PurpleBeeper]

So I have a few questions and Ill just bang em out right now.

Front wheels are squealing over 20mph driving straight. Car does not pull but IS A BIT TWITCHY. I am not to familiar with bbodies drivability because all I have been doing for the last year is work on it lol.

Bbody with a small block. Original suspension but using gas shocks not hydraulic. Also front tire size is 235x60x15
Rears 275x60x15

Q1. I assume it needs an alignment but my question is does a squealing tire indicate more a toe in is off as compared to camber or caster?

Q2. I assume if it’s over twitchy that an alignment would help. If not what should I be looking at?

Q3. Do you guys to your own alignments or does it really require a rack with lasers and computers? Like they had that in 1970 lol.

Happy New Years to ya gents!

1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......

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Gee whiz….I use Firestone. They up-sold me to a lifetime alignment for $150 about 10 yrs ago (suckers)

 

[Moparfiend]

Gee whiz….I use Firestone. They up-sold me to a lifetime alignment for $150 about 10 yrs ago (suckers)

Hahha good deal if they do it right. I am learning a lot here in how to do it myself. I’ve figured Ive done everything else so might as well learn how to do this as well.

I have all the tools and stuff to do the front and know the set up(s). Now I will have to read the FSM to figure out what the adjustments are that does what on the car itself. I assume the FSM is explains that.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hahha good deal if they do it right. I am learning a lot here in how to do it myself. I’ve figured Ive done everything else so might as well learn how to do this as well.

I have all the tools and stuff to do the front and know the set up(s). Now I will have to read the FSM to figure out what the adjustments are that does what on the car itself. I assume the FSM is explains that.

I’ve had very good luck with Firestones. I just ask “can anyone align an old Mopar?” I’m happy with my $150 purchase

 

[WileE]

You can do an alignment with a bubble gauge and hard tiles minimally greased in between to allow turning to measure caster. I do -0.5 camber, 2-3 pos caster, 1/8 toe-in.

 

[PLUM72]

You can do an alignment with a bubble gauge and hard tiles minimally greased in between to allow turning to measure caster.

A plastic garbage bag under each tire, also allows for the movement while adjusting without any real extra height. Want it even more slick, spray a bit of silicone spray inside the bag before you put it down under the tire.

 

[PLUM72]

There is a company out there called Gyraline. They have an app that works with the iPhone and a tray they sell sell. Between these two items they say you can get an accurate wheel alignment. Never used it but check them out at Gyraline: The DIY Wheel Alignment Solution Alot of people are a bit skeptical about this and perhaps rightly so. The tray and the app is about $160.00. We all have probably blown that on frivolous items. If you play with the measure app on the iPhone, it and the level part of the app, you can begin to see how it might work. Seeing the old school DIY way is with tape measures and bubble levels, this might also get you similar results.

 

[WileE]

There is a company out there called Gyraline. They have an app that works with the iPhone and a tray they sell sell. Between these two items they say you can get an accurate wheel alignment. Never used it but check them out at Gyraline: The DIY Wheel Alignment Solution Alot of people are a bit skeptical about this and perhaps rightly so. The tray and the app is about $160.00. We all have probably blown that on frivolous items. If you play with the measure app on the iPhone, it and the level part of the app, you can begin to see how it might work. Seeing the old school DIY way is with tape measures and bubble levels, this might also get you similar results.

And for an ancient geezer like me, the app and the i-phone would be the most difficult part !

 

[moparedtn]

Just like anything else, I managed to find a shop near who a)knows how and b)lets me get in there with them
when doing the alignment, which I don't see doing more often than 3-4 years in between.
In fact, I use them for their rack as much as anything just so I can check for wear on Fred's front end.

 

[dan juhasz]

tmr makes plates that bolt to your hubs to really help with toe adjustments
Search Results

 

[hunt2elk]

@Kern Dog has done a real nice thread or 2 explaining all you need to know about alignments.

 

[Moparfiend]

@Kern Dog has done a real nice thread or 2 explaining all you need to know about alignments.

Thanks Ill do a search for it!

 

[icetech]

Did my own alignment for the first time recently and am very happy with the outcome.. i had bad tire noise going over bumps (like sqeaking) that was from too much toe in... I used a small bubble gauge to do camber and twine and a tape measure for the toe-in.. car drives perfect with a straight wheel and no pulling..

This is the camber gauge i used.. i pulled the dust cover off the rotor and used the flat edge to stick it on, no need to pull the rim and all that.. (wont work for your cragers, there are ways out there if you search bout home alignments.

Camber gauge

For toe in i used 2 jack stands and twine to do toe-in, i just went and found this quick video showing how it's done.. Except... on a mopar we have that body pinch weld that runs the length of the car, i used that to make the string equal front to back (measuring in front of the rear tire on that seam, and behind the fender) then just measure the front and read of the rim distance to string and adjust... i did one side at a time and came out fine.

Honestly i am happier with this alignment than any one i ever paid for.

P.S. when adjusting the upper control arm for camber, put the rear adjust as far in as possible and use the front to adjust your camber which should lead you to as much caster as possible. I put offset bushing in my upper but didn't bother measuring caster when done since it basically as max it can be while getting camber set...

OHH and thanks for having a small block in a b-body.. should be more of us

 

[dvw]

My 2 cents. Did alignments for 30 years, probably over 5000. Ultimately the car needs to have good components. Especially bushings. What to do right now? It's difficult to measure caster at home. However if it doesn't pull? Caster is probably in the ballpark. How about camber? Eye ball it, do the wheels look like they're standing straight? You can measure camber with a level placed on the sidewall with the car setting on a level surface to get a ballpark reading. So this leaves us with toe. Undoubtably the most important setting. Also the the easiest to check and correct. Again on a level surface. Move the car forward at least 10 feet before checking. Start at the rear of the front tires. Have a helper set a tape measure in one of the tread grooves while the tape is stretched across to the other side. Hold the the tape parallel to the ground and as high as posible without contacting chassis, headers, etc. Now pick a tread groove on your side and record the measurement. Move to the front side of the tires and repeat the process using the same tread grooves you used measuring at the rear. Here you will be able to get the tape as high as the middle of the tire. Make sure the tape is stretched tight and level. The front reading should be 1/8" less than the rear reading. If its not you need to loosen the clamp bolts on the tie rod sleeve and rotate it. 99% of the time the outer tie rod is RH thread, the inner LH thread. Rotating the sleeve clockwise will move the toe outward. Counter clockwise will move it inward. It doesnt take much, a 1/2 turn will make a noticable difference. After making a adjustment the car must move at least 10 feet forward. You can go backward first, and back to your original spot. You will need to make both measurements again. It make take a few times. Then simply tighten the sleeve clamp bolts. I can go into how to keep the wheel dead straight as well. Just depends on how technical you want to get. Obiviously alll new bushings, good parts and someone who knows what they are doing with a goos alignment rack is the best. But if the tires are squeeling the toe has to be pretty far off. I've used this method at the track on cars that exceed 150 mph when we were in a pinch.
Doug

 

[Moparfiend]

Did my own alignment for the first time recently and am very happy with the outcome.. i had bad tire noise going over bumps (like sqeaking) that was from too much toe in... I used a small bubble gauge to do camber and twine and a tape measure for the toe-in.. car drives perfect with a straight wheel and no pulling..

This is the camber gauge i used.. i pulled the dust cover off the rotor and used the flat edge to stick it on, no need to pull the rim and all that.. (wont work for your cragers, there are ways out there if you search bout home alignments.

Camber gauge

For toe in i used 2 jack stands and twine to do toe-in, i just went and found this quick video showing how it's done.. Except... on a mopar we have that body pinch weld that runs the length of the car, i used that to make the string equal front to back (measuring in front of the rear tire on that seam, and behind the fender) then just measure the front and read of the rim distance to string and adjust... i did one side at a time and came out fine.

Honestly i am happier with this alignment than any one i ever paid for.

P.S. when adjusting the upper control arm for camber, put the rear adjust as far in as possible and use the front to adjust your camber which should lead you to as much caster as possible. I put offset bushing in my upper but didn't bother measuring caster when done since it basically as max it can be while getting camber set...

OHH and thanks for having a small block in a b-body.. should be more of us

Hahah yes I am tired of working on big blocks in small places. My last was a 454 in a 1971 Corvette that I stroked to a 496. Talk about tight. It was no fun. If you look at my goal of using a 340 in a Sport Satellite I think I did a better job than Chrysler did making a true “Sport Satellite” as opposed to just putting a badge on a dog.

Ok reading and trying to picture what your describing in your reply post. Thank you for you inputs!

 

[Moparfiend]

My 2 cents. Did alignments for 30 years, probably over 5000. Ultimately the car needs to have good components. Especially bushings. What to do right now? It's difficult to measure caster at home. However if it doesn't pull? Caster is probably in the ballpark. How about camber? Eye ball it, do the wheels look like they're standing straight? You can measure camber with a level placed on the sidewall with the car setting on a level surface to get a ballpark reading. So this leaves us with toe. Undoubtably the most important setting. Also the the easiest to check and correct. Again on a level surface. Move the car forward at least 10 feet before checking. Start at the rear of the front tires. Have a helper set a tape measure in one of the tread grooves while the tape is stretched across to the other side. Hold the the tape parallel to the ground and as high as posible without contacting chassis, headers, etc. Now pick a tread groove on your side and record the measurement. Move to the front side of the tires and repeat the process using the same tread grooves you used measuring at the rear. Here you will be able to get the tape as high as the middle of the tire. Make sure the tape is stretched tight and level. The front reading should be 1/8" less than the rear reading. If its not you need to loosen the clamp bolts on the tie rod sleeve and rotate it. 99% of the time the outer tie rod is RH thread, the inner LH thread. Rotating the sleeve clockwise will move the toe outward. Counter clockwise will move it inward. It doesnt take much, a 1/2 turn will make a noticable difference. After making a adjustment the car must move at least 10 feet forward. You can go backward first, and back to your original spot. You will need to make both measurements again. It make take a few times. Then simply tighten the sleeve clamp bolts. I can go into how to keep the wheel dead straight as well. Just depends on how technical you want to get. Obiviously alll new bushings, good parts and someone who knows what they are doing with a goos alignment rack is the best. But if the tires are squeeling the toe has to be pretty far off. I've used this method at the track on cars that exceed 150 mph when we were in a pinch.
Doug

Thanks so much for such a concise explanation Doug! This is exactly what I needed! Yes my car drives straight hands off but I hear tire squeal especially in a turn. So I know Toe-In must be off. Maybe when I fix that I might detect other alignment problems don’t know. But this is a good start.

Are you referring to the rubber tie rod bushings?

Thanks Doug!

 

[Darter6]

Yes my car drives straight hands off but I hear tire squeal especially in a turn.

There is a spec for what is known as "Toe out on Turns" Non adjustable if I remember. May have to do with frame alignment.It maybe in the factory service manual.
Just a thought. Check to see if your length of inner to outer tie rod ends are equal side to side.Measure from grease fitting to grease fitting.