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Front End Rebuild

67 GTX

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Location
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I'm rebuilding the front end on my 67 gtx. Can anyone recommend some good companies to buy the parts from. Looking for all new ball joints and tire rod ends.

Also, does anyone know where I can find documentation on that color/finish all of the parts are supposed to originally be?
 
Will the car be driven a lot? That will separate whether to paint original like finishes or leave the natural finishes. When they left the factory originally most suspension parts were natural unpainted metal/heat treated finish. While the painted parts were dipped, including the k frame.

There is not one single clear cut reference. Inspect your parts by degreasing and cleaning. That way you can expose factory markings and finishes possibly. Then move to the process of restoring the individual parts. Dave Weiss at MMC Detroit offers great reference guides to parts, part numbers, and finishes but keep in mind it is a reference and not a step by step build guide.

You also left out whether our car has disc/drum brakes, power/manual steering etc.
 
If you're not going for a "show car", why not buy the rebuild parts from NAPA or somewhere like that? Personally, I like getting lifetime warranties on wear parts since I keep my cars for years & years.
 
I rebuilt my entire front end. I bought complete kits ( individual available ) from PST, Performance Suspension Technology. www.p-s-t.com. They offer original & polygraphite. Great customer service 800-247-2288. Free catalog.
 
I rebuilt my entire front end. I bought complete kits ( individual available ) from PST, Performance Suspension Technology. www.p-s-t.com. They offer original & polygraphite. Great customer service 800-247-2288. Free catalog.
pst give discounts for fbbo members if i am not mistaken.
 
I've put about 5 of the pst super kits in 66-70 b bodies. Very complete and decent parts.

Get a press or access to one.

I use the Mancini racing front end tools. I bought it in kit form from them.

I like to use new lower control arm pivot shafts as well.
 
I like to use new lower control arm pivot shafts as well.

Worn out pivot shafts were the biggest thing wrong with my front end. One was so loose in the control arm I had to put a small pair of vice grips on the washer-shoulder to get the bolt off of it. I used all rubber in mine except for the sway bar bushings - Mostly some PST stuff but also some eccentric upper a-arm MOOG bushings.

Can't tell from your post if you have torn a Mopar suspension apart before - if not, tools may be your biggest concern. I invested in a set which were worth their weight in gold. I think Mancini Racing carries most of them. And a press as mentioned above. I barely got by with a 6-ton bench top press from Harbor Freight with enough effort. I went back and got a 12 ton unit later which is recommended if you don't have one.
 
Maybe a slight thread hijack here but same subject. Where do you find all the grade 5 fine thread drilled bolts, castle nuts, flange nuts & lock nuts required to put a front end back together? Every site i went to had some but never all the sizes & styles needed. Will try a local truck supply place later in the week.

Skip
 
I really l ike using Moog parts any time you can find the domestic product. I find nothing better. Napa parts are mostly Moog so you get the backing.
 
Maybe a slight thread hijack here but same subject. Where do you find all the grade 5 fine thread drilled bolts, castle nuts, flange nuts & lock nuts required to put a front end back together? Every site i went to had some but never all the sizes & styles needed. Will try a local truck supply place later in the week.

Skip

PST super kit comes with them all
 
I just did my entire front end last month.

All MOOG and Rock Auto. Couldn't beat the prices even with shipping.
 
Usually all the nuts, washers and lock nuts needed are included with the parts. In the front end I can't think of anything you would need unless there is something you are not replacing like the LCA shafts. Strut shaft bolts - maybe. I've not had any issues typically using larger fasteners over - it's usually the smaller stuff that is rusted and in poor shape. PST can probably supply anything you need upon request.
 
Will the car be driven a lot? That will separate whether to paint original like finishes or leave the natural finishes. When they left the factory originally most suspension parts were natural unpainted metal/heat treated finish. While the painted parts were dipped, including the k frame.

There is not one single clear cut reference. Inspect your parts by degreasing and cleaning. That way you can expose factory markings and finishes possibly. Then move to the process of restoring the individual parts. Dave Weiss at MMC Detroit offers great reference guides to parts, part numbers, and finishes but keep in mind it is a reference and not a step by step build guide.

You also left out whether our car has disc/drum brakes, power/manual steering etc.

Sorry, I have drum brakes all around, manual brakes and steering.

The car is only driven on sunny days, but even so, I usually don't leave things natural alone. I would try to mimic the natural look, since it'll rust due to where I am.
I know the black parts were dipped, and the drip marks on both of my cars torsion bars indicate that. And I know that the lower control arms had that wax treatment. I just don't know the shade and such, especially on all the other parts.
 
Sorry, I have drum brakes all around, manual brakes and steering.

The car is only driven on sunny days, but even so, I usually don't leave things natural alone. I would try to mimic the natural look, since it'll rust due to where I am.
I know the black parts were dipped, and the drip marks on both of my cars torsion bars indicate that. And I know that the lower control arms had that wax treatment. I just don't know the shade and such, especially on all the other parts.
......best of luck figuring it out.....since you know, lol.......
 
Can anyone recall if a change was made in 68, where certain front end parts got thicker?
 
PST is a vendor here and gives all members a 10% discount. On Rock Auto...you had better shop them real good or you'll end up with Shineese parts. Last time a guy came over here for me to press bushings and install his RA ball joints in his upper A arms, my ball joint socket wouldn't even fit the dog gone Shineese made crap. They even looked cheap.
 
Hate Rock Auto, very vague where it's made.... rather spend my money with Napa.
 
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