Front wheel cyl replacement on 66 Belvedere

[TheRX7Project]

I'm trying to replace the front wheel cylinders on my '66 Belvedere, and I have a couple questions. I checked the FSM and it was no help.

First off, is there a way to get them off without removing the backing plate? I can't seem to get a wrench in there to loosen the bolts, which are partially concealed by the spindle.

And, if not, what is the bolt/nut sizes and torque specs for the backing plate, specifically the larger (bottom) bolts that have the cotter pin? Someone stole my large (over 3/4") socket set. It's not something I use often so I was just going to buy the size I need.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

There are 2 I think 7/16 bolts on the back side of the wheel cylinder it self. No need to take the backing plate off.

 

[vance.dykes]

could try honing them and replace all the internal parts ?

 

[JimCoronette]

The steering knuckle crowds the bolt head.
I took a 1/2" 12 point box wrench and ground it down on the flat parts just enough to squeeze it in.
Once you break the bolt free, use the opened end to get the bolt out the rest of the way.

Clean the bolts up, soak them in penetrating oil, make sure the wrench is well engaged, and give it a snap.
If you strip the head, it's on to plan B.

It's tedious and takes patience, but it works.

 

[TheRX7Project]

I saw using a shaved down 1/2" as a recommendation on a google search. However, I'm working on this car in a storage lot (bringing it back to life), and I do not have a bench grinder (or a garage to put one in) so that really isn't an option. I am thinking I may just have to remove the backing plate.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I saw using a shaved down 1/2" as a recommendation on a google search. However, I'm working on this car in a storage lot (bringing it back to life), and I do not have a bench grinder (or a garage to put one in) so that really isn't an option. I am thinking I may just have to remove the backing plate.

That is really a last resort, MO. I'd grind down a wrench offsite more than needed. Once you have it on tap it with a hammer to loosen bolt.
If loosening backing plate just to gain clearance ( not removing nuts) would work. Remember you have the torsion bar tension on the lower ball joint bolts. Don't get hurt!

 

[TheRX7Project]

That is really a last resort, MO. I'd grind down a wrench offsite more than needed. Once you have it on tap it with a hammer to loosen bolt.
If loosening backing plate just to gain clearance ( not removing nuts) would work. Remember you have the torsion bar tension on the lower ball joint bolts. Don't get hurt!

Wait- is the knuckle 2 seperate pieces? If I remove the bolts from the backing plate, is the whole assembly going to come apart?
Whoever designed this deserves a kick square in the nads.

 

[JimCoronette]

Wait- is the knuckle 2 seperate pieces? If I remove the bolts from the backing plate, is the whole assembly going to come apart?
Whoever designed this deserves a kick square in the nads.

The 2 lower bolts hold the lower ball joint to the backing plate. The lower ball joint has torsion bar tension on it and is separate from the knuckle.

To take the backing plate off, you must release torsion bar tension.

 

[TheRX7Project]

Well I'm really glad I asked here... otherwise I see I could've ended up in quite a pickle. I assumed the spindle/steering arm was all one piece.
Luckily, Home Depot has a 12pt 1/2" combination wrench for $3...
Thank you guys

 

[JimCoronette]

Just checked my custom box wrench. It's .260" thick.
Grind the thickness of the box end down to 1/4" and it will fit well.

 

[Ceedawg]

Over the years I made many “special” tools to work on Chrysler’s. When I worked at my uncles Dodge dealership back in the early 70s we had so many factory tool kits we needed a big room to put them all in. The engineers where nutts

 

[Cranky]

Wait- is the knuckle 2 seperate pieces? If I remove the bolts from the backing plate, is the whole assembly going to come apart?
Whoever designed this deserves a kick square in the nads.

Not really a bad design.....all of the OEM's design stuff that doesn't seem normal. If anything ChryCo over engineered stuff.

Over the years I made many “special” tools to work on Chrysler’s. When I worked at my uncles Dodge dealership back in the early 70s we had so many factory tool kits we needed a big room to put them all in. The engineers where nutts

ChryCo wasn't the only OEM to have special tools. I've modified tools too but man, if you think ChryCo is bad, work on Fords of the day lol. Imo, Ford engineers sucked! Also, there are a lot of special tools that ChryCo had that simply were not needed.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Ford one some engines made you take the valve covers off to remove intake.

 

[Cranky]

Ford one some engines made you take the valve covers off to remove intake.

Isn't a small block Mopar the same way? Been a very long time since working on one and only rebuilt a couple many years ago.

 

[YY1]

Funny, I've never had trouble

my wrenches must be thinner

agree you cold hone $20 and install a rebuild kit ($2 per cyl) on the car...if the bleeders are free.