• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Fuel filter location ???

I'm running an Edelbrock pump #EDE1723 (for big block) from Mancini Racing (go to their website under Fuel). It has both 3/8" inlet and 3/8" outlet and can support up to 600 hp; works beautifully for me! And yes, it will fit a 400 block. Also, you asked "What kind of power is a stock pump good for?" First, you typically don't want more than 7 lbs. pressure going to your carburetor(s) because too much pressure will simply overpower and flood your float bowls. Anything beyond 8 lbs. requires a pressure regulator. The EDE1723 puts out 6 lbs., but flowing 100+ gallons per hour (gph), thanks to the 3/8" inlet and 3/8" outlet and internal pumping capacity, it'll support big horsepower.
Good luck!
 
What would you suggest? Something like this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m4862/overview/make/dodge What kind of power is a stock pump good for?
most of those pumps you have are 3-5 pound pumps; 5 on a very good day. to my knowledge there were two kinds of carter pumps like what you have. the 383 and lopo 440 or the hipo 440. the hipo 440 was the better of the two and would produce 8-9 pounds pressure but used the vapor seperator with a return line which bled some pressure off. the 4862 is a 9 pound pump and will need a regulator or some kind of bypass/return to bleed pressure. they will pump some fuel! the 6903 is carter is what i use a lot but i do modify them to help flow and pressure a little. the edelbrock pump is basically a 6903 carter with 3/8" npt inlet and outlet. you really don't need 3/8" npt unless your using braided hose fittings. 3/8" tubing is 5/16" i.d. and a 1/4" npt more than covers that size. the edelbrock does have some internal mods, like a larger transfer passage from the inlet into the bowel. these modifications are fairly easy to do to the 6903 if one is willing to take the pump apart. the easiest route is the edelbrock but not the cheapest. the 6903 is adequate for most street engines, 5.5-6 pounds pressure, but i like playing with them.
 
The one I have now is a Carter 4845. I want to keep things as simple as possible - no pressure regulator. The car will never see the strip.
 
The one I have now is a Carter 4845. I want to keep things as simple as possible - no pressure regulator. The car will never see the strip.
never used that pump. mancini states it's a 5.5-6.5lb pump. if it will do that it's ok. i'd do a pressure and flow check. what i consider the good factory style 2 valve pump is the 4434s.
 
The screen that is on a factory sending unit is about the only filter you should use before the pump which is a good idea so that anything on the bottom of the tank wont get pulled into the pump. You dont want a normal fliter in the suction side of a mechanical fuel pump just the factory sending unit screen will work good as its not to restrictive but it will keep any junk from the bottom of the tank from getting into the pump. As for the brass filters in the carb you can use them if you like but since I race my cars I also remove them from my carbs and run a canister type filter before the carb. I remove them because I like to race my car and want good fuel flow and because of the design of the brass filters they can clog easy and I dont want that as I want very good fuel flow for racing and I feel the canister will flow better then the brass filters and not clog as easy. That may be why your eng builder removes them. But they are fine on a street car and if you want to run them its fine. And if you want to just use the stock type canister in line fuel filter thats also fine. Ron
 
As for the brass filters in the carb you can use them if you like but since I race my cars I also remove them from my carbs and run a canister type filter before the carb. I remove them because I like to race my car and want good fuel flow and because of the design of the brass filters they can clog easy and I dont want that as I want very good fuel flow for racing and I feel the canister will flow better then the brass filters and not clog as easy. That may be why your eng builder removes them. But they are fine on a street car and if you want to run them its fine. And if you want to just use the stock type canister in line fuel filter thats also fine. Ron

Yeah, my engine builder puts a lot of motors together for guys that race them. I bet you are right about removing them for this application.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top