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Fuel Injection in the works for me later ?

Mike Gaines

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Location
Ahwahnee, (Fresno) California
After I get the whole car figured out (launch rpm, shock settings, shift points, tire pressure, wheelie bar height, etc) then I will be happy.
Hope to get somewhere NEAR the 8 second bracket, time well tell.
Feb 22/23 is my next outing to get things sorted out.
______________________________________________
Then....I am considering setting up my car with the Fuel Injection Setup I just bought (pictured). I would run Alcohol and when allowed by the track I would certainly add a big shot of Nitromethane.
I ran Hilborns on my Funny Car back in the 60's, running a mix of Alcohol & Nitromethane for "Run What You Brung" Match Racing.
This setup I have is Enderle but the setup is in excellent condition but I need to buy a surge tank, pump, bracket & drive belts and fuel lines, etc. to install the system. I would have about $3500 in the entire setup when done.
Even though "short" tubes are adequate for my current setup (transbrake, leaving at 5000+RPM) I would still want the "long" tubes for the nostalgia look. Hemi Cars ran the long tubes back in the day because they didn't have transbrakes and were launching at around 2000rpm off the footbrake so the long tubes gave then more power down low.
My motor back in the 60's was a 426 Max Wedge and Hilborn only made the short tubes for that setup. (pictured)

20110624_29.jpg

View attachment 895856 20200109_150618.jpg
 
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______________________________________________
Then....I am considering setting up my car with the Fuel Injection Setup I just bought (pictured). I would run Alcohol and when allowed by the track I would certainly add a big shot of Nitromethane.
I ran Hilborns on my Funny Car back in the 60's, running a mix of Alcohol & Nitromethane for "Run What You Brung" Match Racing.
This setup I have is Enderle but the setup is in excellent condition but I need to buy a surge tank, pump, bracket & drive belts and fuel lines, etc. to install the system. I would have about $3500 in the entire setup when done.
Even though "short" tubes are adequate for my current setup (transbrake, leaving at 5000+RPM) I would still want the "long" tubes for the nostalgia look. Hemi Cars ran the long tubes back in the day because they didn't have transbrakes and were launching at around 2000rpm off the footbrake so the long tubes gave then more power down low.
My motor back in the 60's was a 426 Max Wedge and Hilborn only made the short tubes for that setup. (pictured)





IMG_0070.JPG
i have a hilborn setup with nice tubes, new pg150 pump,fuel shutoff valve, pills,nozzles(gas and alky) and spud for 2000cdn if you're interested







IMG_0070.JPG
 
I assume you're talking about going with an ol' style
mechanical fuel injection, cam or belt driven fuel pump
180a or better/maybe more
barrel valve specific, for alcohol (proper linkages etc.)
with an idle bypass & high speed bypasses
with a mechanical fuel shutoff
going to need to re-plumb most of it too
maybe a new tank/cell upfront
so it doesn't have to pull the full fuel against the g-forces
it works for you not against you
new hoses/soft lines to/for the nozzles,
from the barrel valve or distribution block
a lot easier than the hard lines to deal with changes
especially nozzle changes
will need a bunch of pills to lean or fatten it too
maybe shims or springs for the bypasses etc. etc. etc.

great stuff if you can make it all work

in case you forgot, a little refresher

methanol/alcohol is some nasty ****
you run about 170% more fuel to begin with
can make more power, has a cooling factor too
BUT;
methanol I assume you know already
needs far more maintenance than racegas combo does
more frequent oil changes, fuel system care,
priming the engine to fire it fast, usually gasoline/low grade will work,
someone/help with a primer bottle or a solenoid with primers
& a separate fuel cell/gas to start it easily

anything aluminum or rubber in the system is affected
it needs to be cleaned washed out (gas works great)
extremely & regularly, or you get some nasty white oxidation crap
& it's some nozzle clogging ****, that's stuff sucks ***
that's part of getting the 'free extra HP & cooling'

been there, done that
& the cool factor is almost worth it alone
good luck

Budnicks 49 Ford Business Coupe Pro-Gas #7 Hilborn Hat & tunnel-ram.JPG


Budnicks 23 T Ford Altered 301ci Pete Jackson Injected #1 Fremont 1980.JPG


Budnicks 23 T Ford Altered AA-Gas 6-71 Blown 301ci Donavon (1).jpg


Budnicks 23 T Ford Altered Crower Inj. #1.JPG


Budnicks 23 T Ford Altered 427ci Alky Inj A-A  #1.jpg
 
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I assume you're talking about going with an ol' style
mechanical fuel injection, cam or belt driven fuel pump
180a or better/maybe more
barrel valve specific, for alcohol (proper linkages etc.)
with an idle bypass & high speed bypasses
with a mechanical fuel shutoff
going to need to re-plumb most of it too
maybe a new tank/cell upfront
so it doesn't have to pull the full fuel against the g-forces
it works for you not against you
new hoses/soft lines to/for the nozzles,
from the barrel valve or distribution block
a lot easier than the hard lines to deal with changes
especially nozzle changes
will need a bunch of pills to lean or fatten it too
maybe shims or springs for the bypasses etc. etc. etc.

great stuff if you can make it all work

in case you forgot, a little refresher

methanol/alcohol is some nasty ****
you run about 170% more fuel to begin with
can make more power, has a cooling factor too
BUT;
methanol I assume you know already
needs far more maintenance than racegas combo does
more frequent oil changes, fuel system care,
priming the engine to fire it fast, usually gasoline/low grade will work,
someone/help with a primer bottle or a solenoid with primers
& a separate fuel cell/gas to start it easily

anything aluminum or rubber in the system is affected
it needs to be cleaned washed out (gas works great)
extremely & regularly, or you get some nasty white oxidation crap
& it's some nozzle clogging ****, that's stuff sucks ***
that's part of getting the 'free extra HP & cooling'

been there, done that
& the cool factor is almost worth it alone
good luck

View attachment 896419

View attachment 896420

View attachment 896421

View attachment 896422

View attachment 896423
Bud,
As I have reported before I have run old school Hilborns back in 1967/68 when they were NOT old school, but state of the art.
I am, of course, very familiar with all of the workings and requirements of Methanol fuel as I ran Methanol in my Match Race Funny Car for 2 years PLUS I also ran anywhere from a 40% up 80% load of Nitromethane with the Alky....so, yea, I have been there, done that.
Thanks though for the reminders.
 
Bud,
As I have reported before I have run old school Hilborns back in 1967/68 when they were NOT old school, but state of the art.
I am, of course, very familiar with all of the workings and requirements of Methanol fuel as I ran Methanol in my Match Race Funny Car for 2 years PLUS I also ran anywhere from a 40% up 80% load of Nitromethane with the Alky....so, yea, I have been there, done that.
Thanks though for the reminders.


Hey Mike. Just saw on facebook that NOW you want to sell the hemi engine.
What's up with that buddy?
 
old 65 MoPar engineer bulletin for AFX Hilborn set ups
cool old stuff, kind of tough to see so faded
just thought you'd like it
right up your ol' alley, back in the day
Mopar 65 AFX Hilborn FI Engineering memo from T.T. Coddington to T.M. Hoover #1.jpg
Mopar 65 AFX Hilborn FI Engineering memo from T.T. Coddington to T.M. Hoover #2.jpg
Mopar 65 AFX Hilborn FI Engineering memo from T.T. Coddington to T.M. Hoover #3.jpg
Mopar 65 AFX Hilbron FI Engineering memo from T.T. Coddington to T.M. Hoover #4.jpg
 
Hey Mike. Just saw on facebook that NOW you want to sell the hemi engine.
What's up with that buddy?
Nope...motor is not for sale.
I would sell the entire car for $50,000, after I get it dialed in and run it at the big March Meet at Famoso the first weekend in March.
I think most all guys would sell their race cars for a good price if the offer came up.
I sold my 66 Coronet to a fella in Denmark for $38,000 and got every penny back that I put into it and raced it and had a good time with it for 4 years.
I then bought my 1965 Belvedere with the 440 Six Pack Motor and sold it 3 weeks later to a fella in New Jersey. (he loves the car)
I then bought my 68 Dart 451" RB Motor (10.50/125mph) car, ran it at one AFX Nostalgia Race and sold it that weekend (at the track, during the race) to a fellow racer and friend.
I then bought my current car, the 572" Hemi 64 Belvedere. I will run it until someone wants to buy it (I hope not too soon) and then I would sell it.
I have my eye currently on a 68 Hemi Dart that is a perfect CFX 9.50ET Nostalgia car if I sell the 64 Hemi Belvedere.
Yea, I kinda like buying the cars, getting them up to speed, selling them, moving on and finding a new challenge but I wouldn't consider myself a "flipper".
 
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Nope...motor is not for sale.
I would sell the entire car for $50,000, after I get it dialed in and run it at the big March Meet at Famoso the first weekend in March.
I think most all guys would sell there race cars for a good price if the offer came up.
I sold my 66 Coronet to a fella in Denmark for $38,000 and got every penny back that I put into it and raced it and had a good time with it for 4 years.
I then bought my 1965 Belvedere with the 440 Six Pack Motor and sold it 3 weeks later to a fella in New Jersey. (he loves the car)
I then bought my 68 Dart 451" RB Motor (10.50/125mph) car, ran it at one AFX Nostalgia Race and sold it that weekend (at the track, during the race) to a fellow racer and friend.
I then bought my current car, the 572" Hemi 64 Belvedere. I will run it until someone wants to buy it (I hope not too soon) and then I would sell it.
I have my eye currently on a 68 Hemi Dart that is a perfect CFX 9.50ET Nostalgia car if I sell the 64 Hemi Belvedere.
Yea, it kinda like buying the cars, getting them up to speed, selling them, moving on and finding a new challenge.


Wow...So you really don't get attached to any of them?
Just more of a Flipper!
And I thought I was bad because I cant sell any of my prize possessions
Good luck on the sale.
 
Wow...So you really don't get attached to any of them?
Just more of a Flipper!
And I thought I was bad because I cant sell any of my prize possessions
Good luck on the sale.
No....I am not a 'FLIPPER'.
My cars are always for sale. I don't really buy them to sell. I buy them because I really like making them "right" and dialing them in and then running them. "IF" someone wants to buy the car I currently have and the price is right, sure, it will sell it.
My current challenge is to get this 64 Hemi Car as close to 9.00 ET as possible.
Like I said earlier in this thread...I have to figure out a lot of things to get it off the line. All the components and parts are in place to run 9.00 (or maybe better). The
Shock settings/tire pressure/ladder bar adjustments/launch rpm/shift points are what I will get figured out on my 2 day test & tune weekend coming up.
It must have a real low 1.30 and probably at 60' in the high 1.20's and then the rest will fall in line.
Then I can buy another one and do it all over again if someone wants to buy this one.
Make Sense ?
Mike
 
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..had issues with the old motor so never got it running properly..new motor has raised intake ports so couldnt use this setup

DSCN5923.JPG DSCN5925.JPG
 
What do you mean by "raised intake ports"...just curious, thanks, mike
...i have the millennium head now that has a raised port height and uses a 10 bolt GM style rather than the stock 16 bolt configuration :)
 
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