Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
You mentioned in your 1st post that you "connected some wires the wrong way". What did you mean by that? If it was the battery, that would have taken out your fusible link.
Ammeter terminals, thought I said that, sorry if that wasn’t clearYou mentioned in your 1st post that you "connected some wires the wrong way". What did you mean by that? If it was the battery, that would have taken out your fusible link.
If you are checking resistance to ground from the Alt output stud you must disconnect all wires that are attached to the stud to get a proper reading. You really cannot check for grounds in a wire unless both ends of the wire are disconnected. Ohmmeters are for checking isolated circuits.Did a bit more diags yesterday. The alternator has a Carquest sticker on, code seems to be a 100A alternator. No idea why, there’s nothing that would need that capacity, but whatever. The resistance from the output stud to ground is about 14 ohms. I have no idea if that’s ok, but it’s not a short to ground. I have an alternator (a 1 wire GM) on my 57 Plymouth and the resistance on that is about 38 ohms, so same order of magnitude. Any thoughts on that?
The reason I ordered the repro fusible link, even at that price, is that it does indeed come with the correct blade connector, and there are 2 wires anyway, one being the fused link and the other is just a wire. So by the time I’d pulled the old one apart, tried to detach the connector, sworn at it, cleaned it etc. it would be another couple of weeks and I’d like to drive it before the weather makes that unpleasant.
So I don’t think I’ve found an obvious cause except the cigar lighter, which I can’t imagine is it. When I get the new link installed I’ll meter it all again and see if I can find anything. Last think I guess could be the starter relay, but that checks out OK too.
thats mind "melt !"
Turns out both ammeter posts are grounded. Bear in mind this tested ok on the bench. Took dash out again, looks like the ammeter moved slightly down in the housing and grounded on the cluster casing. Which is probably why it was ok lying down!I think I found the problem! Having tested everything separately I put the dash back in. Lo and behold, there is a short from the positive to negative battery leads (battery not connected). Unplugged the bulkhead connection, no short.
Turns out both ammeter posts are grounded. Bear in mind this tested ok on the bench. Took dash out again, looks like the ammeter moved slightly down in the housing and grounded on the cluster casing. Which is probably why it was ok lying down!
Used some electrical tape around the posts to test my theory and it checked out fine. Will insulate the posts with heat shrink and hope I’m good to go.