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Fusible Link

easyrider

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I have a 318 cu. in. engine in a 1965 Plymouth Satellite and had a under the dash wiring problem that resulted in frying my wiring harness. I was wondering why my fusible link didn't burn in two. It did fry the coating off of the fusible link wire, but the wire itself didn't burn in two. I had a gray color fusible link wire. Was this the right amp wire for my car?? What is the correct amp wire and color for my application?? Thanks!!
 
I believe your fusible link should be 2 wires sizes smaller then the wire it is in line with. Someone jump in here if I'm wrong.
 
I believe the fusible link should be 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire in the line. That is what I did in my car when I bypassed the bulk head connector for the amp guage.
 
Piss on fusible links, I won't touch them (they don't use them anymore for a reason)!!! I replace them with Mega Fuses sized accordingly to the wire capacity. If using the fusible links don't they come with a amp rating????
 
2 Ga. smaller Diameter, 4 numbers higher for the fusible link

So
-18 gauge would protect 14 gauge....
-14 gauge would protect 10 gauge..
So on and so forth...
Don't know why its wording comes across so confusing, but tends to have folks scratching their head for a while

I'm with 747. Changeable fuse or circuit breaker is a lot easier to deal with..
 
So if my car has a 16 gauge fusible link, what size fuse would I have to install to get the same circuit protection?
 
For the OP's situation, it appears that the overload current was not much in excess of the link's fusing current. With a slight overload, it will take a loooong time for any fuse to blow (a link OR a discrete fuse). It takes many minutes to blow with a slight overload and the wiring in the OP's case got hot enough to melt insulation, etc, beofre that fusing time was reached.

ANY fuse has a time versus current curve that depends on the design of the fuse. The key chracteristic is how long at what % of overcurrent it takes to burn out ANY fuse. Discrete fuses are NO different from fusible links in that regard.. .none, zip nada. So if you think a fuse will protect you better in the OP's situation, you are absolutely fooling yourself.

The only way to have a discrete fuse blow faster in a mild overcurrent condition is to use a fast blow type of fuse. But then you suffer from far more frequent 'nuisance' blowing of fuses caused by short transient overcurrent flows; these are common in automobiles with all the sudden changes in current and voltage with loads being switched on and off and so forth.

The fusible link is a good solution for automotive uses in the primary circuit feed line for this exact reason; it will blow immediately with a dead short but not suffer from 'nusisance blows' with transient load changes.

The problems with a single large fuse are:
1. The holder has to be high quality and most users don't get one. You just get an easier to change and resize fusing element but often at the cost of less reliable mechanical connections. You go from 2 connections to 6 when you go from a fusible link to a fuse holder with screw terminals.
2. And again, the typical large current fuse is a slow blow type, not a fast blow, so you are in no different position vs a link. If you can find a appropriate fast blow, you have to size it up even more to avoid nuisance blows, and you then again lose protection from slight overcurrent situation.

If you build a fusible link, you don't use just any wire. You use fusble link wire. It has a much finer stranding that resists annealing and breakage from vibration, and it has a high temp, thick insulation. The thicker insulation makes the thermal blowing characterictic more consistent.

- - - Updated - - -

Can't say the color exactly, but the '62 FSM for my Dodge B Body lists a 12 ga fusible link. Look for that characteristic more than color.
 
Piss on fusible links, I won't touch them (they don't use them anymore for a reason)!!! I replace them with Mega Fuses sized accordingly to the wire capacity. If using the fusible links don't they come with a amp rating????

I'm not sure I agree. There are two factors to consider. The first is the amperage that blows the fuse. The second is the time it takes to blow the fuse when the amperage goes too high. A fusible link blows slowly, and if sized properly does its job, but allows for short spikes in power (like a fan or wiper motor starting up). Most fuses are immediate blow fuses; some "slow blow" fuses take longer, but I still think quicker than a fusible link. This means you either need to up the amperage on the fuse (not good), or potentially have nuisance fuse issues.

I'm not saying a fuse can't be used, and they should be used for individual circuits. But a fusible link for the overall system works pretty good when done right...

My $0.02
 
Fuse link wire - 16 AMP Dark Blue. Wire feeds a 12 Ga. red wire going to ammeter. All interior voltage should be going through your ammeter. The ammeter feeds the fuse box. The fuse box should be protecting every thing in the passenger compartment. Why would you expect the fuse link to blow first? If you are going to use a fuse holder find one with a 12 Ga. wire that will support a 40 Amp. circuit. Plug it into the same bulkhead port where the fuse link wire was. Would start with a heavy duty 30 Amp. fuse and go to a 40 Amp. only if you blow the 30. Lot simpler than soldiering in fuse link wires. By no means wrap and tap this or any other wire together. Always soldier and use shrink wrap on permanent connections. Will save you a lot of headaches.
 
So where can you buy fusible links I. need the one that goes from the starter solenoid to the bulk head connector 70 charger
 
So where can you buy fusible links I. need the one that goes from the starter solenoid to the bulk head connector 70 charger

Get ahold of Mark at MAD Electrical. He sells everything you will need and is very knowledgeable about our cars electrical systems.
 
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