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Green bearing

Caterpillars

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Thinking about replace the rear drums with some disk brakes. The rear is 83/4 and was told I had to put a green bearing kit in the rear or the rear disk set-up won't work. Any member know the answer? Present setup is drums on the front and back..

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Thinking about replace the rear drums with some disk brakes. The rear is 83/4 and was told I had to put a green bearing kit in the rear or the rear disk set-up won't work. Any member know the answer? Present setup is drums on the front and back..

View attachment 1813852
You can run either. The green is preferred for disc application. Who's rear disc kit are you using? I would discuss this with them.
 
Thinking about replace the rear drums with some disk brakes. The rear is 83/4 and was told I had to put a green bearing kit in the rear or the rear disk set-up won't work. Any member know the answer? Present setup is drums on the front and back..

View attachment 1813852
The reason to go with the ball bearings is so the axle/ disc doesn't float. That's the caliper/pistons job.
You need some float/play with the factory bearings.
 
The question has been discussed on here in the past and some have used the factory taypered bearings with the disk conversion. What effects it has on the proper operation I don't know.

I've also heard some say that rear disk didn't really help that much compared to the factory drums.
 
You should convert the front to disc brakes and only convert the rear if you are interested in appearances.
If you are a driver of average or barely above average skill, the rear discs will not result in better braking performance. Rear discs will help on a road course but will you be racing the car that way?
I made the rear disc swap in 2006 entirely for the looks of them. Drums were clearly visible through my rear wheels and to me, they looked cheap. The disc brakes looked like performance so that is why I bought mine.

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Doctor Diff sells a variety of brake and suspension parts, I got my brake kit from him. The kit I got did NOT require the "Green" bearings, I needed wheel bearings anyway so I gave them a try. I wore out the first set in about 8000 miles. When this second set go bad, I'm going back to the tapered design.
 
My Dr Diff rear (Mustang kit) discs are installed with tapered bearings and work very well. I would recommend keeping the axle clearance at the minimum of the range. How much fluid volume would .008" of piston movement cause? I can't believe you could even feel the extra pedal stroke to cause the pads to close the .008". And you have superior bearings!
Mike
 
I cheated on my 65. When I got the Strange S60 from the Doc some years ago, I ordered it with the late Ford truck sealed roller non adjustable bearing housing ends and axles to match. You could put that type of housing end onto an 8.75 or D60 thats using the Set7 tapered roller and get axles to match.
 
Thinking about replace the rear drums with some disk brakes. The rear is 83/4 and was told I had to put a green bearing kit in the rear or the rear disk set-up won't work. Any member know the answer? Present setup is drums on the front and back..

View attachment 1813852
Thanks for all your help. Think I'll do the front disk and drum in the rear. This car is pushing close to 600 HP with equal toque (496 stroker with six pac) and I was thinking about putting a dana 60 in the rear (will do rear disk then). After brakes it needs power steering. Right now this is like driving a truck.

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Rear Disc are basically eye candy only for any type of street driving.
The main reason that most modern cars are 4 wheel disc is not because of improved braking but due to reduced cost of parts and time saved when manufacturing cars.
There are less parts in a rear assembly and the assembly is installed as one part. Just connect brake lines and parking brake cables. No adjustments required.
But rear brake bias is always around 25% or less.
If you want to really improve the braking, use performance rotors and disc pads.
Top quality parts through out the brake system your brake fluid fresh.
 
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