1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
I’m just tickled pink, to come to find out I have SureGrip. Lol ! That makes the 2.94 worth holding on to. It’s not a bad rear end at all, gear wise. I just prefer a 2.76
Clutch style or Cone?
I’m just tickled pink, to come to find out I have SureGrip. Lol ! That makes the 2.94 worth holding on to. It’s not a bad rear end at all, gear wise. I just prefer a 2.76
Was it a paper thin gasket ?I have had fine success with just a dry gasket multiple times. The key is clean dry surfaces.
15 can’t be right for the universal joints. I’m also needing torque for third member. You know, the 10 nuts. I don’t get it, everyone else calls them 10 bolts ?15 lb/ft and a dab of blue loctite, good to go.
And don't ever call it a '10 bolt' again!!
For the 8-3/4, 15 is what it calls for, which is a fairly standard number for a 1/4" bolt. The bigger rears call for 170-200 inch pounds which is right in the same neighborhood, 15 converts to 180 inch pounds.15 can’t be right for the universal joints. I’m also needing torque for third member. You know, the 10 nuts. I don’t get it, everyone else calls them 10 bolts ?
Looking good, that gasket is a lot thicker than mine. I used Permatex Aviation gasket maker on all surfaces and a paper thin gasket. It’s been 3 days now and no leaks. We’ll see how it holds up when it gets hot. This is my first time using Aviation gasket maker. I like that it’s a lot easier to use compared to Silicone. But I don’t like, that it’s the color of oil. Makes a seem look like it’s seeping oil, lol !
No covers on 8-3/4 Mopars. I wish there was, fixing a leak would be a breeze.my experience with stamped steel covers and paper gaskets on 50 year old cars is that the cover is always twinged a bit during removal. they come off hard. using a paper gasket with silicone sealant is the way to go, but the best way is a new cover and the best covers are not stamped steel.