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Had spark -- now no spark -- dumb mistake

43tutor

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2:58 AM
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Dec 10, 2011
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Location
Upstate SC
Ok, so I'll be the first to admit I made a mistake. My car was running and now I have no spark. Here is the mistake. I was cranking the engine over with the coil wire off the distributor cap and didn't have it grounded, yep I know that was a mistake; brain fart.... Now I have no spark. So let's go beyond the mistake....

I need some help with the diagnosis. With the key on, I have 5.5 volts on the positive terminal of the coil and approximately 9 to 10 volts while cranking. With the wires off the coil I have 1.2 ohms across the + and - terminals of the coil and between the negative terminal and the center it reads around 6500 ohms.

Ballast resistor checks within specs as shown in the service manual. I even tried the spare ballast resister that I carry in the car.

I checked the lead out of the distributor and get 326 ohms across the male and female connector.

I'm thinking I damaged the ECU. I have 12 volts going into the ECU. All grounds are good.

I really don't won't to start throwing parts at it. I do not have a spare ECU to try. Any suggestions?

The battery might be a little low with the cranking I was doing. Bottom line even with battery low, no spark.
 
I would run a jumper right to the positive side of the coil from the battery. Basically hot wire it. If it starts then Its its not necessarily the ECU. Well..anyway that started a 1970 fury with a burnt up harness under dash for me once
 
I would run a jumper right to the positive side of the coil from the battery. Basically hot wire it. If it starts then Its its not necessarily the ECU. Well..anyway that started a 1970 fury with a burnt up harness under dash for me once

this will do nothing for a vehicle with electronic ignition.
 
No, It was an electronic ignition and the key switch would not work and had to jump the starter relay too. I had to look this up because its been awhile. The Key switch start is 12 v on the coil side of ballast and 12v run is on the ecu side of ballast resistor according to the schematic I found.
 
Check the fuse link wires from the battery to the bulk head at the firewall. Appears you have no battery feed to the ignition switch. Which means no power to the ecu, voltage regulator on ignition 1 or the starter relay when the switch is on ignition 2 which energizes the starter relay
 
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