Has Anyone Had There 904/727 Rebuilt?... What did it Cost?

[Satellite72]

I took a quick drive in the plymouth yesterday afternoon and got to thinking about the condition of my 904 trans that I have; Last Summer I did some engine upgrades that required me to get a kickdown kit (Lokar style). I got the kickdown adjusted correctly and it seems to shift fine, so I forgot about it and went on. However, I can't help but be a little concerned about how long the car ran with an improperly adjusted kickdown. Years ago, when I got the car, and when my engine/trans knowledge was limited, it had a rebuilt 318 & 904 with less than a thousand miles on it (have documentation). I drove it about 10 miles a day for a year as my primary car and then after drove it rarely up until now. It seems like it always shifted a tad earlier than it should, but not knowing about transmissions thought it was normal for a mopar (I know, kinda foolish). It wasn't until I started replacing the existing kickdown that I realized how loose the kickdown had been all that time. Maybe I shouldn't be too concerned right now, but I'm wondering how much damage was really done in those over 5000 miles of driving and if I might be getting close to a rebuild. I feel that it is slightly slipping in the 55-60 mph range, but I can't verify that. Maybe it could just be the band adjustment?...idk, but looking at the worst case senario I was just curious if anyone has had a rebuild done and how much it typically runs as far as cost goes?

 

[racedodge]

rebuilds range from $400-$2200 dependent upon who does them for you, if they have to R&R the trans, and what components you want installed (i.e. OE or HP). Wish I could be more specific, but with all the possibilities, I would be typing a thesis.

 

[66coronet500]

Getting my 1966 727 done right now. Changing the input splines from 18 to 24 for newer style torque converter, red bands, bolt in sprag, new torque converter etc. Told tranny shop wanted it to handle 500hp. Costing around $1200

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Got a quote a year ago for my 904 and for rebuilding a 727 I had lying around. Similiar prices for both. Stock rebuild $900, to handle 500hp was $1250. You can also buy an aftermarket 727 or 904 from B&M, Cope Racing (CRT), etc. for around $1200.

 

[67 coronet]

i bought my parts from cope(crt)and had someone assemble it for me here in vegas.saved a ton of cash,only spent about $500 for parts and labor!ask around to any good trans shops in your area to see what they would charge if you bring in your own parts,you might be suprised.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

$700 with good assembly tricks,extra for goodies

 

[Satellite72]

Thanks for the input guys. I figured it had to be at the very least five or six hundred for a stock build. The previous owners documentation showed nearly $400 for his rebuild, but that was in the 90's. Just one other question if anyone knows... what part gets most damaged when the tranny shifts into third a little to quick?

 

[racedodge]

Thanks for the input guys. I figured it had to be at the very least five or six hundred for a stock build. The previous owners documentation showed nearly $400 for his rebuild, but that was in the 90's. Just one other question if anyone knows... what part gets most damaged when the tranny shifts into third a little to quick?

nothing if it shifts clean. now if there is a reason as to why it is shifting into 3rd too quick at WOT, then it may be the governor or a throttle pressure adjustment (which can be done on your kickdown rod). If it is shifting too quick (based upon your assessment) when just cruising... well, the transmission (when not put under a load) often shifts into 3rd as low as 28mph on average. I am sure there is a finite mph rating out there, but that has been my observation.

really need more information to see if it is a shift overlap from 2-3 or if it just shifts at a rpm that you do not like or unfamiliar with.

 

[oldbee]

Per racedodge-shift overlap on 2-3 is probably the kickdown band releasing late-it'll go first , I guess..If your shifts are fairly "quick" with no "sliding into", I wouldn't worry about it,could go for a long time.

 

[MarPar]

$700 with good assembly tricks,extra for goodies

Ha! your extra goodies by themselves are worth more than 700!!!! who you crappin'??? lol

:bootyshake::tongueflap::banana::banana: :downtown: :weg:

 

[MarPar]

stupid question...have you checked the trans fluid? (i am assuming you did, but it hasn't been mentioned yet)

 

[racedodge]

Ha! your extra goodies by themselves are worth more than 700!!!! who you crappin'??? lol

:bootyshake::tongueflap::banana::banana: :downtown: :weg:

lol, thats what I was thinking, but was like... whatever lol :icon_cheers:

 

[Satellite72]

The fluid level looks fine, as does the color. As far as the shifting goes... I feel like it shifts pretty good now that I've got an after market kickdown that seems to do the trick (I got it to shift correctly through a few trial and error adjustments). Before my engine work was done I used to manualy up-shift the auto on the floor and it would slide a bit going from 2nd - 3rd. That ofcoarse was when the kickdown wasn't right. It doesn't seem to do that now that it's adjusted. I think now it shifts into 3rd at around 38 mph under mid-range acceleration... maybe 45 if I'm heavy on the pedal. I'm sure the previous 2nd - 3rd sliding wasn't good for it, but hopefully it isn't too far gone. I'm sure it's time for a new transmission filter, so I may have the local tranny guy take a look at the bands why he has the pan off.

 

[451Mopar]

Like most things, they are easy to rebuild if you know what your doing and have the correct tools. The cost of the replacement parts for a stock rebuild is pretty cheap, under $100 (without converter), what you paying for is labor, and maybe a warranty.

Most hot street cars (usually less than 500 HP), will get the HP clutches and Kolene steels, maybe better bands, and a shift kit, maybe $200-$250 in hard parts, and about an extra hour labor to do the shift kit.

A true high performance rebuild can get expensive really quick. The aluminum splines on the front gear of my 727 were cracked and ready to strip on the last rebuild, and the nice 4-pinion billet gear with thrust bearing was $500. The Billet steel drum was another $500+. The Ultimate rear sprag was $200. The Billet aluminum rear drum, lightened sun shell, max lug race pump, manual valve body, billet servos, and such really add up. Not to mention the cost of a custom torque converter ($1,000+.)

And if you think that is getting expensive, price out a performance OD trans for a diesel truck! $8,000+ for an ATS Stage6 48RE , or $11,000+ for an ATS stage6 Allison 1000 trans

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Ha! your extra goodies by themselves are worth more than 700!!!! who you crappin'??? lol

:bootyshake::tongueflap::banana::banana: :downtown: :weg:

lol, thats what I was thinking, but was like... whatever lol :icon_cheers:

That's why I said "plus goodies"
Everytime I hurt or blow something up,I do my do homework and upgrade to avoid those painfull ka-blewies.
So again to the OP,the goodies needed depend on what HP your at and what you plan on doing with it.My junk is 90% street driven and taken to the track for MOPAR & Nostalgia stuff.By NO means am I any kinda trans expert,just another addicted go fast guy with many ka-booms:grin:

 

[racedodge]

...NO means am I any kinda trans expert,just another addicted go fast guy with many ka-booms:grin:

but you are dedicated!!! and that, my friend, plus the fact that you use a 727 instead of a 'glide is everything to me! keep it up!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

but you are dedicated!!! and that, my friend, plus the fact that you use a 727 instead of a 'glide is everything to me! keep it up!

I just never want to give up my pushbutton shifter;)