• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Having an issue with my 64

The weather is going to be really nice the today and tomorrow Bob...
 
I would have to say it’s the intake manifold gasket.

I think that is a logical point to start with. Glad you are back on your feet again.
 
I think you may be trying to chase 2 or 3 problems all at the same time. First I'd like to know how much oil the engine lost in that short drive. Even if it's close to a quart with no oil in the coolant I'd not worry about that for the moment. Likewise if there's no increase in oil level (from coolant getting into the oil pan) ignore that too for the time being. I'm more concerned about if you have spark after the engine quits? It's obvious by what you say that the engine is CAPABLE of running properly. If it isn't flooding itself for some reason I'd bet on a spark problem.
The car been started several times in the days proceeding it going to get the head pipes put on it. So oil loss during that period would have been an accumulative amount. The car starts extremely quick when the key is turned on. It’s got everything new from the ignition switch all the way to the engine spark plug wires, coil wire, spark plugs, everything has been checked. After the car sits for a short period of time it’ll start right up again run another 30 or 40 seconds and quit again, it’s almost like the engine normalizes after the vacuum loss and then it’ll start, I seriously don’t think it’s electrical or spark issue but it’s surely frustrating.
 
Last edited:
What are your vacuum readings on your vacuum gauge ? During all phases.... start, fast idle, idle, load, etc.
 
Tell us about the rest of the exhaust. U said the problem started right after the head pipes were installed. Sounds like something is plugged up. Kim
 
Kim might have nailed it. I assumed the car has headers. If it doesn't, and it has a heat riser installed, it could be frozen closed, or installed backwards. That will give exactly the symptoms of running you describe.
 
The guys that have replied are much better informed than I am. I flat out admit that. I wondered if maybe the problem you are experiencing is vapor lock. Not sure if it would even matter and I am not sure about other years, but I believe that our 64 only came with one fuel line. Sorry if that was an ignorant suggestion, all the comments that were made seem possible to me and I didn't mean to annoy anyone.
 
Tell us about the rest of the exhaust. U said the problem started right after the head pipes were installed. Sounds like something is plugged up. Kim
That's what I was thinking, sounds like a clogged muffler. Would explain the vacuum dropping.
 
The car been started several times in the days proceeding it going to get the head pipes put on it. So oil loss during that period would have been an accumulative amount. The car starts extremely quick when the key is turned on. It’s got everything new from the ignition switch all the way to the engine spark plug wires, coil wire, spark plugs, everything has been checked. After the car sits for a short period of time it’ll start right up again run another 30 or 40 seconds and quit again, it’s almost like the engine normalizes after the vacuum loss and then it’ll start, I seriously don’t think it’s electrical or spark issue but it’s surely frustrating.
Another simple test you can do is after its running spray choke cleaner or equivlant around intake at heads to see if idle will pick up . This will show if intake is leaking , and I really think it is .
 
Remove the crankcase vent and pcv and plug the holes, connect a vacuum gauge to the dipstick tube. If it registers vacuum the intake gasket is leaking on the valley side.
 
Another simple test you can do is after its running spray choke cleaner or equivlant around intake at heads to see if idle will pick up . This will show if intake is leaking , and I really think it is .
I use my propane torch. Just open the valve, but don't light it. Sweep it around the top of your intake. Wherever the idle picks up, there is your leak.
 
Another simple test you can do is after its running spray choke cleaner or equivlant around intake at heads to see if idle will pick up . This will show if intake is leaking , and I really think it is .
The problem with that is it doesn’t stay running long enough for me to grab a can and go all the way around the manifold so I’m just going on the assumption and yes I understand what that word means that it is the intake manifold gasket that is bad. Once that’s changed I’m hoping the problem is alleviated. The leak has to be huge and it may show up during disassembly. It doesn’t miss, it just quits.
 
Last edited:
I had a mid 80s van last year that the coil was the issue .
Similar symptoms as you described , could keep it running when feathering the throttle but would die at idle .
Fresh engine might be the cause of the oil consumption?
 
Let me get this all straight. Starts right up. Idles ok then quits. Does it start to run rough and then quit? Or just stop running clean? Will it restart immediately after it quits? If it had a vacuum leak it should idle rough. If the exhaust was plugged you wouldn’t have made it home from the muffler shop.
Doug
 
Once it warms up, I’ll pull the valve covers it takes about 30 to 40 seconds for the vacuum to leak down using a gauge I think the gauge read 12 inches of vacuum.
It is not clear if you mean vacuum is OK at 12 inches until u remove a valve cover or it leaks down after running 30-40 secs? If the latter and your power brakes not good looks like u should pull the intake manifold and redo its gaskets. I expect if you blow some smoke in the vicinity when starting u will see where it gets sucked into the manifold. Good luck I expect all the problems have this same source.
 
It is not clear if you mean vacuum is OK at 12 inches until u remove a valve cover or it leaks down after running 30-40 secs? If the latter and your power brakes not good looks like u should pull the intake manifold and redo its gaskets. I expect if you blow some smoke in the vicinity when starting u will see where it gets sucked into the manifold. Good luck I expect all the problems have this same source.
It only runs about 30 to 40 seconds before it stops. It doesn’t cut out it’s not like it’s running out of gas, it doesn’t buck it just quits. Soon as the weather warms up and I can make myself some space in the garage I’m going to pull the manifold and replace the intake manifold gasket.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top