Having to drill out and tap an exhaust manifold stud on the 383

[bigmanjbmopar]

Of course it has to be one of the ones in a water jacket, anything special I should know? It's drivers side front first one. snapped off during disassembly and now I have to drill it out since it snapped so close to the block.

 

[moparmarks]

Try a torch and some bees wax. Also a reverse drill bit works great.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Is any of the stud still above the deck ?

 

[RRDOUG]

try this

Try a torch and some bees wax. Also a reverse drill bit works great.

I did mine,exact same one.I drilled a smaller hole.,then kept stepping up and getting it more centered as I had to.Then when you get close, you use a tool that is like a round file .We also used a right angle drill and went through the inspection cover hole.My buddy was up top holding the drill,I was down looking at the centerness of the file/drill bit telling him witch way to go(up ,down,or side to side)till it got really close to the threads,then we stopped,tried to pick out the threads with a pick,then we chased it with a tap.I borrowed that milling file/bit from a local machine shop owner.He was the one that told us how to do it.Hope it makes sence!!!

 

[Mark B]

You can usually weld thick flat washer to the stud you may be able to get it out with a pair of vise grips. Use stainless welding rod it is a lot tougher and flows better than regular steel rods.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Clean it up real good. Take a nut and weld it to the broken stud from the inside. Build it up real good until the weld is flush with the outside of the nut. Let cool completely. Take a torch and heat the head to a dull cherry around the stud and back it out nut and all. It'll come right out.

 

[ga66mopar]

Try a torch and some bees wax. Also a reverse drill bit works great.

A guy showed me the bees wax trick at a machine shop. I would have never guessed that would work. It's amazing how you can heat a siezed bolt than stuck a block of bees wax on the bolt wait a few seconds then the bolt easily screws out.

 

[shag766]

bummer

Try a torch and some bees wax. Also a reverse drill bit works great.

i have seen this one done by an old machinist. surprised the heck out of me how slick it was.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Clean it up real good. Take a nut and weld it to the broken stud from the inside. Build it up real good until the weld is flush with the outside of the nut. Let cool completely. Take a torch and heat the head to a dull cherry around the stud and back it out nut and all. It'll come right out.

That's why I asked how much was sticking out, if any. I've had the best luck doing it this way. One tip - heat the stud and nut up with a torch before you weld. You'll get better penetration that way. The wax trick works very well also, but the stud can't be too hot or the wax will just run off and/or catch fire.


:campfire:

 

[Meep-Meep]

Get the largest drill bit you can without cutting into the head, center it really well and push hard. It's very likely that the bit will grab before you are all the way through and screw the stud right into the water jacket. Then just shake it out through one of the freeze plug holes.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Well there was only about 1 mm of stud left so I had to shave it flat and have started drilling out the stud taking a break right now but about one bit away from getting to a point to where I can tap the hole, trying to see if I can save the threads and just drill out the stud but if not I have a threader ready. Do I use lock tight on the new stud? what prevents it from leaking coolant? Also what kind of stud should I get? does somebody sell them or can I just use a hardware store one?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I like using high temp silicone. Red Permatex brand is the best.

 

[RRDOUG]

red permatex on threads

I like using high temp silicone. Red Permatex brand is the best.

Put the permatex on the stud.As far as the stud,,,I got mine at local parts store.The threads are different on each side.And they had different lengths to.I cant remember what to tell you to get.Look at one thats left on the car for length and thread size.You have to know what the thread size is for the chaser??I think is fine thread in the head and coarse thread for the outside to attach the manifold.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I just ordered a new bolt kit from classic industries $32 kit has both sides in it. Needed to replace one of the sleeves anyway looks like someone broke one on the passenger side they welded the sleeve to the stud and re installed it. lol so I will have a couple extra ones in anyone needs one.

Will work on it this weekend hopefully either the rest of the old stud drills out clean or the hole threads out right and all goes well should be pretty cut and dry and I will get some red permatex too thanks. It's nice to have a back up engine ready to drop in if needed lol just need to refresh all the gaskets and seals good winter time fun in the cave ;)

 

[coloradodave]

"I think is fine thread in the head and coarse thread for the outside to attach the manifold."

Actually, just the opposite. Coarse thread in the head (3/8"X16tpi). I like ARP thread sealer from Summit. Seals really well.

 

[daredevil]

If I drill I always use the reverse drillbit. You get lucky quite often.

 

[moparmarks]

Get the largest drill bit you can without cutting into the head, center it really well and push hard. It's very likely that the bit will grab before you are all the way through and screw the stud right into the water jacket. Then just shake it out through one of the freeze plug holes.

This usually happens when using a reverse bit but it spins the stud out instead of in. I have several extractor sets, easyouts, but hardly ever use them. Reverse drill bit works great.

I use Permatex Avation sealer on all my wet bolts.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Well got the hole re threaded and now just waiting on the new bolt kit. Stud threads are 3/8" x 16 in case anyone else has to do this. Just need the goop now! Thanks guys.