Header Gaskets question(s)

[Rockett]

Been doing this almost 50 years. I've had employees ask me for answers.Some were short, one -word answers, as I knew they had the brains and ambition to figure it out on their own. Others needed instructions on which way to push the toilet bowl lever. I suspect you're the former.

Yeah, I'm sure I can figure it out as I go, since it's far from brain surgery. However, guys like you doing this for 50 years could likely give me the short & simple answer so that I save time trying to reinvent the wheel. After every job, I could write a "cheat sheet" & save others a lot of time solving all the mysteries! But, I guess you're saying that would kill all the fun! LOL.
For now, however, your answer is, "Leave the header alone & take it out from the top."

 

[WileE]

Yeah, I'm sure I can figure it out as I go, since it's far from brain surgery. However, guys like you doing this for 50 years could likely give me the short & simple answer so that I save time trying to reinvent the wheel. After every job, I could write a "cheat sheet" & save others a lot of time solving all the mysteries! But, I guess you're saying that would kill all the fun! LOL.
For now, however, your answer is, "Leave the header alone & take it out from the top."

You'll get a better sense of satisfaction figuring it out on your own.

 

[Rockett]

You'll get a better sense of satisfaction figuring it out on your own.

 

[ynst]

I'm going to replace my steering box soon & it looks like that job will require removing the header to get it out. I'll need new header gaskets then, correct?

Any recommendation on materials or brands or suppliers for header gaskets?
('69 Road Runner, 383 4bbl, 4spd, power steering, no air)

The collector gasket: I'm not sure what size to order. I think my headers are Hedman. What's the likely size of the collector gasket? Is there any "donut" gasket there where the pipe connects to the collector?

I'm trying to get all the parts that I'll need ordered now. Thanks for any advice or comments!

When I rebuilt the power steering box in my kid brother's Charger RT back in '70 I just rolled the box out the back.

Unbolt it, raise the column and disconnect the flex joint then tilt the box out towards the rear.

That car had the stock Magnum headers. Don't know what your aftermarket header clearance issues are w/o any pictures.

Collector gaskets? I use sheet copper. Been using sheet copper for years. Even used it for head gaskets on my 331 hemi for years. As long as it's not deformed, you can anneal it and re-use it. If it's crushed, though, you'll need to toss it and install a new one.

Flange gaskets? I use Felpro and coat both sides with high temp silicone sealer and let it set up for 10 to 12 hours before firing the engine.

 

[WileE]

View attachment 861961

All that ... comes with figuring it.out on your own

 

[Rockett]

All that ... comes with figuring it.out on your own

Spoiler Alert: Removing the power steering box on a ‘69 Road Runner 383 with Headman headers....
Had to remove the battery & tray, remove header bolts, remove spark plugs, pull motor mount bolts & lift the engine about 2”, remove starter bolts & pull starter around the header & pull the header after removing the torsion bar. Of course the pitman arm is pulled & linkage pulled out of the way underneath, & steering coupler pulled off the box. Steering box comes right off the frame & drops to the floor. It’s about 35 lbs. Great fun.

 

[ynst]

I guess there's something to be said for stock exhaust when it comes to doing repairs.

 

[Rockett]

I guess there's something to be said for stock exhaust when it comes to doing repairs.

Always a love/hate relationship with headers!
Realizing that something as simple as a starter replacement = all header bolts coming out!

 

[Should be playing golf]

Always a love/hate relationship with headers!
Realizing that something as simple as a starter replacement = all header bolts coming out!

That's what you get for having power steering you woos. By the way any dead soft aluminum works great on messed up head and header flange surfaces.

 

[Should be playing golf]

Looks like someone double nutted the header studs. Not really necessary if you torque the nuts down to about 35ft.lbs. and use anti-seize on the studs. By the way studs are always better if you can go that route cause you won't be messing with the cooling channels in the heads and have to drain the anti-freeze every time you have to mess with a header bolt. Also, don't forget to re-torque the nuts to 35 lbs. after running the car for a while. This will re-seat the header gasket.

 

[Should be playing golf]

View attachment 861961

Perfect!!! That was my garage!

 

[ynst]

If you can live with the studs (vs. bolts) things are a LOT easier.

Using bolts requires draining the coolant because some, if not all, the holes are open ended into the cooling system.

I use plumber's thread sealant or aviation gasket cement on the studs when I install them in the head to prevent coolant leaks.

 

[1967coronet]

As far as header gaskets I have had the best luck with regular fel pro metalic exhaust manifold gaskets.
Re tighten once after the 1st heat cycle, star washers used for lock washers.

That and having rubber ended pipe hangers so things can flex a little.

 

[ynst]

As far as header gaskets I have had the best luck with regular fel pro metalic exhaust manifold gaskets.
Re tighten once after the 1st heat cycle, star washers used for lock washers.

That and having rubber ended pipe hangers so things can flex a little.

Me, too but no star washers, just stock setup (but I have cast iron stock manifolds). I cut the tie-bar between the ports, though and I put a thin film of high temp RTV on the surface and give it a chance to set up before starting the engine and blowing the gasket out.

I was in a hurry once a couple of years ago and put the gaskets on dry. Had to replace the right side due to a blow-out when I got back from Lead East (approximately 500 mile round trip at 75+ mph) and that's with stock Magnum exhaust manifolds.

Headers are a lot tougher to get the seal right so Ultra Black, every time. I even use it on copper collector gaskets. My downpipes are cut and have 3" flanges so that I can drop the exhaust enough to get the crossmember out to change the clutch without having to mess with the flange bolts on the manifolds.

Old habits die hard. I used to race the car and changing clutches was routine. When I restored the car, I cut my brand new Accurate Exhaust system and installed 3" collector flanges just in front of the trans crossmember just like in the old days.

 

[Mebsuta]

I liked it when my headers leaked a little bit. The exhaust would grumble and pop on decel. I worked on the leaks and it got all smooth and boring.

I uncorked one side yesterday and fired it up. It sounded like a Harley Davidson.

 

[Frank Mopar]

I liked it when my headers leaked a little bit. The exhaust would grumble and pop on decel. I worked on the leaks and it got all smooth and boring.

I uncorked one side yesterday and fired it up. It sounded like a Harley Davidson.

Back in the day we would put a flat washer between the collector flange and the exhaust flange. Sounded bad ***.

 

[Mebsuta]

Back in the day we would put a flat washer between the collector flange and the exhaust flange. Sounded bad ***.

Thanks. I think I might try that.