Header Install 1969 Rodrunner........fun,fun,fun!

[Propwash]

Question guys. Putting in my engine here shortly (RB Block) and a set of Doug's 2" D-452 headers to boot. Instructions that came with the headers specified to jack the car up, remove the center link and install. The directions are leaning to the idea the motor is already in the car. No other options/directions listed. Like many of you, I have had my fair share of shoehorning in headers in the past, but would like to have a smooth install. I know these headers fit well when installed so the hammer and F-bombs will stay in the tool box.

So what are my options? Dropping the car on the K-Frame is not one of them. I saved an old thread where Cranky recommended wrapping them in garbage bags when setting them in (to keep from scratching everything up), and will be doing that. From what you guys have done in the past, do you think I can set them in with the centerlink installed and drop the engine in? Or should I still follow suite, jack up the car, remove the pitman arm, idler and inner tie rods from the center link and get it out of the way?

Thanks for your time.

 

[Garys1969RR]

I just put Jegs/Patriot headers on my 69 RR. Instructions said to do what you said, plus modify the shifter linkage,(auto trans). All I had to do is jack the engine up 2 " each side. I had the heads off, so had enough room (barely). All linkage fit fine unmodified. That included the kick down linkage. I think alot of those steps are meant to be done to the e body cars. You should have no problem. Just set the headers in place before you drop the engine in.

 

[Propwash]

Appreciate it Gary!

 

[kdtjb]

I'm thinking for the extra 30 minutes you might want to pull your torsion bars back. But I can't remember just how much they are in the way.

 

[Gpuller]

I would think dropping the center link, raising the motor and sliding the headers up from below would be the easiest. Most of the time the motor doesnt just fall into place and you need to jockey it around, with the headers in place I would think that would make it a pain.
Wrap up the headers good, and lay blankets on the inner fenders and start bolting sh#t up.
Note:
Use plenty of Ultra Copper RTV on the header gaskets.

 

[Propwash]

Thanks fella's..........Good stuff!

Wrap up the headers good, and lay blankets on the inner fenders and start bolting sh#t up.

See, now that is the kind of direction that should be in a Chilton's or Factory Service manual....lol Now that I can live with....Not, "Use Chrysler tool (P/N#174645) to install (P/N#24009-01), while applying Chrysler Lubricant (P/N#7856B-BLR), and then torque to original factory specifications."

 

[Meep-Meep]

I have always tossed my headers in the engine bay first then set the engine in making adjustments as I lower it. Having someone on each side helps a lot otherwise you will be running around in circles. I tend to be pretty rough with the installation because headers don't understand any other way. I just don't let those pipes tell me what to do. The best way (as you probably guessed) is to do the K member install from the bottom, and after doing that a couple of times recently, I will never break paint on hood bolts again.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Hey Meep Meep, when doing a k member install from below, do you suspend the engine from above with the headers hooked up, then just raise the k member (with all steering gear, tie rods and spindles attached) up to the frame? And run the 4 large attaching bolts into the frame rails? Is that the procedure? I have never done it that way, so thats why I ask. And is the reason for doing it this way so that you dont scratch up the new paint in the engine bay? May have to do it like that some day. Thanks.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Yeah, pretty much. Here is how I did it. I made a fixture with a hoist ring that picks up the bumper brackets and I use the engine crane to lift the body. But to get the engine ready to install I also made a cart that allows engine crane leg access and won't get in the way of other stuff. I assemble the engine with all the accessories, headers, suspension, etc.. then roll it under the car as it's hanging by the engine crane. The front wheel well area is convenient in allowing the engine to pass through into its home. Once it's lined up in the hole just lower the body around it until it's resting back on the stands. Then disconnect the crane and reposition to lift the engine home. It's so easy you will stand there wondering what went wrong.

 

[Propwash]

Thanks for all the good idea's here guys. Arming myself up quite nicely for the install. Appreciate it.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Oh, so the motor is also bolted to the K Member before you roll everything under there?

 

[Meep-Meep]

Oh, so the motor is also bolted to the K Member before you roll everything under there?

You bet. And I forgot to add the tranny too! Have you ever bolted stuff you your engine from angles you never seen before? Walk right up to those bell housing bolts and tighten them with one hand while eating a sandwich with the other. No fenders to lean over. No rad support in the way. It's the equivalent of resting on a beach with an umbrella drink.

 

[benno440]

i dont know if similiar but how i did it with my TTI's was sat both headers in the car leaning against the inner fenders (wrapped of course) then i lowered the engine in had 2 mates slowly lift them up as the engine was going down, this was the best way i found and i didnt have to dismantle anything

 

[Propwash]

Awesome Benno! Thanks a bunch Man. The TTI's vs. Doug's I have are pretty much identical. Great info!

 

[kdtjb]

One more for sure thing, if you have an extra head you should bolt your headers to it and check to see if you can get a spark plug socket on all plugs. I have had to make a jig to get the clearance on # 5 on 3 sets of TTIs. Both B & RB and both straight and angled plug heads.

 

[Propwash]

One more for sure thing, if you have an extra head you should bolt your headers to it and check to see if you can get a spark plug socket on all plugs. I have had to make a jig to get the clearance on # 5 on 3 sets of TTIs. Both B & RB and both straight and angled plug heads.

Got that covered in the engine dyno amigo. Angled plugs out of the eddy heads fit real well with the headers. Thanks for bringing it up though. Good reference.

 

[hemistix66]

Did my 63 Fury laying wrapped 452's in the bay,dropped 440 in no problem.But had 2 friends along for the ride lol.Had 452 heads so plugs were tight in #5 hole. I been involed in body drop to K frame.WOW!It's the only way to go if you can!

 

[tallhair]

Yeah, pretty much. Here is how I did it. I made a fixture with a hoist ring that picks up the bumper brackets and I use the engine crane to lift the body. But to get the engine ready to install I also made a cart that allows engine crane leg access and won't get in the way of other stuff. I assemble the engine with all the accessories, headers, suspension, etc.. then roll it under the car as it's hanging by the engine crane. The front wheel well area is convenient in allowing the engine to pass through into its home. Once it's lined up in the hole just lower the body around it until it's resting back on the stands. Then disconnect the crane and reposition to lift the engine home. It's so easy you will stand there wondering what went wrong.

I helped a friend pull the engine, trans, K-frame w/suspension etc out of a 67 GTX and what you've described is exactly what we did. Easy peasy. Used engine hoist to lift the car and pulled the whole unit out from under. It was small 1 car garage, with a ceiling and we were still able to do it.

 

[Pistol Pete]

:icon_rr:Bite the bullet Will, pull the K frame.




Okay, okay if that's really not an option I'd cover the inner fenders with craft paper, drop the suspension (and torsion bars if you're really energetic) and leave the studs out of the heads, starter off, yada yada yada.



Oh, and don't forget Chrysler Lubricant (P/N#7856B-BLR)

 

[747mopar]

Mine are hooker super comps and went in without removing anything. I did however have the pitman and idler arm disconnected allowing me to move the steering linkage forward. Torsion bars, starter, power steering and all were in place but I did have to raise the car pretty high to get them in probably 2'. Good luck