OK;one last follow-up,and a few of the lessons learned,so anyone else doing this can learn from my experiences.
First,headers get hot after running the car a bit. Very effin' hot. I've got two nice burns learning this truth. Let these things cool before doing more work,like tightening **** that you thought you had tight. Or;get some MechanixWear gloves,which I plan to do. Ouch.
Two;(this requires pics)you will more than likely require a mini-starter for just about any B/RB header install. On the good advice of member Wannadrag(thanks,bud),I got a unit for a Dodge Dakota with a 360 mill. This has a terminal addition that must be removed,as it will interfere with the block.
ALSO!!!,you will need to cut about 1/8" off the end of the large stud(hiding under the plastic cover) in order to get the cable ends and the nut on. I tried to loosen the starter and couldn't get them on,so I pulled the header off(which allowed me to "adjust" a couple of clearance issues with a hammer),pulled the starter,and made the cut. I could have left a bit more material in;I wasn't able to use a lock washer,so I hope the blue Loctite holds. We'll see...
Third;I don't know of any headers(maybe TTI's;not these) with enough clearance behind tubes # 1 and 2 for a bolt,and barely a nut. Since I kept the original studs,a nut it was. However,I got a hammer(again) and a chisel,and made a strike on each pipe to give me a wee bit more clearance for the nut. When I put the pipes over the studs,I installed that nut(and washer) on first,with the flange just barely over the stud ends. Once I got the nut on,I finger-tightened it as I pushed the flange over the studs more. You need to do this gradually while spinning the nut,or it(the nut) will catch on the pipe and you'll get frustrated and say bad words.
I also got ACCEL asbestos sleeves to go over the plug boots and wires. They don't look cool,but they function(we'll see...);I prefer function. It was easier to route the plugs through(between) the pipes in some places. I also used a similar sleeve over the battery cable,as it also passes between to pipes. 'Twas the only way,for now,to get that on. I see a new cable in the future.
Under the car,I was stuck with using a 2-1/2" adapter because of clearance issues again,and then had to fab an "S" bend right after the header. These pipes may have been meant for a 383;the collector is tight to the floor.
The bends did fit rather neatly in the crossmember indents and then lined up with the old exhaust system. I do plan to weld the pieces together,and be able to unbolt the section at the header and slip it off at the other end if I need to remove it later. This was also quieter than I expected,must have got things sealed up well.
This was meant more for those who may have stumbled across this thread and can benefit from it-I hope. If you're one of those folks,read the advice given to me in this thread;it worked! Thanks again to those who offered help and tips.
