Headlights randomly turn off

[ray230]

I am fighting a nagging problem of the headlights randomly going out and back on. Need a little help finding the issue. I will try to go through what I've done so far.

It started 2 years ago when the ammeter smoked its self. I had a restoration shop install a new dash and engine harness. This included a full restoration of the gauges, dash panel and a new head light switch. We eliminated the ammeter and replaced with a volt meter too. After this everything else is working fine, except this issue with the head lights. They seem to go out more when the high beams are on, but will go out both ways.

I don't drive the car much at night so I have been slow to get this fixed. This winter I have been working on it and replaced the front lighting harness and dimmer switch. I also made a bare metal ground area for the front harness ground wires. I thought that would fix it because I found some corrosion in the old harness. But it is still there. Since it is winter my testing is with the car not running ad just sitting in the garage. No other lights are effected, not dash or rear. Only headlights and high beam light on the dash if on high.

Testing today I was able to determine that when the lights go out, there is no power to the center L2-16LGN to the dimmer switch. That traces back to the top wire connected to the headlamp switch. Could it be a bad switch? All other lights controlled by that switch work fine. Also what would cause it to be random? Moving the wires with the lights on does not cause them to go out so I don't think it is a connection.

I am scratching my head. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[Auggie56]

There is a circuit breaker in the switch, they get weak with age.. Change it out, and your problem is solved.

 

[Dennis H]

Still have the bulkhead connector? Anything else quit when losing the lights? Try cycling the high beam low beam switch at time of failure?

 

[ray230]

Auggie56
It is a new switch, but I guess it could still be the problem. I will look into it.

Dennis H
Yes, I still have the bulkhead. New though. I thought that might be it until I found the power from the switch to the dimmer was going out, before the X and Y wires go through the bulkhead. No other lights affected. Even front parking lights stay on.

thanks for the replies.

- - - Updated - - -

Auggie56
Where can you buy just the circuit breaker?

Thanks

 

[A383Wing]

if lights are going out and then back on...sounds like the circuit breaker inside the switch is tripping the power...bad switch is my guess....you cannot just buy the circuit breaker, must buy entire new switch

I would also consider installing the headlight relay upgrade also

someone here will post the picture or link of relay diagram

 

[65RoadRacer]

I had a 1970 coronet... since the switch is the "relay" it pulls the entire circuit load through the switch. Mine would randomly flash on and off... I couldn't figure out why people kept flashing their lights at me until I had the car parked, running, and my lights were flashing on and off. The switch gets hot... that could be the culprit. I replaced mine, never happened again (well, as long as I owned the car, that is)

 

[ray230]

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like another new switch is in order.

 

[Cranky]

Where was your present switch made?

 

[ray230]

I don't know where the shop ordered it from. I am thinking about ordering a new one from Classic. Not sure where theirs are made either.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Upgraded headlights by chance? Higher wattage headlamps on factory wiring can cause the breaker to trip. Install relays on the headlamps, leave the switch alone.

 

[ray230]

Nope. All stock headlights.

 

[Mogre]

Google " octane lighting ". I purchased their H4 bulb relay wiring kit for $39.95. Good upgrade to take a load off the switch and wiring.

 

[Crackedback]

A relay kit, like I build, will solve the heat problem in your system. The OEM system only triggers relays and carries very little load, less than .25 amps vs 15+ with the stock set up.

The breaker in the switch is tripping because the system has resistance somewhere that is building heat. The stock system is barely adequate to fire a set of lights, bean counters at their best!

There are plenty of solutions out there, some are much better design, materials and construction than others. Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[ray230]

Crackedback can you PM me information about your kit?
Thanks

Mogre, thanks I'll look into it

 

[1967coronet]

I had a old floor dimmer switch that acted the same way{ Lights would cut off on High beam once warmed up}, stuck in a new napa dimmer, problem solved.
Not saying that yours is bad but you may want to ck it.

 

[ray230]

Ordered a kit today from Crackedback. Thanks!

 

[Lngbrdz]

crackedback can you send me the info as well?

 

[ray230]

The harness arrived yesterday. Hopefully I'll install this weekend.

 

[plymouth67]

It is definitely the dimmer switch!!!! 100% take it to the bank!!!

 

[ray230]

i had already replaced the dimmer switch. Also in my testing I was losing power to the center wire coming into the dimmer.