• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Help needed 383 with 750 vac backfiring!

powermyster

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:40 PM
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
200
Reaction score
62
Location
Dublin, Ireland
Hi All,

I have been trying to solve an issue I've been having with no avail. I thought that I'd swallow my pride and ask for help! I haven't done anything with the car in months as I went back to college. I've been back at it and I'll try run down through everything I done, though some of it might be a little fuzzy as it was done last year.

The car was pinking and backfiring through the exhaust and running a little poorly when I got her, when i checked the timing it was i think about 18* but was pulling in a massive amount of mechanical advance up over 50* IIRC.

I got the FBO limiter plate, set it up to come all in at 34/35* with an initial of 18. Put new rotor, cap, plugs, leads etc. then car ran ok and revs up slowly ok, but if you snap the throttle open she will backfire through the carb every time.

I stripped and cleaned the carb, replaced gaskets and PV. still doing the same. I replaced the accelerator pump squirter with a .035 and have tried all the cams, some seem a little better but she still backfires if I snap the throttle open. I put and AEM UEGO gauge in and have the idle set at about 12.5/1. she leans out and pops every time.

I've the checked the compression, cold (hadn't ran in several days) and dry. getting around 120 psi on most cylinders with a small amount variance, the biggest variance was cylinder 2 about 128 psi and and cylinder 5 which was 113psi. the plugs to the rear of the engine appeared wet when we pulled them, like fuel on them, plus 6 seems to have a little oil on the threads. I havent pulled the rockers covers yet, as she pulls steady vacuum, last reading was a steady 21 inches when I was playing with the timing. I thought that seemed a little high, she seems to like about 30* initial when setting it via rpm, but that initial is too much under load.

I think that I have covered off most of what I have done, carbs are hard to come by in Ireland, there is a guy selling a Holley 650 2BBL about an hour away, which I was thinking of buying to rule out the carb.

Any advise, someone suggested my dissy could be at fault, i did note she seems to retard a little before advancing when I had the light on it. By the way its a standard mopar HEI ignition, checked the connections and earths too.
 
I Always ask the stupid question, are the plug wires on correctly? It can happen! Been there..
 
Yup, checked the TDC again the other night, to make sure that 30* initial was an accurate reading. rotor lined up with no 1 and rechecked the firing order.

I'm thinking it might be in the carb, could the timing curve cause this. I seems ok, I'm all in by about 2700 rpm.

By the way I disconnected the vacuum advance, haven't tried to reconnect it, but it should have an effect on the backfire right??
 
Did you follow the plug wires from the dizzy to the actual plugs for correctness?
 
Last edited:
Yeah, actually disconnected them all and reconnected to make sure they where clipped on right
 
Backfiring through the carb should be a lean misfire. Maybe not enough initial pump shot? Larger accelerator pump squirter or different cam.

When you disconnected the vacuum advance, did you plug both the dizzy and vacuum hose?
 
I've always done both out of habit. But since no vacuum source, not sure if it matters for dizzy.
 
Electronic dist.? Is your reluctor properly phased?
 
Yeah, electronic dizzy. Standard black box.

could be onto something with the phasing. I had the reluctor off a couple times to change the fbo plate. I marked everything up when taking off on off, I'll check it tomorrow. Think I still have the old cap there someplace
 
I've literally tried them all and went from a #31 IIRC to #35 on the squirter nozzle. The only thing I haven't done on accelerator pump end is get a. 50cc pump for it, I think it's still running the 30cc
 
Hi Mate

So 750 vac = Holley 3310, yeah?! Have you had it apart to check the jetting installed and castings for corrosion/blockages/restrictions?
 
Yup it's a 3310, had it apard a checked everything over seems to be in good nick. Jetting was 70 IIRC, which seems OK as she doesn't run lean as I Rev her slowly. I think it was reading about 13/1 on the AFR when revs where is to about 3000-3500. Which is a little on the rich side but should be ok.

I didn't mess with the back too much because I'm not familiar with the entering block on the secondaries, again it all looked to be very clean.
 
Ok so I got a few minutes to get out to the garage, didn't have time to pull her out so couldn't run it for too long.

Drilled a hole in an old cap and marked the cap and rotor, banged the timing light on and the rotor lines up perfect with the plug wire point. she was missing a little bit with the old cap. revved her up and little and no movement or phasing of the rotor.

Decided to plug the vacuum advance back on and there is some slight advancement of the rotor as soon as you open the throttle. haven't connected the vacuum advance in a while, she brings in a fair bit of vacuum as soon as i hit the throttle. snapped throttle open and heard a couple pops from the exhaust which I'm putting down to the old cap and rotor misfiring.

I'll take a proper look at her tomorrow, could the phasing on the vacuum advance be all she needed???
 
img_4568-1.jpg

Here is the shot without vacuum adv.


img_4569-3.jpg

Here you can see its advanced a small but with vacuum.

Sorry about the images. Hard to hold the timing light and try get an good
Image
 
So where is your initial timing and total timing (mech adv only) at now? (Initial of 18 and mech adv of another 18 for a total of 36, like mentioned in your OP, is pretty right.)

Does the pump shot look healthy? (possibly a leaky non-return valve in pump circuit?)

Crossfire perhaps? Your pics show 2 spark leads to odd bank are a bit twisted together - all leads should be separated to prevent crossfire.

Try holding the secondaries shut when you crack the throttle in case they are opening slightly and causing lean out.

Does drivability concur with your OK AFR readings? (As in, does it cruise and accelerate well as long as you don't open the throttle too quickly, and even if it does pop, does it recover then make power smoothly?) If yes, then it points back to acc pump shot....
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top