Help needed reviving my Plymouth Satellite

[S@t3ll1t3]

Hi fellas,

Let me start by saying that I haven't got much experience working on cars and that I'm learning as I go :walk: I recently found out the hard way that misconnecting your battery can do a lot of damage. Smoke started coming out of my ignition box (MSD 6A 6200) and the car went "dead".

I replaced the ignition box with a newer model (MSD 6A 6201) and tested the battery. But when I got everything connected again, the car still didn't make a move nor sound. The led on the ignition box didn't light up when I turned the key, the interior lights didn't pop on when I opened the door, the starter didn't make a sound, nothing.

I just tested the battery with a multimeter and it showed 12,54 volts on the + side and 0,3 ohm on the - side. This remains the same when I turn the key. I also tested the 6 fuses and they all react to the beeper test. I'm kinda stuck now. Which tests should I perform next to determine the cause of the problem?

One other question : the thin red wire coming from the ignition box, which connects to the ignition key or switch according to the manual, is splitted up in 2 wires. One goes to the left part of the carburetor and the other one disappears in the firewall. Is it normal that it splits up? And why to the carburetor?

Jurgen from Belgium

 

[Bb70charger500]

You probably fried a few wires witch is no fun repair ,my best advice would be to trace the power to find out where you loose it at , is there any burnt wireing anywhere also since you said you had power at the fuese next see if you have power at your ign harness and starter relay like I said just trace the power till you loose it then look for damage or a bad part good luck and post some pics of your wireing to the carb , and we will try and help once we see what your talking about

 

[badlite]

You probly fried the fuse link, it is connected to starter solinoid, and furnishes power to every thing.

 

[terzmo]

Hi fellas,

Let me start by saying that I haven't got much experience working on cars and that I'm learning as I go :walk: I recently found out the hard way that misconnecting your battery can do a lot of damage. Smoke started coming out of my ignition box (MSD 6A 6200) and the car went "dead".

I replaced the ignition box with a newer model (MSD 6A 6201) and tested the battery. But when I got everything connected again, the car still didn't make a move nor sound. The led on the ignition box didn't light up when I turned the key, the interior lights didn't pop on when I opened the door, the starter didn't make a sound, nothing.

I just tested the battery with a multimeter and it showed 12,54 volts on the + side and 0,3 ohm on the - side. This remains the same when I turn the key. I also tested the 6 fuses and they all react to the beeper test. I'm kinda stuck now. Which tests should I perform next to determine the cause of the problem?

One other question : the thin red wire coming from the ignition box, which connects to the ignition key or switch according to the manual, is splitted up in 2 wires. One goes to the left part of the carburetor and the other one disappears in the firewall. Is it normal that it splits up? And why to the carburetor?

Jurgen from Belgium

the one to the carb could be a tap for power to an electric choke

 

[S@t3ll1t3]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies. I quickly checked the fuses with the battery connected and I get 0 volts at every one of them.

@badlite : is the orange cable the fuse link? Is there a way I can test with a multimeter if it is fried?



Anyone knows what the brown cable is for? It is not connected and has never been as long as I can remember.

This is a picture of the wire to the carb.

 

[GearAddict]

Yes, that's the fusible link. Check with your tester that you have power at the lower connection of that wire and then again by jamming your test probe into where the wire goes into the black bulkhead connector... You should have 12 volts in both places...if it's fried you will only see 12 volts at one end of that wire.

Also it looks like it has a replaceable fuse in the center of it (that little black box attached to the center of the wire) try to open it and check the fuse.

 

[WileERobby]

Without getting into your specific situation, I'll just offer a little friendly advice, having encountered a few electrical monstrosities over the past 40 plus years. First, don't do anything without the specific wire schematic for your car, including the add-on... all your answers are there. Secondly, don't power up anything you don't want to fry again without correcting the cause, unless you're ok buying the same part again. Thirdly, don't pull your hair out, you'll need all you have as you get older !!

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

What year car? Get yourself a wiring diagram. here is an example

http://mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerA.JPG

 

[GearAddict]

Without getting into your specific situation, I'll just offer a little friendly advice, having encountered a few electrical monstrosities over the past 40 plus years. First, don't do anything without the specific wire schematic for your car, including the add-on... all your answers are there. Secondly, don't power up anything you don't want to fry again without correcting the cause, unless you're ok buying the same part again. Thirdly, don't pull your hair out, you'll need all you have as you get older !!

Sage advice

 

[S@t3ll1t3]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the tips and the good advice. From now on, I'll keep the wiring diagram close. The fuse link turned out to be the main culprit. I replaced it and now the satellite is purring like a happy kitten again.

 

[Coyoteduster]

Nice looking Satellite, welcome to the site!