Help - What did I damage? - I reversed the jumper cables on battery charger

[69RRBeepBeep]

Not likely as the alternator diodes are forward biased; if the reverse polarity were applied, the PIV or
Peak Inverse Voltage rating of the individual diodes would prevent any current flow including the resistance of the stator windings will also limit current flow. The fusable link did it's job.....
BOB RENTON

I found a 14 fa fusible link of 9” length correct diameter ring connector at NAPA BUT no Barb for bulkhead box

I am afraid of busting the bulkhead box trying to remove the burnt link

What tool is best for pinching and pulling that barbed end?

Any suggestions / tricks?

Everyone’s help and patience is appreciated— especially by my wife!

 

[tubalcain]

I found a 14 fa fusible link of 9” length correct diameter ring connector at NAPA BUT no Barb for bulkhead box

I am afraid of busting the bulkhead box trying to remove the burnt link

What tool is best for pinching and pulling that barbed end?

Any suggestions / tricks?

Everyone’s help and patience is appreciated— especially by my wife!

I'm new here, first post, not so new to Mopar's. Way back in the day, I was taught to disconnect the field wire from the voltage regulator when messing with battery cables, jump starting and such. That protects the alternator. I used that when drag racing to disable to alternator via a dash mounted switch. I picked up, maybe a HP, needed sometimes to win!

 

[padam]

Don’t feel bad I did the same thing last year and ruined a $350 reproduction battery. Some time after replacing the battery I found my mechanical regulator had burnt a wire too. I assume it was related..

We are getting to old! I did this a couple of years jump starting my kids Totoya. Also fried the fusable link or whatever it had in it.

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm new here, first post, not so new to Mopar's. Way back in the day, I was taught to disconnect the field wire from the voltage regulator when messing with battery cables, jump starting and such. That protects the alternator. I used that when drag racing to disable to alternator via a dash mounted switch. I picked up, maybe a HP, needed sometimes to win!

STEP 1....DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE.
Consider splicing your new fuse link onto the end of the existing link AFTER inspecting it. You may need to strip back some of the old fuse link wire to expose a good section. Allow as much as possible the wire without pulling it out of the bulk head. Crimp and solder your end of the new link wire onto the end of the old link wire, still attached to the bulk head. Tape or using heat shrink tubing to insulate the splice joint.
Re connect the battery NEGATIVE cable.....just my thoughts.....others may have their own opinions....
BOB RENTON

 

[tonysrt]

I'm going way back, mid 60's, I had a 58 Fury with the 350 Golden Commando motor. I burnt up a few regulators and generators and had no idea why. I got disgusted and went to an electric service guy and he found the problem. The generator wires ran from the passenger side off the generator to the drivers side in front of the engine and had developed a bare wire in the bundle shorting everything out. So I was stupid just replacing parts when there was a problem I couldn't detect. I just remember when he was fiddling around there was a spark from the wires at the bare part, he replaced that wire and no more generator problems.

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm going way back, mid 60's, I had a 58 Fury with the 350 Golden Commando motor. I burnt up a few regulators and generators and had no idea why. I got disgusted and went to an electric service guy and he found the problem. The generator wires ran from the passenger side off the generator to the drivers side in front of the engine and had developed a bare wire in the bundle shorting everything out. So I was stupid just replacing parts when there was a problem I couldn't detect. I just remember when he was fiddling around there was a spark from the wires at the bare part, he replaced that wire and no more generator problems.

B4 the days of alternators, the generator required a three relay voltage regulator., comprised of: voltage regulator relay, which monitored the voltage produced by the generator by adjusting the field voltage profuced. There was an over-current relay that limited the maximum value of amps produced. Excessive current tended to over heat the generator's armature which would melt the solder of the armature to commutator connections and finally a cut-out relay to disconnect the generator when the engine wad shut down. Failure to disconnect the generator when shutting down would drain or discharge the battery back thru the generator armature windings. Chrysler developed the alternator with the 1960 vehicles as a solution and to give more output with less parts. GM was next in 1963 and FOMOCO in 1964 with Mercury and 1965 with Ford.......FYI.....for what it's worth.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Geoff 2]

I have thought more about this. I suspect that the alt diodes are shot, which may have taken out the FL & the volt reg [ f'wall smoke ].

Here is my reasoning:
- FL failing electrically requires a large current burst through it that is larger than it's rating.
- I do not see anything in the electrics that would get a surge [ other than the alt ] from reversed batt polarity.
- Alt has diodes, number depends on design.
- Two important parameters of a diode is the PIV [ peak inverse voltage ] & max forward current rating. Buy a diode from the electronics store, & it may have a 100v PIV, 4 amp rating.
- diode passes current in one direction & when polarity is reversed, it blocks current flow. In the blocking direction, [ above example ], if more than 100v peak is applied to the diode it will burn out. In the forward, or current passing direction, current must be 4 amps or less, to not blow the diode.
- with the alt diodes, with battery polarity reversed, I believe the diodes would have got a large, excess current through them. I don't see enough resistance in the diode cct to limit current through the diodes to a safe level.
- This surge probably took out the volt reg, which in turn took out the FL.

 

[RJRENTON]

I have thought more about this. I suspect that the alt diodes are shot, which may have taken out the FL & the volt reg [ f'wall smoke ].

Here is my reasoning:
- FL failing electrically requires a large current burst through it that is larger than it's rating.
- I do not see anything in the electrics that would get a surge [ other than the alt ] from reversed batt polarity.
- Alt has diodes, number depends on design.
- Two important parameters of a diode is the PIV [ peak inverse voltage ] & max forward current rating. Buy a diode from the electronics store, & it may have a 100v PIV, 4 amp rating.
- diode passes current in one direction & when polarity is reversed, it blocks current flow. In the blocking direction, [ above example ], if more than 100v peak is applied to the diode it will burn out. In the forward, or current passing direction, current must be 4 amps or less, to not blow the diode.
- with the alt diodes, with battery polarity reversed, I believe the diodes would have got a large, excess current through them. I don't see enough resistance in the diode cct to limit current through the diodes to a safe level.
- This surge probably took out the volt reg, which in turn took out the FL.

Incorrect reasoning.....a faulty assumption re the diodes capacity and capacity......the voltage regulator may have been damaged. Why would you "buy a diode from the electronics store" not knowing what it's ratings are and then apply it incorrectly......??. If the diode fails, it's not the diodes fault but the person who applied it incorrectly fault. Alternator diodes are selected and applied based on contingencies as the one illustrated by the OP.....without any effect. There is zero reverse current flow thru the junction if the polarity is reversed. Appling 12 volts reversed polarity will have no effect.
BOB RENTON

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

I disconnected negative batterr terminal. Pulled out male connector from bulkhead mounting.

The fusible link burned all the way to the barbed connector terminal: I can’t splice to it.

I need to remove connector and burnt wire..

Part 1 of 2

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

What’s the tool and technique to pinch the Barb closed and push it and burnt link out of the male connector so I can replace?

Is the distorted plastic hindering this?

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

Here’s a closeup if the replacement link connector to go in male bulkhead connection

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

Do I just break off the barbed terminal? Try to clean out the remnants of it and link?

I guess I could use the Dremel to grind away the distorted damaged area and plug fusible link directly into the femal bulkhead connection independent of snap-in connector.

Somehow I have to master the technique of the pinch and push of these connectors !

 

[dadsbee]

Just slide a jewelers flat screw driver in and push the tab back while pulling it out the wire side.

You can also use small needle nose to squeeze the end and push it out.

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

Just slide a jewelers flat screw driver in and push the tab back while pulling it out the wire side.

You can also use small needle nose to squeeze the end and push it out.

Makes sense. I’ll see if a tiny flat screwdriver will compress the barn, might need a helper to pull it out.

 

[Geoff 2]

R. Renton,
Read my last post again.....& make sure you have you're glasses on. IN YOUR HASTE TO FIND FAULT WITH EVERTYTHIONG I WRITE, YOU INVENT THINGS.
A lot of people are not electrically savvy. Hence my simple example of diode bought from an electronics store, how it works & how it is rated.
I DID NOT SUGGEST OR RECOMMEND USING THIS DIODE IN THE ALT.

"There is zero reverse current flow through the junction if the polarity is reversed".
Did you miss this: when the polarity is reversed, it blocks current flow.
You apparently know very little about alts.

There is no faulty assumption about diodes on my part, nor incorrect reasoning. The only incorrect reasoning has come from YOU......
In the diagram of an alt below, the diodes are reverse biased with the bat polarity correct. With bat polarity reversed, the power diodes are forward biased; with no limiting resistance in the cct, the diodes will blow from the huge current surge.

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

Guys, back to context of my car’s issue.

Once I conquer getting the burnt fusible link out of the connector and restore 12v power to electrical system,

You are discussing whether my alternator diodes are fried?

How do I test for this possibility , where do I hook up the multimeter?

 

[moparmarks]

As stated squeeze the blade and pull in out the back of the connecter body which may be hard to do with how it is melted.
I'd check the other side of the bulk head and also the dash harness.
I'd test the battery, alternator and VR.

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

I’m hopeful, of course, that the fusible link did its job.

Will post when my farm helper returns tomorrow to lend a
Hand pushing and pulling… also 20 yo set of eyes !

 

[69RRBeepBeep]

WHERE CAN I BUY a replacement male firewall connector?


OK. The plastic of the male 8 pin firewall connector is to heat-distorted to remove the old fusible link barbed terminal.

I’m proceeding to label the other 7 wires and attempt to remove them from distorted plastic male connector.

Order a new terminal, reinstall 7 other wires + new fusible link.

Proceed from there.

 

[dadsbee]

WTBuy section. Someone probably has an old one that the removed to install a new harness. I know that I do but not home for a month yet. Also available new... possibly Megaparts or Van's.