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Help with 2 BBL Carb !

Plymouth71

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Ok, I had a mechanic friend come over because I'm having trouble with my 318 satellite running like a bag of hammers. We did some checks and repaired the vacuum leaks and then set our sights on the carb. We removed the top of the 2bbl Carter BBD and checked the floats.

IMGP3465.jpg


Everything appeared ok. We did notice an abundance of fuel and my friend felt maybe the needle valve was blocked by debris. He removed it and inspected it, it looked ok, so we cleaned it and re-installed it. After putting the top of the carb back on, it ran great and he set the idle. We took it for a quick ride to the parts store to enquire about a choke thermostat because it was not functioning properly. When we returned home, it stalled as we pulled into the driveway. After removing the aircleaner we saw fuel dripping from the carb. After re-starting it again, it ran poorly again and stalled. He advised me the accelerator pump was pumping fuel into the carb as soon as I pressed the accelerator and did seem to want to stop. So we decided the problem wasn't with the needle valve, but something with the accelerator pump.

BadCarb.jpg


My question is, does anybody know why it would be intermittent? When I initially saw the vehicle, I was unable to take it for a roadtest, but I started it and it ran fine. When the seller pulled it out of the warehouse and I started the roadtest, it was fine. However before we returned the mixture got rich, the exhaust was belching black smoke and the smell of unburnt fuel was overpowering. We looked under the hood at that time and saw a bunch of fuel coming from the carb. We noticed a couple of the Carb screws were loose and tightened them but it still ran poorly. I figured it would be an easy fix, and that the loose screws proved he had the problem previously. I'm just wondering if there is an easy fix or should I just rebuild it? We are also pretty sure this is not the factory supplied carb and it was added at some point although it might have been a straight replacement.
 
If you have fuel pouring in from the bowl vent (brass tube called out in your picture) then you have either a sunk float or needle valve not seating. Take the float out and shake it to see if it's full of gas - assuming its brass. Nitrophyl will have to be weighed. Also check fuel pressure just to say you did. Not likely you will have anything extreme with a stock pump but it's a data point. Changing the fuel filter won't hurt.
 
The brass floats are fine. The needle valve has been removed and inspected 3 times. Don't have any way to check the fuel pressure yet.
 
i would rebuild the carb just to be sure.those little air bleed holes can get plugged and cause very strange problems in two barrel carbs.one other thing is you should have one of those return springs hooked to the end of your trans kick down rod.otherwise it just flops around and causes random shift points.make sure to check that bowl vent(plastic peice on top of bowl)to make sure it opens and closes with the throttle.it should hook to a hose that i hope can off with the air cleaner,if left open can suck junk strait into the bowl.
 
Also make sure the float isn't hanging up on something as it moves through the range. I think those are two floats held together with a brass strap and these can bend. Is it possible on this 2 BBL that the float can hit the lid or deformed lid gasket before seating the needle? Not likely but just a thought. There might be an ideal position for that tang that contacts the needle relative to the floats. I had a similar thing happen on a Holley. Put the bowl on and a geyser of gas out of the vent tube. Pull the bowl and everything tested perfectly. The float was bent just enough that it was hanging up on the metering plate. The devil is in the details.
 
one other thing is you should have one of those return springs hooked to the end of your trans kick down rod.otherwise it just flops around and causes random shift points.


Where is this I'm not familiar with the kick down rod.
 
Ok. Vehicle is now idling nicely. I think I still need to adjust it, but it idles!

Next problem. When I'm leaving a stop unless i really feather the gas pedal, the car hiccups (not quite a backfire) but the engine dies like it wants to stall and then lurches forward chirping the tires. I'm wondering if it's getting too much fuel? Do I need to adjust the idle air mixture screw? I've also noticed sometimes turning a corner at low speed it will stall.

And last but not least I still need to know where those springs connect because it shifts erratically, ie. I sometimes get a delayed shift. Thank you again for your assistance !
 
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if it stalls in corners your float level is off and you are probly running out of fuel.the kickdown linkage is the flat silver rod on the carb with the long groove in it.there should be a spring hooked to it seperate from the return spring.keeps it pulled forward.
 
Back when, those BBD's were a real PITA... I'd get rid of it.........
 
A stumble might be an accelerator pump issue. You should have a nice shot of fuel as you move the throttle. And don't be lookin' down the carb to check this while the engine is running!
 
Well it seems the least of my problems is the carb. My mechanic took a look at it and tells me the automatic choke isn't working and it appears to him it's probably the intake plugged. He figures sludge as it doesn't appear to him the vehicle was looked after mechanically and the motor doesn't ever appear to have been opened up. Add to that the Transmission is slipping. He hasn't even got the car on the hoist to look underneath it yet. This is a big blow to me. I knew I should have waited for him to check it first, but he was busy combining (harvest time here). Dang I could kick myself. Not sure what I'm going to do. He suggested installing a manual choke for now because he's seen the bottom ends go after re-doing the intakes. Not sure what to do about the Transmission either. I'm seriously depressed at the moment because I didn't see it coming.
 
wire the choke open with bailing wire.should be easy to do.it should still start just fine with that two barrel carb.pull the trans dipstick and smell the fluid.see if it looks dark or smells burnt.i would change the filter and fluid in the trans and see how it does.sure cant hurt at this point.
 
the previous owner replaced the fluid and filter before I got it. it looks perfect and smells fine. it was low though. no change, it still slips
 
transmission

If your transmission fluid does not smell burnt and the color is correct, you should be able to get things working again.

Let the car idle in Neutral until it warms up. Or drive it around some and then stop and let it idle in Neutral for a minute or two.
Then check your trans. fluid level. Then service the transmission with the correct fluid until the level is correct. Then go drive it around and see how it does.

If you do not have the "kickdown" linkage, Chrysler calls it the "Throttle Pressure" linkage, adjusted correctly you will have problems, such as slipping. A search on this forum in the Trans/drivetrain section should find you the answer how to adjust this linkage. There are diagrams on the internet, I think the "forabodiesonly" forum someone posted pictures of the linkage from a Chrysler service manual.
 
Rebuilding the Carb tonight. The New needle valve for the fuel inlet looks smaller and is missing a tab at the end. Do I replace it anyhow or do I continue with the original?


bb5df03b-4064-407c-9a53-4f8e5b551a6a.jpg




Also, I wonder if the accelerator pump was the main problem. It looks like the seal was badly worn. Maybe it was "sticking".


AccelPump002.jpg



One other thing, Looking at the pumps shaft, there are multiple grooves. Is there supposed to be other clips? There were no clips on the original although there are grooves on both plungers.

AccelPump001.jpg
 
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