help with tranny lines and tti headers

[mferraro76]

68 satellite, SB with 727, i cant get the lines to fit. i used a starter out of a dakota, i just don't see any way they will work around the headers and starter on the driver's side. any ideas? should i ditch these lines and do something else?

the lines are from the right stuff.

thanks

 

[747mopar]

Pics would be great so we could see the problem. I always bend my own lines, I'm picky about fitment and you can work around any obstructions. A tubing bender, flare tool and some tubing is all that is needed and they are pretty cheap. I wouldn't hesitate to try and bend the ones you have after all "if they won't work" your not out anything.

 

[Dako]

If not already done, Disconnect the trans line(s) bracket from the starter mount. Remove the bracket from the lines themselves. This allows you to move them independently. With the lines free at this mid-way point, you can push/ pull as needed to clearance the header & starter. You will need to reduce an existing bend or two, as well as add more to other bends. Oncce you have clearance where needed, you can go back and tweek them to once again accomodate the bracket. It may hang down further than it originall did, but it can be done, :icon_rambo: it just takes some time...and like starting an old chainsaw, you gotta use the proper words. :rant: Good luck!

 

[mferraro76]

here is the best pic i could get. the car is up on jack stands. there is no "bracket," probably in a bucket somewhere. i'm trying not to scratch headers, paint, etc. flossing the lines back and forth is a little tough, it looks like i have to fish it above the one primary but then it will almost touch the header.

any one have a pic i can see for reference?

 

[RustyRatRod]

You're gonna need to bend your own, I believe. That header tube is like right in the way of the factory lines. Course, like that's something you don't already know. Bending your own lines is real simple. You might have enough with the lines you have to maybe reroute them. If you're not sure, you might want to hold off on that as you may can still return them.

 

[Dako]

If I remember correctly, I was able to get my original lines to run along the oil pan, just below the header tube in your photo. I would get you a photo, but unfortunately (yesterday!) I dropped 'The Kansas Belle' off at the body man for the final cut-n-buff on my paint. I don't expect to have it back for 3 weeks, as he does this in his spare time. Don't expect you want to wait that long.

 

[super-bee_ski]

YUP,
I am going thru this now with my 70 Hemi Bee.
Those lines are a bitch!
All I can say is: "keep fighting it"

 

[mferraro76]

anyone got some pictures of the stock lines? i am fighting these things but i still don't see how i'm gonna get the starter back in. Also, seems close to the exhaust at several points. maybe i'm doing it wrong?

 

[mferraro76]

OK - i'm about done. probably have to do my own. need some suggestions, though. i'm thinking i'll run them out to the frame and up behind steering box, then out to radiator.

can I use aluminum? what is the smallest size line I should run? if I do hose, does it have to be lined?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would not use aluminum or hose. Just standard 5/16 steel line is all you need. You need to come out of the transmission, take a 90 straight up in front of the bellhousing, run them together between the starter and oil pan right up to the oil pan rail, then another 90 and run them parallel to the oil pan rail and over the top of that header tube. Essentially, it would have been MUCH easier to do out of the car. This right here is another glaring example of why I always recommend removing and installing the engine and transmission the same way the factory did. With K frame and all through the bottom. Good luck.

 

[mferraro76]

You need to come out of the transmission, take a 90 straight up in front of the bellhousing, run them together between the starter and oil pan right up to the oil pan rail, then another 90 and run them parallel to the oil pan rail and over the top of that header tube. Essentially, it would have been MUCH easier to do out of the car. This right here is another glaring example of why I always recommend removing and installing the engine and transmission the same way the factory did. With K frame and all through the bottom. Good luck.

yea, i wish i could do this, but there is no room for the lines between the starter and the oil pan- i am not using the original starter, due to the headers, the posts for the cables are on top and there is literally 1/2 inch between the terminal and the oil pan. The lines i have now take that route and i'm worried if i bend them any more they will crease.

i'd love to have the facility to drop the k-frame, and do it like the factory did. but i am working in my garage with a couple jack stands and a floor jack.

why not use aluminum or hose?

 

[RustyRatRod]

There's tons of room. You can get both lines in a 1" space.

 

[Dako]

Okay, finally took some time this afternoon to get some photos. These are from my `66 Belvedere II. It cannot be much different than your application. If I remember correctly I had to remove the transmission line(s) stand-off bracket, and the line(s) clip beside the oil pan to be able to bend the lines for clearance. Once everything had clearance, I had to tweek them some more to get the bracket and clamp to work. Hope these help.

 

[Jasoncoronet]

I just finished this also on a 68 coronet. I used braided and An fittings and ran them straight across out of the tranny to the frame rail and took it straight to the radiator. In the end much cleaner and the lines are no where near the headers. It is hard to bend hard line if you want to run the frame rail by the steering there is not much room to get the in and out with all the bends in the line.