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Hemi Cranks

68chargin

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i have 2 4.500" hemi cranks. 1 is made by Keith Black the other by Sonny Bryant...I had both magnafluxed and they came back good. What would they be worth, can anyone tell me or just give me some insight on them? Thanks

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Judging by the keyway, it's a fuel crank. The four slugs of Mallory metal are worth more than the crank.
 
But it would work in an after market block, like a world block?
No. Look at the back flange and see if it has a flywheel/converter locating hub in the center. Most do not. The cost for all that work exceeds the cost of a new ready to run crank. Besides, they're usually so full of cracks it's not worth jepordizing the rest of the build to run it.
 
He said he had them both magnafluxed and they came out good.....

Take a pic of the flange and post it or you can tell us if it has the FW or converter locating hub.
 
We used these for big strokers back in the day. We turned up inserts for converter register out of oil hardening steel and made them a press fit. Milled T shaped keys to fit the mopar damper over the big wide keyway. It was a bunch of work. Now you can buy a new 4.500 stroke Molnar crank for $850.
 
We used these for big strokers back in the day. We turned up inserts for converter register out of oil hardening steel and made them a press fit. Milled T shaped keys to fit the mopar damper over the big wide keyway. It was a bunch of work. Now you can buy a new 4.500 stroke Molnar crank for $850.
Your comparing a Molnar to a billet Bryant??
 
Your comparing a Molnar to a billet Bryant??
For the intended purpose of putting them into a 700hp stroker for the street, yes. You're better off with the molnar vs fighting to make a fuel/alcohol crank work in a street engine. If a guy wants a Bryant crank in his street engine, order one new, but that's like buying a backhoe to install fenceposts. It just doesn't make sense.
This crank can be ran, but by the time he gets it in his block, he's gonna have a ton of time and money in it to do it. Maybe it's worth it to him to tell people he has a Bryant crank but in the end, it's much easier to just buy one off the shelf that drops in. You have to pick your battles.
 
I ran one of those fuel cranks WITH the radial cracks.Installed a converter ring and cut it 10/10.Gave me many years of good service.I used one in the 750 to 800 HP range.So if one has the chance to pick one up it can be a less expensive alternate.
Where is the Molnar actually produced? They were not around when I built my hemi.It is a good alternative for $800,really depends on the HP level you will be producing.
When I replaced the old Bryant I went to a Callies.The crank is the backbone of your build,don't cheap out unless your not making more than 5or 600 hp. JMOP:usflag:
 
The Molnar cranks are offshore 4340 forgings made to Tom's design and finished to his specs. The last one I used was as good as any callies I've ever measured. They balance up nice as well. Great product at an affordable price.
 
It all comes down to the intended use and the budget for parts selection. Sometimes guys don't realisticly align the two.
Using a cracked fuel crank in anything puts everything at risk.
I'm Going to be using a fully counterweighted Crower in the turbo hemi. It's the right crank for that job even though I don't like the price.
 
Why for heavens sake mess around with any fuel crank is beyond me. Sure you get a topical good magnflux for a short period. But I am sure it still has cracks..
 
Absolutley has cracks, I've been told if your under 1500 HP it's not an issue.It's the rod & oil pressure that will bite you:rolleyes:
I have seen used fuel cranks sell for $300,dependson ones budget at the time of need.:realcrazy:
 
We used to complain in the 70's about the price of Kellogg cranks which where 2K then now guys want to use a fuel junk crank in 3000.00 blocks.Sorry doesn't make any sense at all.
 
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