Hemi Orange 72 Rallye Charger
- Thread starter fatecaptured
- Start date
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
I finished up running wiring to the trunk and installed the back seat.
The car came with rear defogger, so I decided to get it working.
The car came with rear defogger, so I decided to get it working.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Had to replace a taillight socket. Decided to blast the tail light housing's. They had corrosion on them and couldn't live with how they looked. Also got the front upper door panels tore apart and blasted. Then 2k epoxy primer over all of it.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Put the headlight motor back in and tested it out. I have a Bosch relay instead of the ever elusive stock relay. Here's a bad video of it working.
fatecaptured
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So I made a video summary of the progress so far.
Gary P
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This is amazing! Fantastic work! That car is going to look soooo good!!
fatecaptured
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I finished up the tail light housing, passenger side door panel and window seals.
Thank's.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
I finished up painting the outside tail light housing's Sunday. Decided to go with a 2k Urethane for durability. Not a show quality job by any stretch of the imagination, but definitely as good as the factory did.
Also started recovering the front upper door panels (Legendary) from Classic Industries. Ran out of glue so was only able to finish the passenger side. Also replaced the window seals.
Also started recovering the front upper door panels (Legendary) from Classic Industries. Ran out of glue so was only able to finish the passenger side. Also replaced the window seals.
70chall440
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Nice work!
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Well I tore the front suspension apart. Got some parts on order. Also placed an order with Resto-Rick for some quasmolie paint.
The driver's side was pretty bad. Definitely was not driveable. The strut rod was missing the spacer between the bushings and was bent. The shock was bent and all the bushings and ball joints were trash. On the plus side the frame rails are beautiful. Also the k member is pretty beat up. At some point the car was driven into or over something.
The drivers side lower control arm was replaced at some point with 69 b body and they hacked the sway bar mount off of it. They just left the sway bar dangle from its mounts on the k member. The passenger side was disconnected from the control arm. I had bought some 70 and up b&e control arms off Ebay a few years back. Which they had their own set of issues. But I decided to pick the best ones out of the 2 set's. I took the strut rods and control arms to work. I straightened the strut rods and welded up a crack in the driver's side lower control arm. And since the sway bar mounting hole was hogged out, I welded back up to a 5/8 like it was originally.
I've decided to rebuild my own calipers. I know you can get replacements, but I just want the experience. Hope it doesn't bite me in the ***. Got a rebuild kit on order from Classic Industries for the calipers. Comes with new pistons, pins, seals and ect.
I blasted most of everything. Still need to blast the passenger side caliper and bracket.
The driver's side was pretty bad. Definitely was not driveable. The strut rod was missing the spacer between the bushings and was bent. The shock was bent and all the bushings and ball joints were trash. On the plus side the frame rails are beautiful. Also the k member is pretty beat up. At some point the car was driven into or over something.
The drivers side lower control arm was replaced at some point with 69 b body and they hacked the sway bar mount off of it. They just left the sway bar dangle from its mounts on the k member. The passenger side was disconnected from the control arm. I had bought some 70 and up b&e control arms off Ebay a few years back. Which they had their own set of issues. But I decided to pick the best ones out of the 2 set's. I took the strut rods and control arms to work. I straightened the strut rods and welded up a crack in the driver's side lower control arm. And since the sway bar mounting hole was hogged out, I welded back up to a 5/8 like it was originally.
I've decided to rebuild my own calipers. I know you can get replacements, but I just want the experience. Hope it doesn't bite me in the ***. Got a rebuild kit on order from Classic Industries for the calipers. Comes with new pistons, pins, seals and ect.
I blasted most of everything. Still need to blast the passenger side caliper and bracket.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Well the suspension upgrade has snowballed out of control.
I made a cart for the driveline and removed it last weekend. The cart cost me around $50 to make. I used HSS 1 1/4" tubing that I got from work. Along with the plate. Worked just fine. I was a little nervous lifting the body up 5 feet in the air, but I'm confident in saying that this is how I will do it from now on. I did have to remove the engine mount bolts and lift the engine a few inches off the k frame so I could remove the passenger side header. To allow the engine to pass through the inner fenders.
But other than that, it worked pretty slick.
I made a cart for the driveline and removed it last weekend. The cart cost me around $50 to make. I used HSS 1 1/4" tubing that I got from work. Along with the plate. Worked just fine. I was a little nervous lifting the body up 5 feet in the air, but I'm confident in saying that this is how I will do it from now on. I did have to remove the engine mount bolts and lift the engine a few inches off the k frame so I could remove the passenger side header. To allow the engine to pass through the inner fenders.
But other than that, it worked pretty slick.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Well I have Covid-19. Got it from work. Here's what happened prior to the covid.
After I pulled out the engine and trans, I completely dismantled the 440. It was not good. I new it was full of sludge, but way worse than I expected. Once I got it apart I was starting to realize that I was in for a rebuild most definitely.
After dropping the whole mess off at my local machine shop and I waited. Optimistically I thought a good cleaning and a .030 bore would fix it right up. Boy was I wrong. The machinist said this was the worst pile of **** anyone has ever brought him. He had to vat it twice and after he pulled it out of the jet washer, he noticed not 1 but to cracks in the lifter Valley. Both being 9 inches long. The shop owner said I have to find another block.
.
Here is the replacement engine.
After my quarantine is up I can hopefully get this built and have it ready for this spring.
After I pulled out the engine and trans, I completely dismantled the 440. It was not good. I new it was full of sludge, but way worse than I expected. Once I got it apart I was starting to realize that I was in for a rebuild most definitely.
After dropping the whole mess off at my local machine shop and I waited. Optimistically I thought a good cleaning and a .030 bore would fix it right up. Boy was I wrong. The machinist said this was the worst pile of **** anyone has ever brought him. He had to vat it twice and after he pulled it out of the jet washer, he noticed not 1 but to cracks in the lifter Valley. Both being 9 inches long. The shop owner said I have to find another block.
.
Here is the replacement engine.
After my quarantine is up I can hopefully get this built and have it ready for this spring.
Just read through your thread. Nice project you got going on there! How hard was it to do the headliner?
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