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HID or LED headlights without installing relays?

Here's the relay wiring.

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The note about ground was to say if ground is bad it will ground through the light and can not when a relay is used to explain possible reason for not working proberly
 
If you buy LED get Cree LEDs. Cree is the latest technology in LED lighting and are much brighter than the old style LEDs.
 
Might want to look up Slant Six Dan. On ForAbodies only, or Google. He's a genius with wiring. Bought my relay kit from him. It included 3 relays for my 4 headlight setup. If anyone can answer your question, i think it would be him.
 
With my obvious limitations with doing electrical work, I have hesitated to add relays after the first attempt. The headlight doors must add some complexity to the mix because when I attempted the relay conversion in 2013, I never cut into the wires leading to the door motor.
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I just went back and read from my pile of notebooks for the car. April 2013. The headlights came on but would not go off unless I switched on the high beams. The headlight doors are supposed to only open by the switch with the ignition power ON. They did it at any time but once, the lights were on while the switch was OFF and the doors would not shut until I hit the dimmer switch for high beams again.
If someone has experience with the unique 1970 Charger design with electric headlight doors, I'd consider adding the relays. Otherwise, I'm going with something that allows the use of stock wiring.
7 years later... I did the same thing a long time ago, 70 charger as well and I still have this exact behavior. Finally decided to fix it. Do you remember what you did to fix it, of you fixed it? Thanks.. still cruising through all these posts.
 
The wiring is simple ... if you understand wiring !!!

In a case where headlight doors are in use (which I have no idea about their workings) I'd use the original wiring to power the doors but rather than also powering the headlights I'd branch off of there to trigger the relay. This takes the heavy current draw off of the headlight switch. From there the relay wiring is simple ... heavy gauge right from the battery into the relay and heavy gauge out to the lights.
 
Here's a really good simple diagram to wire a set of headlights. For the headlight doors you would use the stock unmodified circuit. These mods can all be made forward of the battery - no need to mess around under the dash or with the bulkhead connector, just snip the high and low beam wires up front and hook them to trigger the relays. Your headlight doors will be a totally seperate circuit - unaffected by the relay mods.

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Here's a really good simple diagram to wire a set of headlights. For the headlight doors you would use the stock unmodified circuit. These mods can all be made forward of the battery - no need to mess around under the dash or with the bulkhead connector, just snip the high and low beam wires up front and hook them to trigger the relays. Your headlight doors will be a totally seperate circuit - unaffected by the relay mods.

View attachment 1719602
Thanks guys! It's been so long since I did this originally but this looks familiar. Going to go through and fix it
 
7 years later... I did the same thing a long time ago, 70 charger as well and I still have this exact behavior. Finally decided to fix it. Do you remember what you did to fix it, of you fixed it? Thanks.. still cruising through all these posts.
I replaced the factory in dash "concealed headlamp relay" with a Bosch relay. The stock relay was leaking trace amounts of voltage, just enough to trigger the relays at the wrong time.

READ through this one:
Headlight relays on a car with concealed headlights
 
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