hideaway headlight set up on 74 charger question

[bugsydog]

once I have the grille and mock it up ill definitely post pics...im sure I have more questions with install

 

[coronet1965]

My dad was able to install hideaways on his 74 back in the 90s. I'm sure he would be happy to answer any questions you may have.

 

[E-Body]

You can keep the same 73 or 74 headlight brackets becuz ur bumper sticks out 1" you only need to put 71 or 72 buckets if your sinking in ur bumper 1"

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Actually not needed, but maybe just better. Several ppl made this conversion ( including a 72 owner ) and didn't need to replace the headlight brackets. It still fits, a bit tighter, but still fits. If he made it on a 72 it means on a 73/74 with fillers removed will also still fits.

 

[analog70]

And the electrical part... this is a diagram I made LOOOONG time ago and has been used in several places

View attachment 919789

This diagram is quite helpful. Excuse my ignorance but I temporarily rigged the set up for testing purposes (5 prong style) and found with the headlights off, power remained to the “close” and vice versa with on and “open” positions. Consequently the motor stays on past open/close range.

The breaker is what I am understanding would be a self resetting type which would cut power either direction to prevent damage and shut motor function off (I wired temporarily w in line fuse rather than breaker). If the lack of breaker is my issue what size amperage is correct for the headlight motor?

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yeap… one of the wires will remain hot as far ign key is properly sourcing the circuit . If lights off the closed position wire remains hot. If lights on, then the open wire. Internal gears on motor get tabs to open circuits to the motor and cut off the power internally.

breaker is the safety system in case points don’t get cut off the power by accident.

never have measured the headlight motor load requirement. Will also depend on how much traction requires to lift up the doors. So greased, freely move will help on get less load requirements by the motor, but as far I remember the breaker is rated at 15 amps, so I guess the motor must be on 8-12 amps requirement?

breakers are still available thought. I would get it from the beginning

 

[analog70]

Yeap… one of the wires will remain hot as far ign key is properly sourcing the circuit . If lights off the closed position wire remains hot. If lights on, then the open wire. Internal gears on motor get tabs to open circuits to the motor and cut off the power internally.

breaker is the safety system in case points don’t get cut off the power by accident.

never have measured the headlight motor load requirement. Will also depend on how much traction requires to lift up the doors. So greased, freely move will help on get less load requirements by the motor, but as far I remember the breaker is rated at 15 amps, so I guess the motor must be on 8-12 amps requirement?

breakers are still available thought. I would get it from the beginning

Again thanks for the great info. Given the info provided then I presume the internal gears/points are failing as the motor is not cutting power internally. I will install low amp breaker to see if this will cut power appropriately until I am able to rebuild/replace motor.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Wire will keep energized (while ign switch allows that)… the cut off power is internal. You can’t check for that. If you note motor want to keep spinning then the points inside are failing. Breaker will cut the power THEN the wire will loose the power by the breaker action