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high deck 383

9moes

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hey guys
Got a high deck 383 out of 59 chysler .Has anybody ever heard of or built this motor,are there any stroke kits for it .Can some of its parts be put in other blocks (400) if you have built one of these or know of some one who has please post it , just wondering what its good for.
 
The bore is only 4.031". To even get to a 4.250 bore you'd need to bore it .219" over. I guess the pin location would probably be the same as a 440 so it would be feasable that you could have a 4" bore piston made oversized but I am sure they'd be costly. Best bet is to let the scrap yard give you whatever it will bring and find a 440 or a low deck 383 or 400. Small bore, long stroke, long rod. It was a truck motor. A good one though. I guess if you wanted a really different and expensive motor, you could do it.
 
Would the crank fit in a 400 block with different rods something like a 451
 
The RB 383 is a very very underbored 440. Same stroke, just small bore. You'd have to machine the sh!t out of it to get it to a 440. God only knows if they came forged or cast in that motor, but should be same as any 440 crank. Maybe post it on evilbay - they're pretty rare (not very valuable though) but you might be able to give it a good home in a car it belongs in rather than just selling it for scrap.
 
Would the crank fit in a 400 block with different rods something like a 451

Yeah, I think it's the same crank as the 440. I KNOW it's the same stroke. It's probably a steel crank too. Should be the 440 length rods, it IS an RB after all. That's usin your knoggin. You can find a 400 block and you're on the way. I would verify all of that first with casting numbers, but they should be the same stuff. Plenty of online sources for casting numbers.
 
That's about the beginning of time for the B RB engines. It would certainly run down the road OK if you wanted to use it but if you want a power house just get a 440 or build the 400 in to a 451. I imagine finding pistons and rings for the RB 383 would be an adventure.
 
That's about the beginning of time for the B RB engines. It would certainly run down the road OK if you wanted to use it but if you want a power house just get a 440 or build the 400 in to a 451. I imagine finding pistons and rings for the RB 383 would be an adventure.

Ross would do it. For 800-1000 bucks. LOL
 
On the crankshaft, the flange for the flexplate/flywheel is a different length from the back of the engine. They made the change from model year 1961 to 1962. In 1962 they started using the torqueflite with the cast on bellhousing and before that the bellhousing could be unbolted from the tranny. At the same time they changed the crankshaft.
 
Well that settles it I think - boat anchor. Though i stil think there is someone out there needing that exact motor.
 
Well that settles it I think - boat anchor. Though i stil think there is someone out there needing that exact motor.

I think you still gotta good set of rods out of it. I thought I remembered that about the crank but I was not sure so I didn't say anything.
 
On the crankshaft, the flange for the flexplate/flywheel is a different length from the back of the engine. They made the change from model year 1961 to 1962. In 1962 they started using the torqueflite with the cast on bellhousing and before that the bellhousing could be unbolted from the tranny. At the same time they changed the crankshaft.

Oh yeah, that must be a carry over from the early hemi. Those had the flange farther away from the block too.
 
Oh yeah, that must be a carry over from the early hemi. Those had the flange farther away from the block too.

Only the industrial ones. Not all of them did. I gotta '56 331 in the shop that does not.
 
Oh come ON. There's stuff you could use it for. Make one of these:

(!!NO!! This is NOT effin' MINE, mKAY?)

http://spokane.craigslist.org/grd/3232795744.html

Gas Compressor Arc Tig Welder Generator - $400 (Spokane South Hill)
Date: 2012-08-27, 10:33AM PDT

This is a one of a kind unit that you will never see again. I built this unit myself and have used it for the past two years for anything from filling tires to swapping out and welding new axles on a Jeep CJ. The unit is powered by a 6.5hp horizontal shaft four stroke pull start gas engine which is belted by dual pulleys to either side of the unit. It is muffled to a nice quite working level through a large exhaust pipe and Geo muffler; no annoying loud little engine noise while you are working. On the left side there is a 145psi twin cylinder oil lubricated air cooled air compressor pump which pumps a steady 10.0 cubic feet per minute at 90psi; enough to run any normal shop air tool including grinders. The compressed air is piped from the compressor through a copper pipe (coiled for cooling) to a pilot unloader checkvalve combo and then into an 11 gallon air tank. The unloader valve has a muffler to limit noise when bypassing the tank and regulates pressure at an adjustable level. There is an idler pulley on the compressor belt with a T-handle to facilitate starting and clutching the compressor on once the engine is running. Attached to the air tank is a liquid filled air pressure gauge and twin standard female air line connectors. On the right side of the unit sits the welder and generator combo which is made from a modified 100amp Cadillac alternator. The alternator is straight belt driven off another pulley from the engine. The alternator is connected to two plugs on the back of the unit; one for welding and one standard wall outlet. At full throttle, the unit puts out 120volts modified sign wave power perfect for running any electric brushed motor power tool. I have drilled a 1/2 inch hole in steel with my electric drill using this unit and cut 1/4 inch steel with a Makita electric grinder.
There are two different welding units usable with the unit that are interchangeable with brass plugs. The first is a standard arc stick welder perfect for welding any job up to 1/2 inch steel plate. The second is a detachable TIG welding torch, Argonne gas bottle, gas line, and regulator. The TIG torch has multiple tungsten rod sizes and gas cups. The amperage for either welding type is turned on and variable through a rheostat on the back of the unit. The unit also comes with an adjustable automatic welding helmet.The rheostat simply varies the direct voltage to the field on the full fielded alternator. The power for the alternator is provided through a small 12 volt farm battery on the back of the unit. For extended welding or generating, you can simply attach a car battery with jumper cables or just run the unit off your trucks power if you keep it in the back of you truck for work like I did.
As you can see, this is a one of a kind all in one unit that is capable of every kind of work. Use it for small jobs around the house or mount it in the back of your work truck for a great utility upgrade. It cost me $542.00 (have receipts) and a lot of time to make this unit; I am moving in February so I have to part with this beauty. I am asking $400 obo for the unit. My number is 309-369-2220 and yes that is 309 not 509 area code. Come and get it!

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er maybe?

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......................and there's always.................

you-think-a-hemi-is-loud-how-about-a-hemi-powered-air-raid-siren.jpg
 

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rb383

Thanks guys for the info.feel like i already got a mopar museum.Guess i'll put the golden lion in the shed by the 58 392 and the 61 361.Maybe one day i'll find something to do with these motors. thanks again
 
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