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High idle?

janbanan

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If I do a burnout with my 440 it gets a high idle. It has nothing to do about throttle getting stuck. If I let the engine cool down for an hour or so it´s fine again.Could it be sucking air somehow?A friend of mine told me it came some black smoke when it happened and that would mean to much fuel? I have tried with startergas around carburator and intake but nothing happens.If you have some ideas what it could be I would really appreciate some help.
 
Sticking needle and seat maybe ? My last coronet had that problem. Would drive around with no problem, when I gave it a full throttle run the secondary needle would stick open and flood the carb out. Replaced it and never had trouble again.
 
Sticking needle and seat maybe ? My last coronet had that problem. Would drive around with no problem, when I gave it a full throttle run the secondary needle would stick open and flood the carb out. Replaced it and never had trouble again.

Well....my carb have never flooded and a sticking needle would only change the level of petrol....I think? But I will check it out.
 
Well....my carb have never flooded and a sticking needle would only change the level of petrol....I think? But I will check it out.

Too much fuel or vacuum leak. If it tends to load up then another indication of too much gas to go along with the sooty exhaust. Do some carb tuning, check plugs etc.
 
Probably an ignition realted deal. Sticky advance weights, a sticky vacuum advance... Something like that. What have you done in terms of timing curves and the ignition components?
 
I have MSD electronic ignition, vacuum is plugged. I think you are right I probably need to tune my holley.....I spent this evening with tuning instructions on youtube....it´s a lot of things going on in a holley carburator!!! Could it have something to do with accelerator pump since it appear every time I hit the floor? Engine is working perfect in normal speed but this appear when I want to have some fun.
 
How high of an idle are we talking about here ? Have you pulled over while this happens and took the air cleaner off, with engine running of course, and looked for anything obvious ? Throttle return spring angle good ?
 
Doubt it. Accelerator pump adjustments beyond setting the arm clearance are more towards the end of the tuning bit. What distributor do you have?
 
How high of an idle are we talking about here ? Have you pulled over while this happens and took the air cleaner off, with engine running of course, and looked for anything obvious ? Throttle return spring angle good ?

Yes I have done that but as far as I can see, everything looks normal. I haven´t checked exactly but my guess is about 1500.

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Doubt it. Accelerator pump adjustments beyond setting the arm clearance are more towards the end of the tuning bit. What distributor do you have?

20160322_165240.jpg20160322_165417.jpg

I have worked on harleys a lot but I´m not so experienced on musclecars. Thanks to this great forum I learn something new every day.
I don´t know what kind of distributor it is but maybe you can tell from the attached pictures?
 
What is the base idle speed on your engine?

Ok - looks like the MP conversion unit because it's too shiney to be an original one. That's the up-side. The down side is to really look at it you'll need to remove it. That's not a big deal though. Take off the distributor cap, and use a Sharpie marker to mark the position of the ignition rotor's tip on the edge of the housing. Then make a single line that goes from the housing to the block on the base of the distributor. Don't make the mark where the hold down bracket is. Then unbolt the hold down, unplug the wire connection, and pull out the distributor carefully.

Next - look down a the plate that sits under the rotor and the reluctor (the 8 pointed "star" thing). It will have a couple holes in it about 3/8" or larger. Shine a light down there and you'll see the advance weights and springs. You may need to spin the shaft slowly to see both weights and both springs. You want to look at the springs. There should be one heavier than the other - visibly thicker and more coils in it. Also, you'll want to spin the shaft until you see one of the slots of the advance plate through one of those holes. When it's visible, hold the shaft, and spin the reluctor counter-clockwise lightly. It should move 10-30° and you should see the pin move in the slot. Check both weights that way. Snap a couple clear shots of the springs through those holes and post them. My impression is you have two very light springs in there rather than one light and one medium. The engine is turning fast enough that it's advancing when it should not be. When you shut the car off, the springs pull the advance out, and the rpm drops to base idle. If it's just a spring you need you can buy them, or I can send you one.
 
What is the base idle speed on your engine?

Ok - looks like the MP conversion unit because it's too shiney to be an original one. That's the up-side. The down side is to really look at it you'll need to remove it. That's not a big deal though. Take off the distributor cap, and use a Sharpie marker to mark the position of the ignition rotor's tip on the edge of the housing. Then make a single line that goes from the housing to the block on the base of the distributor. Don't make the mark where the hold down bracket is. Then unbolt the hold down, unplug the wire connection, and pull out the distributor carefully.

Next - look down a the plate that sits under the rotor and the reluctor (the 8 pointed "star" thing). It will have a couple holes in it about 3/8" or larger. Shine a light down there and you'll see the advance weights and springs. You may need to spin the shaft slowly to see both weights and both springs. You want to look at the springs. There should be one heavier than the other - visibly thicker and more coils in it. Also, you'll want to spin the shaft until you see one of the slots of the advance plate through one of those holes. When it's visible, hold the shaft, and spin the reluctor counter-clockwise lightly. It should move 10-30° and you should see the pin move in the slot. Check both weights that way. Snap a couple clear shots of the springs through those holes and post them. My impression is you have two very light springs in there rather than one light and one medium. The engine is turning fast enough that it's advancing when it should not be. When you shut the car off, the springs pull the advance out, and the rpm drops to base idle. If it's just a spring you need you can buy them, or I can send you one.

Sorry for my late answer but something really cool happened this weekend, Richard Rawlings from Gasmonkey bought a custombike i have built!

I try to have idle on 800 but it´s a bit low when engine is cold. I buy your theory about the advanceweights but sometimes I need to wait for an hour or so until idle is back on normal?I will check it out but I´m a bit scared of distributors because I got them 180 degrees wrong a couple of times.I will be rather busy this week but I really need your advice so I will check it out asap.
 
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