Holley Double Pumper Gas problems??

[ckessel]

Did you get your kit from Holley? Real live Holley brand not a generic kit from a parts store? One sign of a generic kit being used is that your bowl was stripped. Generic kits, especially the ones that use a big brass jam nut to tighten the unit, are off by one thread on the thread pitch leading to stripped out bowls. The gaskets that are supplied may be cork based, which shrink, or incorrect paper type, both of which can have the holes off leading to poor running. Another thing to check is lay a straight edge across the main body where the metering block and throttle plate attach to the base[ minus the parts and gaskets]. See if its warped. If so, here is another problem area causing poor running. File or machine the three surfaces flat if needed. For awhile Holley was getting cheap on the amount of screws that attach the throttle plate to the main body. Its set up for 8, but they only put in 6. If yours is like this, add in the other 2. Also, any cough back can pop or screw up a power valve. The valve may hold vacume but will still not operate properly. You can add a check valve to it to prevent this. Holley and some others offer this or you can do your own for free. This is something I learned about long ago so its an easy deal to do. If you floats are toast, get the brass ones. The nitrophyl units don't get along with ANY alcohol which is in our gas even when your are not aware of it. Another thing may be that your metering block has junk in it that cannot be removed by anything. I dealt with this for a couple of years on my sixpack. Cleaned it, run fine for 10 minutes, then crappy again. Put the unit in an ultrasonic cleaner and OMG, LOOK AT ALL THE FECES COMING OUT! That made it last for 30 minutes. Finally replaced the block, end of discussion. Another thing on filters. No filter made will stop rust from getting in and plugging things up. The only thing that will stop the rust, which is in your tank or the one at the station, is to put a magnet on the filter. If you are running a metal inline unit, find a FWD Mopar trans pan magnet. Very strong and has a hole in the center which will fit over the filter outlet.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Did you get your kit from Holley? Real live Holley brand not a generic kit from a parts store? One sign of a generic kit being used is that your bowl was stripped. Generic kits, especially the ones that use a big brass jam nut to tighten the unit, are off by one thread on the thread pitch leading to stripped out bowls. The gaskets that are supplied may be cork based, which shrink, or incorrect paper type, both of which can have the holes off leading to poor running. Another thing to check is lay a straight edge across the main body where the metering block and throttle plate attach to the base[ minus the parts and gaskets]. See if its warped. If so, here is another problem area causing poor running. File or machine the three surfaces flat if needed. For awhile Holley was getting cheap on the amount of screws that attach the throttle plate to the main body. Its set up for 8, but they only put in 6. If yours is like this, add in the other 2. Also, any cough back can pop or screw up a power valve. The valve may hold vacume but will still not operate properly. You can add a check valve to it to prevent this. Holley and some others offer this or you can do your own for free. This is something I learned about long ago so its an easy deal to do. If you floats are toast, get the brass ones. The nitrophyl units don't get along with ANY alcohol which is in our gas even when your are not aware of it. Another thing may be that your metering block has junk in it that cannot be removed by anything. I dealt with this for a couple of years on my sixpack. Cleaned it, run fine for 10 minutes, then crappy again. Put the unit in an ultrasonic cleaner and OMG, LOOK AT ALL THE FECES COMING OUT! That made it last for 30 minutes. Finally replaced the block, end of discussion. Another thing on filters. No filter made will stop rust from getting in and plugging things up. The only thing that will stop the rust, which is in your tank or the one at the station, is to put a magnet on the filter. If you are running a metal inline unit, find a FWD Mopar trans pan magnet. Very strong and has a hole in the center which will fit over the filter outlet.

Ahh, thank you very much. The throttle plate has all 8. I did buy the kit straight from Holley. I've been thinking about buying new metering plates, just cause it still doesn't run just right. I there a specific one I should look for? Can one be too performance oreinted or not enough?

Last question, Can the fuel pressure effect how my car runs? The guys earlier suggested getting a pressure regulator. Good investment?

I've been trying to add a magnet, but cant find one that will fit the filter. I was thinkging about just putting it near the bottom of the tank.

Thanks for the info!

 

[dieseldazzle]

Find the correct one for your application but there you go:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67166c?seid=srese1&gclid=COvRmqzIpscCFUoXHwodEggGhA

 

[Burns69RT]

Yes. Holley flood themselves out when they have over 7psi of fuel pressure. Likely what's happening to yours. I suggest getting one and you need a fuel pressure gauge to set the pressure.

 

[furyus]

Be warned. Those 2 extra screws in the base plate were left out of the carb because when the carb is installed, there's nothing to keep them from falling into the engine. The others are captured by the intake. I know this from a bad experience.

 

[bm02tj]

If the metering block is warped PM me and I will tell you how to straighten

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Yes. Holley flood themselves out when they have over 7psi of fuel pressure. Likely what's happening to yours. I suggest getting one and you need a fuel pressure gauge to set the pressure.

Just ordered a line with a fuel pressure gauge.

Be warned. Those 2 extra screws in the base plate were left out of the carb because when the carb is installed, there's nothing to keep them from falling into the engine. The others are captured by the intake. I know this from a bad experience.

So take off two screws?

I'm starting to think that another problem is the fuel pump? My fuel filter never fills up, then once I've idled for awhile, it drains and the car stalls. Takes awhile to get it pumping again? It's a new 130 GPH Pump.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Alright, I bought a fuel pressure gauge. Dropped the think and it starts out at 2 PSI, that being said when I started the car it sat around 9 PSI with the fuel filter full, then later dropped down to 7 PSI and the fuel filter was slowly draining and bubbling.

I will go return the gauge, and buy a new one with a fuel regulator. Right now, without ordering a regulator I Can get a MR. Gasket one? What do you guys think about that? Does 1-6 PSI, guys recommend no more than 6 on Holleys?

 

[Burns69RT]

I have a Holley regulator it was like $35 or so from oriely's. And always set them to 5.5 psi

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Only Napa, Advanced, and Auto here.

I read something about return feeds? Is that necessary?

Also, you wouldn't happen to have a part number for that holley? (there's like 30 different types :angry9

 

[Burns69RT]

Advanced should have it. And I don't have the part #, not necessary but it's a good thing to plum and it keeps the fuel cooler.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Alright, Found out the problem. I put the pressure gauge on there and it would fluctuate between 4-7 PSI. I had no idea what caused that. I purged the lines no crud.

Guess what happened today? (Fuel pump failed) Guess that was the problem all along. I have a electric pump im going to hook up. Ordered the holley regulator and it should get here tomorrow.

I'll let you know how this goes, thanks for stickin with me @Burns69RT. I Appreciate it!

 

[Burns69RT]

No prob man. Let me know how it goes