Hood scoop

[Mark1972]

My 1970 Plymouth Satellite needs more fresh air to the engine compartment. I can't justify $2000+cad for a custom fibreglass hood. Below is a picture of the car, along with a close up of the hood, top and underneath. I love the A12 style scoop, but it wasn't used in 1970. I believe the Air Grabber was used. So I need some direction here. If I decide on the A12 or the Air Grabber, it will result in me cutting my hood, and installing the new scoop. What reinforcing will be required to make sure my hood remains structurally sound? The Air Grabber looks smaller, and one of the reasons for doing this mod will be installing a full size 14x3" air filter, instead of the 14x2" I'm running currently. What other factors am I missing on doing this mod? Will an A12 look really out of place on my '70? Thanks all.

 

[Don67Satellite]

It's your car, put whatever scoop you want on it, if you want go that far. I understand your pain for hood clearance.

If it's just some more airflow to the carb that you want, throw one of the ultraflow tops on the air cleaner.

(The sign is for the meat sticks that almost feel a need to treat cars like a petting zoo at cruise nights.)

That's 14x3 on a AVS2 with Torker II intake, hood closes fine.

 

[33 IMP]

I always urge anyone who wants a scoop to consider a glass hood with the scoop of your choice, and store the paint-matching virgin steel hood.
I made the mistake of cutting up a nice 62 hood for a scoop. It looks okay (dart raisin bran scoop) but if I could do it again.... I wouldn't.
That said.... you could consider a cowl induction scoop, basically a taller roadrunner bump. A 70 runner (satellite) is the only Mopar a cowl can look right on, imo.
Also, I think a A12 scoop looks good on most any mopar.

 

[33 IMP]

If your car was mine, it'd get a 3" cowl hinged glass rr hood.

 

[sam dupont]

I like sleepers and loath to cut holes that show. I have always liked some version of the W-30 solution or drawing from the cowl, like a Daytona.

 

[sam dupont]

I always urge anyone who wants a scoop to consider a glass hood with the scoop of your choice, and store the paint-matching virgin steel hood.
I made the mistake of cutting up a nice 62 hood for a scoop. It looks okay (dart raisin bran scoop) but if I could do it again.... I wouldn't.
That said.... you could consider a cowl induction scoop, basically a taller roadrunner bump. A 70 runner (satellite) is the only Mopar a cowl can look right on, imo.
Also, I think a A12 scoop looks good on most any mopar.

My Dad had a black 1964 IH half ton pickup. In 1969, he let a friend of mine and me pin stripe it, update the radio to a Kraco, and put woodgrain vinyl on the dash. JC Whitney sold a 6-pack scoop, and he thought about it, but I couldn't get him to go for it. I still think the the lines work

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I believe the 70 air grabber was a different hood. It would be a experiment to make it fit on your satellite hood. Suppose it could be done but the air grabber hood is available as a repop...or at least it used to be. your car would look great with this on it. We did the same on our 72 satellite. but it was a bubble w a door that bolted on in 71-72. Possibly a 70 Roadrunner hood would be a simple air grabber upgrade. I think they just cut a hole and have a reinforcement plate on the RR GTX hood? Haven't done a 70 so?

 

[493 Mike]

I went with the glass hood and separate scoop for my 66. Now, for the last 25/30 years I have 2 good 66 steel hoods in the rafters? The scoop I made for the 65 is the skin off my original hood (with the structure rotted out) with angles to match the factory angles. I too did not want a scoop but, I wasn't about to starve my 540 with a small air cleaner setup. Note the added reinforcement-not attached to the skin. The scoop is glued on by the way.
Mike

Mike

 

[Mark1972]

It's your car, put whatever scoop you want on it, if you want go that far. I understand your pain for hood clearance.

If it's just some more airflow to the carb that you want, throw one of the ultraflow tops on the air cleaner.

(The sign is for the meat sticks that almost feel a need to treat cars like a petting zoo at cruise nights.)

That's 14x3 on a AVS2 with Torker II intake, hood closes fine.

View attachment 1517374

I've got a 440, with a Performer RPM intake, 1/2" phenolic spacer, and 800 AVS2, and the biggest drop air cleaner base that will clear the linkage, and you can still see the scratches from the nut, which has broken off both wings.

 

[Mark1972]

If your car was mine, it'd get a 3" cowl hinged glass rr hood.

I've contacted Glasstek in Illinois. Do you have someone else in mind who can do a glass hood, where I can still use my hinges and latch(no hood pins)?

 

[topside]

I don't see where a street car needs more fresh air, especially if it means cutting up a nice hood.
The aftermarket "ram-air" setups that mimic the Olds style would work, if a drop-base & 3" filter won't work in that application.
Aerodynamically, cars are better off venting the hood, which also cuts underhood temps: BTDT.
I don't mind cowl hoods & agree they look fine on a '70 Plymouth B. If AAR fiberglass is still in business, IIRC they used to sell hinged versions.
Had an AAR hood on a Duster and it was a nice piece. Also try Harwood; some of the Unlimited stuff I've seen was pretty rude, but maybe they got better.

 

[33 IMP]

I've contacted Glasstek in Illinois. Do you have someone else in mind who can do a glass hood, where I can still use my hinges and latch(no hood pins)?

Unlimited Fiberglass is local to me, and make both street weight and race weight 70 hoods with built in cowl scoops, from 3 1/2 to 9"tall. (Edit: they also make a stock height rr hood, no air Grabber though)
BUT, they all say they need front hood pins, even the street weight hinge versions. I'm betting the race weight are a lift-off version, just like a real A12 hood..... but probably half the weight.
Unlimited had a very sketchy reputation, but also had a change of ownership, and are now supposed to be putting out much better product.
If I ordered from them, I could inspect before acceptance, and avoid shipping
Unfortunately, you can't do that, and for the foreseeable future, it looks like shipping will never be cheap again.
Maybe just adding a scoop to your hood is a much more financially viable solution.

 

[4speed68rt]

I vote NOT to cut up that nice, 50+ year old (they don't make new ones like that) hood. I am curious why you need more fresh air under the hood?

 

[Don67Satellite]

I've got a 440, with a Performer RPM intake, 1/2" phenolic spacer, and 800 AVS2, and the biggest drop air cleaner base that will clear the linkage, and you can still see the scratches from the nut, which has broken off both wings.

Yeah the Performer RPM is virtually the same height as the Torker II. Try the Edelbrock heat insulator instead, it is more like 1/3" instead of 1/2". I use the Edelbrock base that comes in the 1221 air cleaner to clear the linkage. Not gonna say I have a ton of clearance, but the carb can gulp more air than if I had a solid cover. Something to consider before butchering up a hood or spending a bunch on another. Can run the ultra flow top with your 2", and the wing nut area is recessed on it too.

**EDIT**: put in a pic from today, that's my current clearance. Like I said, not much, but clears the hood.

 

[Mark1972]

I vote NOT to cut up that nice, 50+ year old (they don't make new ones like that) hood. I am curious why you need more fresh air under the hood?

There is a tremendous amount of heat under that hood that I'd like to try to cool off. Between the aluminum heads, intake, and headers, it's crazy. The phenolic spacer helped the heat from sinking into then carb, but with that big hot 440 under there(484hp,565tq on the dyno sheet), I'm willing to do what I have to for more air flow, in addition to the small air filter. There is the open top filter unit, but it will be crushed right up against the hood, and not likely to improve things much. It's not about looks for me. It's about proper air flow and better cooling. I would likely be in tears cutting that hood. I've got no less than a hundred hours getting that thing straight and smooth. I'll contact a couple other glass hood places.

 

[4speed68rt]

You can't "UN-CUT" it. Does it overheat or vapor lock? Go with the fiberglass and save that beautiful hood to put back on there when you are done with it. That is a $10,000 hood, not to mention the value that it adds to the car. No harm no foul... if you don't cut it, somebody can always put it back on. These cars will be around long after we are gone.

 

[Don67Satellite]

There is a tremendous amount of heat under that hood that I'd like to try to cool off. Between the aluminum heads, intake, and headers, it's crazy. The phenolic spacer helped the heat from sinking into then carb, but with that big hot 440 under there(484hp,565tq on the dyno sheet), I'm willing to do what I have to for more air flow, in addition to the small air filter. There is the open top filter unit, but it will be crushed right up against the hood, and not likely to improve things much. It's not about looks for me. It's about proper air flow and better cooling. I would likely be in tears cutting that hood. I've got no less than a hundred hours getting that thing straight and smooth. I'll contact a couple other glass hood places.

If your radiator is keeping the engine cool, and you sorted the heat soak with the carb, then where is the issue?

 

[Mark1972]

If your radiator is keeping the engine cool, and you sorted the heat soak with the carb, then where is the issue?

Unfortunately, the rad is not keeping the engine cool, unless I'm driving at a constant 30mph+. Cold Case 26" with 1.25" tubes. Flowkooler pump. Water wetter. Robert Shaw 180 stat. Derale 19" fan. Now do I believe the fresh air coming in will make a big difference? No, not huge, but something. If I'm doing 50mph for say 30 minutes (2500rpm approx), and come to a stop, in 10 minutes it's hitting 220F. That's in 80F weather. It's been an issue since I got the car.

 

[eldubb440]

Unfortunately, the rad is not keeping the engine cool, unless I'm driving at a constant 30mph+. Cold Case 26" with 1.25" tubes. Flowkooler pump. Water wetter. Robert Shaw 180 stat. Derale 19" fan. Now do I believe the fresh air coming in will make a big difference? No, not huge, but something. If I'm doing 50mph for say 30 minutes (2500rpm approx), and come to a stop, in 10 minutes it's hitting 220F. That's in 80F weather. It's been an issue since I got the car.

I'm a big fan of fresh air intake, but I think you have another issue ......... have you experimented with timing or anything else?

 

[Don67Satellite]

Shroud?