topside
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If you don't have a fan shroud, get one on there - makes a huge difference.
Hood scoop
- Thread starter Mark1972
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Mark1972
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Sorry, yes I have a shroud from Mancini.
Mark1972
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I've not as of yet. I did check it when I got it out of storage in July, and it was still at 35 degrees total, where it always has been.
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I'd also be checking that you have the cooling system burped properly and all air pockets removed. Something going on there.
Rishi
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I think the air grabber is bad-***. It's probably not as good, technically, as the A12 scoop, but it looks pretty cool. Disclosure, I used to drive a 6 barrel air grabber car with 4-10 dana before I wrecked it. It may be something of a gimmick, like when a low-rider jacks up his car driving down the road. But when cruising on the freeway, and another car slowly passes with onlookers checking out the car, nothing seems cooler than watching their faces as I activate the air grabber, and then punch it leaving them in the mirror. I'm still really sorry I wrecked your car, Jay. I've made few boneheaded moves bigger than that since.
davek
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fan should only be 1/3 in shroud. It does not matter how close the fan is to radiator.
bearman
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I would be curious about the rad hose collapsing. Just a thought but I have to agree buy a hood don't screw up that beautiful one you have. Another thought would be pulley size on the water pump is it oem. Is it the correct one Another thought.
Thermostat, radiator and shroud. Something not functioning correctly. Flex fan or fan clutch maybe. A hole in the hood isn't going to make a difference.
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I made my 70 RR into an A12 car that never was. I finished this particular car over 10 years ago. I was able to get a 6bbl hood for the 70 style.
Mark1972
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Using spacers I've got that fan as close to 1/3 in the shroud as I can get. That was a point that was stressed to me two years ago when I bought the shroud. Thanks for making the point though.
Mark1972
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I check the rad hoses when it's both hot and cold, and haven't seen any collapsing. The pulley size is OEM. Both the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. I've been told not to overspeed the water pump as too much velocity can actually hurt cooling as the fluid doesn't stay in the radiator long enough for it to be cooled.
Mark1972
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The engine had a clutch fan originally. It measured 20.5". The 440 was taken out of a 1977 New Yorker. I ran it for a while but couldn't get a shroud to fit it, so went to a 19" Derale solid fan, and a shroud from Mancini which fit up perfect.
davek
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Ive bought 2 Derale fans and they just never worked for me. I do have a flex fan on the Bee but plan to go back to factory setup.
It sounds like you need to move more air when you are standing still. I would try a different fan blade set up. You said Derale fan, but there is different ones. The ones with the rigid tapered fins didn't seem to work as well as the flex fan, for me. Big difference. The scoop wont do much good when you are sitting still. 195 thermostat might help as well. Hold the coolant in the radiator longer, pull more air through the radiator.
Mark1972
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I could try a 19" flex fan. I own a 17", but that was for the old 318. I could also grab a 195 stat as well. To be honest, the poor car, which just came out of storage the beginning of July, will be going back into storage in another 4-6 weeks. So we'll see what I get done this year. If I'm busy over winter(I'm a contractor)I could treat myself to a new stat, fan, and fibreglass hood, lol.
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I agree with 68 R/T. You need to draw more air thru the radiator, assuming the radiator isn't plugged or too small.
You need more fan blade, more pitch, more water pump speed (there are LONG heated discussions here and on A-bodies regarding cooling theory).and maybe seal the radiator to the core support,and the shroud to the radiator, so air can't bypass the radiator/fan combo.
I'm running a plastic (supposedly flex) fan on my bracket car that I know costs power. But it keeps my engine cool, and I need that more than the horspower.
You need more fan blade, more pitch, more water pump speed (there are LONG heated discussions here and on A-bodies regarding cooling theory).and maybe seal the radiator to the core support,and the shroud to the radiator, so air can't bypass the radiator/fan combo.
I'm running a plastic (supposedly flex) fan on my bracket car that I know costs power. But it keeps my engine cool, and I need that more than the horspower.
davek
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17 inch fan is to small
Mark1972
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Yeah. As I mentioned, it was for the 318 that was in the car originally. I can order a 19, which will fit the shroud properly.
Mark1972
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So regarding the best fan for my application, I went to the source and spoke to a tech at Flex-a-Lite, and they a had a couple of interesting options for better cooling than the Derale 19" rigid fan that I currently have. The two options are below. The 19" flex fan was the option I would think is best, and the had the most amount of blade pitch to promote more air flow at idle. The 18" nylon fan was in his opinion better at flowing air, but had no documents to prove that. It was his opinion based on people who had swapped out a flex fan for the nylon unit, and had better cooling. I'd love your opinions.
19-inch Silver Flex Fan
18-inch Nylon Fan
19-inch Silver Flex Fan
18-inch Nylon Fan
I vote for the 19" Flex fan, as long as it fits in your shroud opening. The nylon fan looks cool, and probably works good, but doesn't look right. I might try it on a race car, but not on a Mopar. We all know the "good old" Flex fan works good. It looks about like what I have on my car.
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